Login | Subscribe
twitter

The Wines

80% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, Cinsault, sometimes Syrah (av age 50 years) from 11 hectares on Triassic clay-limestone soils, concrete vat 21-32 day vinification, daily pumping overs, aged 40-50% large 30 hl barrel, 50-60% steel vat 12 months (all large barrel until mid-2010s), a small amount bottled after 6-7 months raising, unfined, unfiltered, organic, biodynamic wine

2017

deep red robe; the bouquet plunges you into a whirl of deep raspberry fruit, wide and closely-knit it is, has a “shiny” quality. The palate runs with convincing red fruits, delivered with flair, and lengthens into slightly rocky late moments that fit in well. This has character, moves well, and carries the cool texture of Gigondas, the aftertaste clear. The length is good. 15°. From mid-2020. 2039-41 Oct 2018 Previously (an example, sugars done, malo not) ***(*) good dark robe, a purple rim. There’s nice depth on the nose, freshness, too, a clarity of fruit. The palate hands out immediate juice, expressive and fine, fresh also. Harmony, roundness here, charm. It’s a pure, singing wine. “It’s not solar like 2003; I am optimistic and confident,” Dany Chastan. 2031-33 Oct 2017

2016 ()

shiny, full red colour. The nose gives a wave of red fruits, laurel and herbs mixed discreetly in, raspberry peeking out. The palate is sturdy through thickness rather than big power, carries sound richness, lengthening steadily into a good finish, fruit and its juice still apparent there. This shows off the Grenache well, has pedigree and local colour, is an STGT wine. It is calm and nicely intricate, needs consideration to uncover its little, agreeable mysteries. From mid-2018, decanting advised. 15°. €20. 2030-32 Oct 2017

2015

dark robe. The nose mixes leather, prune, dried lands, olives, has a reserved, transitional nature, is closing down now. There are hints of pine trees. There is good sap, oiliness on the attack, and a genuine grapey flavour, the real inside of the berries. It builds strength towards the finish, has vigour. This is very good, a great drop – it goes long, has character and bold, great juice. It’s good and grounded but fresh towards the close, mixes flowers, pepper, floral nudges. It’s a proper STGT Gigondas. 15°. Come back to this around 2020-2021. 2034-36 Oct 2017 Previously Feb 2017 ***** has a most appealing dark red robe, really good lustre. The bouquet is stylish and precise, gives a pinpoint of red berry fruit with a backing of darker fruits and a little baking. There is a rose-hip touch as well. The palate is elegance personified, carries finely tuned red fruits from the old Grenache vines, with a set of silken tannins. This is archetypical en finesse Gigondas, a most beautiful bottle, STGT wine that murmurs its subtle truth in winning fashion. One for the thinkers and students, deserves respect and thought. It tiptoes its way into the aftertaste, which is flecked with grain and its texture. From spring 2019. Decanting advised. 15°. €20. 2033-35 Feb 2017

2014 ()

dark robe, plum colours. The nose is attractive, mixes floral scents, peony, with honey, prune, blackberry jam, has inner depth. For now, it is restrained, sits quietly in the glass, will be more out in 2019. The palate is neat and stylish, a good example of 2014; there is good, chewy matter, fresh tannins, a good, salted close. It lengthens harmoniously, well rounded, holds mild tannins, some late darkness from them. This is very sound: there is a singing wine to come, especially around 2023-24. It just needs coaxing out. 14°. 2028-30 Oct 2017 Previously Dec 2015 *** dark red robe. Has a blackberry, blueberry lead aroma, a note of black olive tapenade. The palate holds juicy fruit, with a fine presence of tannin that fits in well. The juice on the finish is attractive. This is sleek in style, and offers agreeable appeal. It isn’t especially profound, but has balance, even if the scope for added variety beyond the fruit is limited. 14°. €19.50 at the cellars. 2021-22  Dec 2015

