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The Wines

75-80% Grenache, 0-25% Syrah, 0-20% Mourvèdre (vines av age 40 years) from stony garrigue limestone soils on Les Aubes, dense soils on Les Garrigues, stony limestone soils on Caveau, concrete vat vinification 18-29 days (7-10 days longer than in past), daily pumping overs, concrete vat raised 12 months (aged large barrel 12 months until late 2000s), unfined, unfiltered, organic wine

2016 ()

very dark, black-centric robe. The bouquet is a good whole, if not at all out and about. There’s a hint of roast beef, meat stock, with a compact air of blueberry fruit. The palate releases a satisfying wave of black fruits with a tangy tannin attachment, menthol, crème de menthe notes late on. It’s a full, almost punchy wine, grounded in the warmth of the year. The finish is full, broad, sustained. There will be a lot in the glass; decanting a must. 15°. 80% Gren, 10% Syr, 10% Mourv. From mid-2020. 2032-34 Feb 2018 Previously Oct 2017 **** dark robe. Has an honest warm lands aroma, black fruits, blackberry and prune, a floral top note. The palate links well to the nose, has a good foundation, holds secure, well-set gras with gummy, sustained tannins and length well in. Black olives, tapenade flavours come towards the finish. It’s genuine, STGT wine with good all-round appeal, is nicely complete. 14.5°. From mid-2018. 2028-30 Oct 2017

2015 ()

shiny, sober dark plum colour. The nose has an aroma of sweet prune essence, cooked fig, a sudiste, southern sunshine, notes of treacle, roasting, beeswax. The palate is rich and layered on the attack, with tannins that stomp into the second half – firm, they are. This is dense and thorough, ends on a lip-smack fullness. It’s solid, young wine, gives a proper good glass of Vacqueyras. Decant it. 15°. From spring 2019. 2032-34 Oct 2017 Previously March 2017 ****(*) dark red robe. The nose is intriguing, undeclared: there is inner depth based on black fruits with a touch of southern sweetness. It’s going to take its time to emerge. The palate kicks off on peppery, spiced content with a firm spine of tannin through it. The sides need to, and will, amplify over time. This is interesting, a Thinker’s wine with a classic composition of a wine for the long game. It keeps going stealthily and well, the aftertaste struck with tar, then spearmint. It’s very good, STGT wine. Decanting advised. 15°. This year no Syrah, 80% Gren, 20% Mourv. €16. From spring 2019. 2029-31  March 2017

2014 ()

very dark, shiny robe. The bouquet is modern and up-tempo, has an air of crushed nutshells and a sweep of black cherry fruit. There is an essence of garrigue quality in it. The palate is vigorous and stimulating, runs with liberal black fruits and polished tannins. This is moving into shape, is a superior 2014 Vacqueyras, both the fruit and the content quality high. It finishes clearly, on the run. 14°. €16 at the cellars. From spring 2017. 2025-26  Dec 2015 

2010 ()

dark robe; supple, abundant, nicely generous nose, has an air of coulis of dark berries, blueberry, cool fruit, and licorice. The palate fruit has an easy charm – this is a quiet, tight Vacqueyras, comes in a “don’t scare the horses” style. It ends on chalky, licorice snap as it tightens, has fine acidity and leads into a lightly peppered finale. This will please urban drinkers: country folk may want more punch. OK now. 14°. 80% Gren, 20% Syr this year. 2021-22  May 2013

2009

(barrel) dark robe; oily, black cherry aroma of simple appeal, comes with some pepper seasoning. It is clear, and suggests some power. The palate holds big matter with a good surge in it: a really ballsy wine that takes on tannin and attitude, is a mouth coater. Has a really big finale for now. From 2013. 2022-24 July 2010

2007

full robe; wide, textured nose that offers black fruit with velvet airs, raisin ripeness – sit in the sofa time. Inky, dark fruits debut to the palate, with some breeze of freshness attached. The fruit is juicy, sympa. Has a licorice, mild tannin finish. The fruit is notable – approachable, cherry-flavoured. It lengthens nicely. A subtle, drinkable, feminine wine that is good now. 2016-17 July 2010

2001

attractive, still complete red robe. Appealing Grenache red fruit – maybe mulberry - aroma with a breeze of spice and green pepper, rosehip in there to make it both local and elegant. The palate has an upright shape – it is wrapped in on itself, weaves on sinew, fine tannins, the length good. This has the typical Vacqueyras nerve, and is finer – as it should be – than Gigondas, which has more kick and depth. Faithfully STGT wine with good vintage clarity. Really good in the final stages – bang on pepper, fine fruit, grain. Has a traditional character, is not modern or pristine in style, so white coat wearers need not apply. 2013-14 Apr 2010