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The Wines

Syrah (late 1950s-early 1960s) from galet stone covered clay-limestone soils on Les Chassis, Roche-de-Glun, hand harvested crop, destemmed, 50% concrete vat, 50% open oak vat 3-4 week fermentation, twice daily hand punching of cap, pumping overs, malo done in cask, aged 50% 2-5 year 228-litre oak casks, 50% oak vats 24 months (before early 2010s was aged 1/3 each new-1-2 year 228-litre oak casks 12-15 months), unfined, filtered, 10-33,500 b

2018 ()

(casks/large barrel) very dark robe; the bouquet is well rounded, based on crushed blackberries, with black raisin ripeness, definite sun signs. The palate just about keeps its copious nature in check, runs with a fair degree of precision, holds firm tannins that add length. There is sleek oiliness in its texture, and its shape is good for the future, and a gradual evolution. It goes well long, has real depth. From 2022, decant it. 2034-36 Nov 2019

2017

(casks/large barrel) full, dark red; the bouquet has good substance, mixes black olives with agreeable black stone fruits, serves a hint of perfume, violet. The palate is soft and rolling, well filled with attractive richness. This travels well, is a very good Crozes that combines pleasure and genuine, juicy depth, the fruit pleasing. The aftertaste is salted, clear. There is a note of carbonic gas in it. From 2020. 2030-32 Dec 2018

2016 ()

(casks/oak vat) very dark robe. The bouquet is wide, mixes well its core black fruits with the oaking, has enough depth for there to be harmony between the two. There is some grilling and a hint of black olives. The palate weighs in with robust but fluid content, has a pleasing way of going, nice and consecutive. There is good dash in this, and it is well-filled, very long, so can drink with red meats. It’s a genuine, serious 2016 Crozes, an impressive wine. 13.5°. 10,650 b. From mid-2019. 2029-31 Nov 2017

2015

(casks/oak vat) dark, black-tinted robe. The nose is nice and profound, with some style in the black cherry, dark fruit airs. The palate is juicy, and rolls with good quality, clear black fruits and a fine edge of tannins, finishing in dentelle fashion. This has good lift and brightness. There is a thread of carbonic gas through it, and hence a little “sparkle”. A nudge of oak comes through on the aftertaste. Stylish wine. 2028-30 Oct 2016 

2014

(casks/oak vat) shiny, deep dark red robe, black present. The bouquet is broad, and willing, centred on ripe, fat black berry fruit, prune, has a smoky, black coffee element, too. The palate is juicy and enjoyable. This has some scale, and assembles a considered depth, allowing it to drink well with red meats. The length is good and persistent, the finish clear. Has above average weight for a 2014 Crozes red. 13.5°. 12,000 b. €10.20. From late 2016. 2024-26  Oct 2015 

2013

(casks) dark robe. Clear black cherry fruit leads the nose, a second tier air of grilling, towards baked bread, brioche, and nuttiness from some oak. The palate sets off at pace, shows wavy black fruit, with a plump note before a sudden income of tar, a burnt aspect, as its oak closes up the shop rapidly. This needs to fuse. I wonder why the oak rushes out so much. 13°. 30,000 b. From 2017. 2024-26 Jan 2015

2012 ()

(casks) dark, full colour. Curvy black berry fruit aroma, a nose of inviting depth, low-key sweetness, and a nutty crunch from its oaked raising. The palate shows a soaked fruits flavour, the bounty of the southern zone of Crozes, agile tannins, all round and supple. There is a touch of late tar and oak. Has a fat centre, suited to drinking with spaghetti, for instance. Medium-term, upfront, stylish Crozes that is just a little bit tecchie. The oak on the exit is noticeable. From late 2014.  13°. €8.90 ex cellars. 15,000 b. 2021-23  Nov 2013

2011 ()

(casks) dark, shiny robe. Strong reduction on the nose, grilled and oak inside that, while its dark berry fruit has some style and glow about it. The palate offers an ambitious package, involves fluid black berry or cherry fruit, grilled notes, near cedar touches and licorice. Very much cellar-forward wine, its oak very prominent and obvious at the end. Has meaty depth, a savoury aftertaste. A big Crozes that will impress – wait for this, then wait again. From late 2014, and will be doing very well around 2017. 2022-24 Nov 2012

2010

(casks) full, dark colour. Broad nose that resists being imposing, has sunny layers of aroma, black fruits, is round and licorice-like. Great attack, boom boom. The black fruit is alert, very crisp and tangy today, with a saline feel to its late stages. It is settling into being good and drinkable, even refreshing. Bang on what Crozes should serve up. It ends on a little tar, a group of content that underpins the racy fruit. Good balance. The aftertaste is very tarry. Easy drinking, lots of appeal. To 2020-22 Nov 2011

2009 No Rating

(casks) bright, full robe; taint on the nose, yeasty, hollow. Burnt fruit on palate, acrid. Nov 2010

2008

plum, quite full red robe; grilled touches on the nose, savoury red fruit with them. Blackberry flavour, the fruit is rounded at the start, then takes on a fine line of tannin, showing itself as a sprinkle of licorice and tar. There is good clarity and cut in this, a wine that will be a bit softer from mid-2010. The length is OK. 2015-17 Dec 2009

2007 ()

3 casks tasted. Compact red berry aromas, oak evident, but the fruit should cope. The oak straightens the wine on the palate, there is some energy in the wine, and the fruit keeps going until some late richness. The length is fine, with sinew in the texture. 2019-21 “This is travelling in the right direction,” Philippe Jaboulet June 2008

2006

mild red, quite bright robe; has a re berry aroma, that is well set in: this persists OK, has a little floral nature. The palate flavour is threaded with pepper, and also tar in its red fruits. It is inherently brisk, and ends clearly and freshly. Either drink it young like this, with evident acidity, or leave it until it is a little “quieter”, around 2010. A wine for prepared foods, needs careful matching – sweeter foods. There are oak touches in the aftertaste. 2019-21 June 2008 Previously Dec 2007 ***(*) dark black cherry robe; has a solidly formed, black fruit aroma – there is plenty here, with smoke and tar and touch of meatiness: the overall impression is clear and rather modern in style. The palate bears well-cut fruits of some intensity – this is a teeth-coating wine. There is a late little shimmy of oak. The length is good in this pretty polished wine that flows well. The oak extends its length. From late 2008, early 2009. 2018-20 Dec 2007