2012 ()

dark red, a hint of ruby at the top. The nose is exuberant, off we go – menthol, prune in a classic Gigondas style, smoke and blackberry essence. It’s just starting to evolve into its secondary phase, with spice, cloves. This is tasty! It has a good southern nature, a vibrant core, striking and delicious free fruit; it shows prune and plum, spicing, the tans are deep, and give the wine another coat of content. It ends with menthol, drive, pepper, a good rush. It’s rocking well now, is an STGT wine. “It has joli grain, texture,” Dany Chastan. 14.5°. 2026-30 Oct 2017 Previously Dec 2013 ****(*) (barrel) big, full robe; this has a wide, roasted aroma – the bouquet is big, nearly stoked up, has a good, intense air of black berries. The palate lets loose black berry fruit with a spiced abundance – it runs hither and thither, gives a big mouthful. It combines ripeness with freedom of expression, so the result is a big, tasty wine that will develop well. Has local qualities, leans towards STGT status. Good length, abundant content here. From mid-2016. Decant it. 14°. From mid-2016. 2029-30  Dec 2013

2011 ()

plum red, quite dark robe. Secondary cards are on the table on the bouquet – a criss cross of spice, smoked bacon, buffed leather, bosky notes. It’s not an evident, fruit-led nose, since the fruit is secondary, while pipe tobacco and cedar are present. The debut to the palate is oily, rich; there’s more tobacco on the flavour, with grippy tannins towards the finish, and still making their way into its fabric. The finish is a bit demanding, thick, just before the tannins. It’s a bit cussed, not ready yet: from 2019, and decanting advised. Tea leaves emerge on the exit. “It has roundness, gourmandise,” Dany Chastan. 14.5°. 2024-26 Oct 2017 Previously Dec 2012 **** (barrel) dark, oily robe. Has a thickly endowed bouquet that reflects brewed blackcurrant, has a deep, beef surround and notes of laurel, crème de menthe – the nose shows great variety. The palate is also robust and weighty, but not static. A solid Gigondas that needs two years to refine its finish. It has low-key acidity, and adhesive tannins that lead to a grainy, smoked finale. Genuine wine with the scope to do well. From 2015. 15°. 2025-27  Dec 2012

2010

belle robe, good lustre, thorough, some small evolution in it. The bouquet is great, gives a complete panorama, the aroma sweeps across it rather majestically, on oily, black fruit airs, black raisins, blueberries, good, fresh prompts. It has very good style, lift. Off we go on the palate: menthol, black plum-prune fruit with stylish and free juice, thick and abundant it is. There’s very good, balanced depth in a great combination. It runs with sap [sève] to the finish. This is so true to its place, bears a wonderful set of qualities. It ends running, with vigour, goes very long. The tannins are still well there, salted and fresh, bringing life. 14.5°. 2030-32 Oct 2017 Previously March 2011 **** (barrel) bright, dark red. Good, clean-cut ripe and sympa Grenache red fruit air that comes with good lift, minor smokiness and a quiet breeze of spice, dusty stones. The palate has a spiced, rather oily debut with a built-in raspberry flavour – there is a strong Grenache connotation here. There are pine and local influences, dusty garrigue, aniseed. STGT wine that is compact, likeable, true – it is not a big scale Gigondas, but has a healthy local calling. The length is OK. From late 2013. 2029-32 Dec 2011 Previously March 2011 (example) blackberry aroma that is shapely. The palate is tasty, and circled by crisp tannins. Vibrant wine. 17-20 years. March 2011

2009

the robe is showing ruby at the top, glows, has a dark red, ochre core, has legs. Tobacco-Indian spice, cinnamon ride above a sweet concentrate of date fruit, Christmas cake, brandy cake. This is gourmand, expansive, based on the sunshine gras and fat of the vintage. There is a thickness in it, with the tannins ripe and rounded by now. It ends on spice, with flesh there, a copious gras. It’s thorough, sustained, very typical of 2009. 14.5°. 2027-28 Oct 2017 Previously Oct 2010 **** (barrel) good, deep red which is the prelude to a full bouquet, which combines aromatic red and black berries that are ripe and rounded in style. The palate is ripely fruited, with a fine set of tannins attached, a late show of acidity and carbonic gas apparent. Elegance sought here, and potential interest to come. From spring 2012. 2022-23  Oct 2010

