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The Wines

70% Grenache (early 1970s), 20% Syrah (late 1970s-early 1980s), 10% Mourvèdre (late 1970s-early 1980s), from plateau of La Garrigue, Les Ferailles, La Marine, La Pelatière, clay-limestone soils, destemmed, cultured yeasts, 15-20 day vinification, only pumping overs 1-2 a day, enamel vat raised 12 months, unfined, filtered, 30,000 b

2016 ()

Bottle 1: dark red colour. Plum fruits, sweet spicing feature on the nose, a coulis thickness in the fruit, a note of smoked bacon. The palate is spicy, a touch dry too early, is compressed. This has a hot vintage baking in its feel, and I wonder if it can develop and expand. It’s chunky, resistant wine that needs game, stews. Bottle 2: ***(*) dark robe; blackberry, elderflower airs mingle on the nose, a “high” and rather damp note to the fruit. The palate gives a flavour of soaked fruits such as strawberry, is saturated with easy matter until a tighter, more withdrawn finish which is marked by pepper. It’s markedly different from the first bottle; it’s more together, more shapely, has more fusion. There’s still a little note of dryness as it finishes. 14.5°. 70% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Mourv. From spring 2019. 2028-30 Feb 2018

2015

(vat) dark red, shiny robe. The nose is curvy, reflects very ripe crop, by policy, so there is a damp note in its black stone fruit jam aroma, with some floral tenderness and a note of baking. The palate is coated, peppery, holds fleshy content with supple tannins that break out into crisper and more grainy zones on the finish. There is plenty of wine here, and it requires leaving until spring 2019 at least, decanting, and serving in a large glass. 14°. 20,000 b. 2028-30 March 2017

2011 ()

fine red, not deep colour. Appealing, mildly sweet, easy to appreciate and beckoning nose that has a mulberry fruit heart – this is good. The palate starts off on a good, spiced, peppered footing, has enough body to carry in a fluid manner, ending on a round simmer of southern glow. Not a full scale vintage – this has been well manoeuvred, is suited to early drinking. Licorice, nut moments precede a grainy, herbs aftertaste. Drink with country foods. 15°. 2018-19  Sept 2013

2007 ()

full red; the nose is in the mulled fruits camp, is gracious and appealing, has pepper touches. There is a good, direct thread in the fruit on the palate, that sustains well and clearly. It ends on a bout of peppery chewiness which goes down well. 2013-14 March 2009

2006 ()

red plum robe; black fruits with a bit of jam in the aroma: this bottle has been open a while, note. The palate's black fruits are securely set and discreetly rich. This runs steadily, and shows a wee sweetness at the end, where there is some date and raisin. An “en souplesse”, easy drinking wine, with a touch of late tannin. Not the real structured Vacqueyras, and this form of the wine is becoming popular. 2010-11. June 2008

2005

black plum robe with a little turn on it; the bouquet has “dark” instincts – leather, black fruits, garrigue. There is a tight clamp of tannin on the palate, with black fruit within and a little violet to keep it company. Robust, quite closed wine. The question is - will it soften and sing a little? 2014-15. “I would leave this two to three years more,” Philippe A-B. June 2008

2004

evolving red plum robe; red cherry cake – clafoutis – and raspberry jam aroma; the palate is at a measured stage – it is supple at first, before some enclosure, a more square shape. The tannins end a little dryly. It proceeds steadily until near the finish. The length is OK. 2010-12 June 2008 Previously March 2007 **(*) matt plum red; red fruits, plum jam aroma with a floral outer note, quite rich. Herbal-infused start with a mix of tea and red stone fruits. It's a wee bit dry towards the finish, but respects the vintage. Mature style of wine, good now. No real fireworks. 2011 March 2007