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The Wines

45-98% Grenache (1910s-1950s), 2-40% Syrah (late 1990s), 0-15% Mourvèdre (late 1970s) from mainly limestone soils from altitude at 471 metres in Dentelles de Montmirail & Petit Montmirail, hand harvested, destemmed, when three varieties used are all vinified separately, 3 day cool pre-fermentation maceration, then 3 week vinification at up to 28°C, 3 daily pumping overs, cap punching, 1 part vat emptying/refilling a day for a week, malo in cask, aged 65% vat, 35% 600-litre oak casks 18 months (has been aged new 228-litre oak casks 20 months), fined, unfiltered, first wine 2000, 1st vintage was 60% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre, 1,500-1,800 b

2017 ()

(casks) dark red colour; the nose involves dried herbs from the garrigue, comfortable black fruits, blackberries with an easy air about them. The palate has a supple richness, is fleshy, rolls along willingly, comes with ripe, well marshalled tannins, gives a smooth flow, and sustains well into a well-juiced aftertaste. This has a good Gigondas pedigree, and the sap [sève] of old vines at its heart. It will be a rewarding, elegant glass of Gigondas. 15.5°. 98% Gren, 2% Syrah. From 2021. 2039-41 Oct 2018

2016

(vat/casks) sober, rather dark red robe. The bouquet is charged, has an aroma of oxtail, deeply set red berry, cherry liqueur fruit, a note of varnish from oak. There are different lines of approach, suggesting that it will be nicely complex in time. This shows the sève – the sap – of old vines right from the off. They give the wine its pleasing unctuosity, something that can’t be conjured up in the cellar. The heart of the wine is pleasing thanks to that gracious presence, with the red fruit of Grenache central to it [tasted blind]. There are high quality tannins wrapped snugly around it, and this is well balanced, shapely Gigondas that will age very well, in no hurry. There’s a spice assertion just before the finish. I see after tasting that it is indeed 98% Grenache. From 2021-22. 2039-42 Oct 2017

2015 ()

(vat/casks) dark plum robe. The bouquet is close-knit, with a solid centre of black fruit, a ripe heart that will gradually unfurl. There is a sense of sweet herbs, rosemary. It’s young, but broad and well sustained. The palate reflects a line of oak along its stylish path, bears good prune-cooked plum flavour with a build of spice and intensity towards the finish. This is a deep-seated Gigondas, with the silky quality of the gras, a good and relaxed sève (sap), indicating the contribution of old vine fruit. Serve in a large glass around eight years old onwards, and really enjoy this. From 2020. 2033-35  Feb 2017

2013 ()

dark robe. The nose has a simmered mulberry fruit, plum-prune, serenely established aroma, Grenache that is ripe in the front rank. There is an underlay of damp forest, just a hint of that. The palate issues pretty generous gras, with cooked plums, soaked fruits and some snappy tannins following the fruit. This carries good detail, is harmonious and clear. The length is elegant, the close tinted with salt freshness. Very good. 15°. 1,500 b. 98% Gren, 2% Syr. Bottled 19 May 2015. €50. From 2017. 2027-29 Dec 2015 

2010 ()

(casks) dark, shiny robe; crunchy, grilled first air – the bundle of elements on the nose include toffee, sweet date, very ripe fig, as if the crop was left a long time in the vineyard for near extreme ripeness, a stylistic signature rather than a natural one. This plump wine has a smooth texture. Built-in, ripe tannins emerge after half way and support it effortlessly. There is a floral aftertaste which helps it to flow, but I can sense its spirit, its alcohol in the late moments. It is 14.5°, meaning close to 15°. Has a prune aftertaste. From mid-2014. £29.90 in GB. 2027-28 Dec 2011

2001

a mix of elegant and fullness on the bouquet; varied herbal flavours combine in a pleasing richness on the palate, with chocolate in the taste from its oaking. Has an expressive style, with the Grenache nicely on top, even though there is a lot of Syrah. The oak and tannins need leaving until 2007-08. A proper wine for ageing and patience. 2019-21 July 2005

2000 ()

good, still full red robe; menthol, licorice aroma with Syrah evident and some animal airs. Solid palate here – it is upright, oak tinted, a little cellar-led. Black berry flavours – this is an absorbent wine, with late harvested fruit used for this. Licorice finale. Esp 2006 on. 2012-14 July 2005