2008

(barrel) red robe. Mature fruit jam aroma, also a spot of sweetness expressed as a fig air – measured potential here. The palate is rather lean, enclosed, has oak-tar wrapping around its black fruit. It is bit sour on the end for now, but the matter and the oak can fuse to give a mid-plus weight wine from late 2011. Pretty faithful style of Gigondas. 2018-19 Dec 2009

2007

good sheen in the robe that has plum fruit colour with a ruby top. The nose is reserved, calm, offers spice with tobacco, isn’t especially open, has cedar, eucalyptus airs. There’s appealing fruit on the attack, comes with a silky texture, good continuity and density that is nicely measured. The close is savoury, the sign-off cosy, a convincing depth there. Toffee, treacle, tobacco on the finish indicate the concentrated richness of the vintage. Has good poise, a nicely sturdy interior. 14.5°. 2027-29 Oct 2017 Previously Dec 2009 ***(*) full red; discreet bouquet – pepper seasoning, tar, cocoa, herbal influences within its prune fruit, Christmas cake airs. Attractive red fruit lead on the palate, which is a little charged up in power, but moves along well. The length good. It ends on fine tannins that precede a peppery aftertaste that is just a wee bit hot. Touch angular and demanding for now, so leave until mid-2011. Marks for local typicity, even if there is unfinished business and the odd rough point. 2020-22 Dec 2009 Previously Nov 2008 **** (barrel) full robe – a sustained, full dark red; there is some sweetness in a smooth curve of black fruit on the nose, with maybe some cinnamon and herb alongside. A typical Grenache nature for the bouquet. The palate starts with clean-cut black fruit that has plenty of body. It stretches out well, the fruit keeps going and the palate ends on some mildly crisp tannin. The fruit has a mature taste, and the aftertaste reflects licorice. A traditional, no-nonsense wine that persists well. There is good style in the fruit, and the wine is authentic. From late 2009. 2017-19 Nov 2008

2006 ()

pretty, full bright plum red; stylish red fruit such as redcurrant jelly with a clean delivery on the bouquet: it is very primary, not yet varied, and there is a little underlay of nut and raisin. The palate red fruit picks up the bouquet theme – it is live on the mid/late palate, and ends on some correctly judged oak that is not intrusive, but just a bit dry there (old barrel influence). The finale is chewy. It is a little dumb from the low pressure, rainy day today and its relative youth in bottle. Esp late 2009 on. 2016-18 Nov 2008

2005 ()

full black plum robe. The nose is broad, and there is potential depth of aroma here, a future ahead: black fruits with some chocolate in the air, and a reductive tendency. Traditional style of Gigondas on the palate: there is ripely presented fruit, with a good thread of tannin after half way. This has a complete run – A to Z. The intrusion of the tannins that renders it dry towards the finish needs 18 months to abate. From 2010. 2017-19 June 2008

2004

quite a dark robe; brewed, coffee, roasted aromas with some ripeness about them – there is certainly some depth here. The palate is full, in a brewed, quite dense way. A hearty wine that has something of the paysan or peasant in its nature late on. A grass roots wine of earthy appeal. There is some late heat. Its tannins will be more settled from 2008 on. 2013-14 Dec 2006

2003

soaked, touch earthy nose of good depth; has a meaty side attached to the cherry and nut airs – a definite downhome presence. Cherry-flavoured palate with sound stuffing. The aftertaste is nutty. From 2007 so it can widen and get together. Punchy, a little rustic. 2012-13 July 2005 Previously March 2005, pre-bottling *** earthy, brewed elements on nose, violet and leather mixed. Tannins grip firmly on palate. Core of black, brewed fruit, baked with a raisin tart style. Contains juice on finish, though. Esp 2007-08 on. 2013-15. the first bottling, with emphasis more on fruit than the second March 2005, pre-bottling

