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The Wines

100% Marsanne (1955-1970) from white soils at Larnage, northern zone, 0-20% vat, 80-100% 2-3 year 228-litre oak casks fermented, raised 6-8 months, malo completed, filtered, 3-4,000 b

2018 ()

marked yellow colour; the bouquet is buttery, accentuated on rich aromas of ripe fruits, pear in syrup, apricot juice prominent, with a sun-filled white raisin. The palate is wide, very smoothly textured, unfurls a real sphere of abundance, with fleshy content, and a rich bearing into the finish. Its length holds well, it ends neatly, and is up for paella, Mediterranean, garlic based dishes. It’s convincing, stylish, well made Crozes blanc. 13°. 2027-29 Nov 2019

2017 ()

firm yellow robe. The bouquet is compact, lies in wait, doesn’t reveal openly today: there’s a little saltiness, with a butter, almond duo, a note of white peach. It’s certainly on the back foot. The palate bears sound richness that continues with a steady delivery into a classic Marsanne grip close, a nice, firmness there. This is authentic Crozes blanc, with a little style in its neat bundle of richness on the white fruited close. 14°. 2023-24 Dec 2018

2015

rather full yellow robe. This has a slinky bouquet, offers curvy cooked lemon, citrus airs, with hazelnut, orange peel: it’s a good example of fresh and also ripe Marsanne. The palate gives a smooth textured run of white fruits with squeezy gras at the centre of the wheel. It picks up tangy and vanilla touches towards the finish, and gives a note of aniseed, and its cut, on the finish. There is a little 2015 vintage glow on the aftertaste. Prime STGT white Crozes with much pleasure from the savoury centre. Table wine, good variety of options, sauced dishes and others. 14°. 2021-22 Oct 2016

2013 ()

yellow robe, tapers at the top. Overtly nutty, roast almond air with peach fruit alongside: a nose that fills the glass with an honest depth. The palate is suavely textured, bears Marsanne gras richness, as if from old vines - has that serene depth (tasted blind). A note of vanilla and white raisin, with a sudden tangy kick, ends its journey, the aftertaste warm from its degree. Drink country foods, sauced fish with this, even wild mushroom dishes. 13.2°. 4,000 b. 2019-20  Jan 2015 

2012

even yellow colour. The bouquet presents an agreeable white fruit jam, stewed fruits air, along with a light backdrop of hazelnut, salt. The palate is a neat bundle of flan, hazelnut, nougat, dried fruits. Typical Marsanne presence here, The flavour also involves cooked pear. All parts are in working order, is a wine with style. The finish is juicy, curvy and clear, really bonny. 13°, 4,000 b, no vat raising this year. 2018-19  Nov 2013

2011 ()

shiny, sound yellow. The bouquet is careful, rather closed but has potential – cooked lime chunks, fresh greengage, sultana, liquid honey and cooked Bramley apple feature. The palate is all compact and lissom of texture; like the nose, it is not out in the open, and might even be closing for the winter now. It has a complete, well-textured finish with a light cluster of nut, white grapes, raisin and vanilla there. Stylish, unforced wine, fragrant wine. It will go well with roast chicken, its skin crisp, also baked cardoon vegetables, soft goats cheese. 13°. 2020-21  Nov 2012

2010

quite bright yellow colour, legs. Stylish nose here, a little varnish with it; the main front air is a crunchy white fruit, a searing dried fruit skin and a note of roasted cashew nut. The palate is generously textured, rolls along well. It is stylish, like the nose. The length is good and discreet. I reckon it is almost in a quiet phase now. It is well-balanced, offers floating refinement, is STGT wine delivered with a light touch. The fruit is supple, with an underlay of Marsanne grip and tang, just a little heat. Good, pebbly, clear finale. 100% oak vinification this year. Bottled April 2011. 13.2°. To 2016 Nov 2011

2009

yellow robe; honey and oak mix of aroma, a fat style bouquet, some pear and spice. Unctuous, generous wine on the palate – has a roly poly middle, comes with a textured run until a more serious, slightly enclosed finale. Holds ripe fruit, similar to the south facing Coteau des Pends at Mercurol (tasted blind). Has a good, natural style, is indeed stylish and authentic. Has some of the typical Marsanne tang in it. Best with food to equate with its generosity. 13.5°. 2015-16 July 2010

2008

attractive pale yellow; the aroma has a buttery outer air, is jazzed up by spice and the dust of stones, along with a nutty tang and tangerine – a mixed bag on the nose. The final tangy air is true Marsanne, and serves as a great introduction to the palate. The palate gives attractive, honeyed drinking, and opens out well after its soft start. It ends on firm, compressed notes with more of the tight tang in its nature there. Ideal with food, has moved up and beyond its youthful w.o.w. status, but still has enough gentle and stylish qualities to drink solo. Good grip and length. Has much more authority than southern zone, Chassis plain whites. Authentic wine of character, a valeur sure. After 1 hour, a light orange marmalade flavour enters. 2012-13 Aug 2010 Previously March 2009 *** yellow glints in the robe; has a gentle bouquet – it is floral, aromatic, gives a light honeycomb air. There is good zip in the palate, and it comes with a tight grip. The flavours are hazelnut, dried fruits: this has less structure than 2006 and 2007 and is good for early drinking. The length is pretty, and this makes for a very good aperitif. w.o.w. wine. 2011-12 Bottled last week. “I bottled the wine earlier this year so it had less time in oak – otherwise there would have been a risk of dryness,” Olivier Dumaine. 2,500 b this year – 3,000 b in 2007. March 2009

2005

2 bottles needed. Bottle 2: marked yellow colour; broad, here and now bouquet – shows some high tone, ripe white fruits and a syrup aroma also. Traditional style, ripe fruit, rounded and fat Marsanne on the palate. A little of the typical Marsanne bitterness on the finish – there are softly stated orange marmalade notes here. It is softly textured from its ripeness. Drink with Vieille France cuisine – buttered dishes, for instance. There is often bottle variation here, sadly – the natural touch comes at a price. 2009-10 Dec 2006 – the 1st bottle was no score - baked, bonbon sweet nose, with caramel and acidity. Its apricot flavour isn’t crisp, and flags during drinking. Is flat on the finish, then the aftertaste is harsh. Not right. Dec 2006

2003

full, refined, broad bouquet - pear, white fruits. Full and stylish palate, well-modelled, with elegant richness. Mixes local feel with clean winemaking. Marked STGT qualities here. Chicken in sauce a delight with this. March 2005

2002 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2001 ()

persistent, dried fruit/honey aroma; stylish, chewy, elegant wine. More open by 2005.