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The Wines

100% Grenache (1960s) from 0.4 hectare on galet stone covered clay-sandy soils on Les Serres (S-E), 2 day pre-fermentation cooling, destemmed, 3-4 week steel vat vinification at up to 30°C, twice daily cap punchings, steel vat raised 10-12 months, 1,700-1,800 b

2018

dark robe; the first strike on the nose is like young broad beans, an underlay of sweetness, butteriness, a hint of black cherry. It’s not at all formed as yet, has capacity. The palate bears suave content, an open appeal, red fruits and a touch of smoky tannin. This is good Grenache-centred wine, the neat orb shape testament to that. The texture has a stroking quality until a slightly pebbly close. This is a good, Solid Operator. 15°. 100% Grenache. 1,766 b. €27. From 2022-23 2042-44 Oct 2019

2017

dark red. Stewed plums airs, a brothy style to the bouquet, a hint of reduction. The palate is plump, has a sweet red berry fruit centre, mild tannin on the curve as it finishes. The attack lacks the charge and brio that I would expect. This is not very expressive. I think it has already been bottled, and that affects its ability to be as full of fireworks as it could – it’s a Safe Operator, above all. There is a black fruit core to it, a supple and easy wine. Decant it. 14.5°. From mid-2019. 2030-32 Oct 2018

2014 ()

dark, full robe. The nose has a markedly “high” quality, a seared, roasted edge, grunt factor. There is black fruit at its centre. It feels as if it has been chased into fullness. The palate holds a bold content, plentiful gras richness, with driving, noticeable tannins. It finishes with vigour. Needs to absorb tannin. Big Production, full-on wine: allow until 2019. 14.5°. Bottled June 2015. 1,700 b. €24. 2031-32  Oct 2015

2013

good medium-full purple hue. The nose is reserved, gives just a hint of dark fruit. Again, there is little expression on the palate. This is tight and firm in style. Big extraction here. Powerful, masculine, robust build to this, with a  solid tannic frame. Needs food. Bottled already - it will need some bottle age. From 2017. 14.5°. 2025-26 JL Oct 2014