2002 ()

level depth to a bright, pretty plum red robe. Biscuity, nutty first air, with a becoming red fruit interior, baked raisin tart present. Has a nutty and dates flavour, good integrity – this is clear, persistent, correctly in the lighter vein of this vintage. The texture is smooth and refined. There is a good late pocket of gras richness before it ends on a pebbly, rather decisive note. There is lift in this – a scented aftertaste, possibly contributors from a neighbouring vintage. Won a Gold Medal at Mâcon in 2003 – they got it right. 13.5°. 2018-20 Oct 2010 Previously July 2005 **(*) decent, compact bouquet, is pretty thorough, with forest, gamey tones and also mineral. Palate starts with direct hit, quite broad, then narrows and dries towards finish. Nose better than taste. 2007-08 July 2005

2001 ()

prune, black fruit, solid nose that is wide and honest, also local; there is a floral tweak on the top air, in counterpoint to its earthy, fundamental, soil in a damp wood foundation. This is a feet on the ground wine, all as one, a complete do on the palate. Authentic local Grenache with an earthy nature comes through; it ends on a little sweetness, and the aftertaste reflects chocolate and rum cake. Traditional, well made wine, that runs consistently through the palate. 2015-16 October 2008, Kent Previously March 2005 *** full, sound robe. Classy, refined and full bouquet - mixes black fruit, some earth, leather also. Pretty, floral-hinted flavour. Tannins are rounded. Moving into gear, variety to follow. 2014-15 "was very full from the start," Dany Chastan  March 2005

2000 ()

round, well-knit bouquet, has an earthy side. Advancing flavour of baked black fruit; tea, rose-hip finale. Pretty richness, good length, clear finish. Interesting wine. 2010 March 2005

1996

sober, matt-hued dark red. The nose is warm, soft scented, presents an air of red jam fruit, is sympa. The palate starts tightly, but then rushes along to a dry finish. It is upright and pesky now, and needs time to settle and start to run from A to Z. From 2002. Can live due to its acidity. 2013-15  April 1999

1995 ()

dark black cherry colour; the bouquet is brewed, holds concentrated fruit, is deep but still hidden. The palate gives tightly wrapped black fruit flavours; the mid-palate is fair, as is the length. This is very closed up, hints at extraction. The finish is tough. Needs time, can repay keeping. From 2001-02. Can live, has the tight packing for that. Decanting a good idea.  2015-18  April 1999

1985

the robe is full at heart – it displays a low-key, mottled red. The nose is very round, reflecting Christmas cake, raisins, candlewax – it has plenty of heart, is very solid. The palate moves along effortlessly, has a sunny flow, a very consistent texture. Offers red fruits that have a perky nature – redcurrants peep out at the end. Has a good, nice and wide finale. It tightens up again, displaying wax and honey on the finish, where it remains solid. Life of another good few years for this. “The robe is full perhaps because of the old massale hand-grafted Grenache, or perhaps because of the clay soils. I note the fresh leaves of myrrh on the nose – I grow it in my garden and put it on my tomates farcies (stuffed tomatoes), for instance,” Dany Chastan. 2017-20 March 2009

1970 ()

the robe has a full centre which carries a dark cocoa colour. The nose is robust, solid, a touch brewed, shows a minor spirit influence, its fruit resembling crème de Dijon plum. Prune and tea feature in it – it is very assured after 90 minutes, too, the air also helping it to become more airborne, to fly more into the realm of fig and quince paste, then herbs after two-plus hours open. The palate is sealed, compact, has a dense fabric and heart. It is roasted towards the finish, with a mocha after-delivery, cocoa. Has plenty of heart, and with air the palate really gets together, starting to show fruit ahead of mocha and cocoa influences. Has a beautiful herb-lavender packed finish once aired. “It needs time. It comes from the clay part of the appellation – hence the power. We have gypsum in our clay – it is very specific soil. I find Lu apricot biscuits in the aroma, as well as beeswax. Spice and cocoa feature on the palate,” Dany Chastan. March 2009