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The Wines

80-100% Grenache (1990), 0-20% Syrah, Cinsault, from a 1.3 ha vineyard on sandy soils, pre-fermentation crop cooling, destemmed, crushed, 35-40 day steel vat vinification at 28°C, 6-8 day fermentation, daily part vat emptying/refilling, pumping overs, aged 1-8 year 600-litre oak casks 18-21 months, lightly filtered, first wine 2009, 2,500-4,000 b & 120 magnums

2018

(600-litre casks) bright full red robe; the bouquet leads on raspberry, has some airborne lift, a murmur of sweet herbs, is wide, holds well. The palate links well, holds sturdy, continuous content, with a firm, decisive close. The red fruits release only a little cautious juice for now. Good potential here. The aftertaste is smoky, rock, very Gigondas, fine tuned coolness there. This is STGT Gigondas. 15°. 100% Grenache. 4,000 b. €42. From 2022-23. 2041-43 Feb 2020

2017

(casks) dark red. Reductive nose, needs air; there is a fat notion of black berry fruit, the fat increased by some sweet oak. The palate holds interesting, tasty blackberry fruit with a line of minted tannins that bring late movement. It’s polished Gigondas with style in its gras richness, can get close to the land as it ages. 15°. 100% Grenache. From mid-2021. 2037-38 Oct 2018

2016 ()

(casks) dark red robe. There is sweetness in the cooked plums’ aroma, with some wild strawberry and its delicate appeal also. The palate sets out on clear red fruits, has a smooth run, ends on a little build of toffee-tannin from its oak raising. There is a note of eau de vie towards the finish. This is a wine of dimension, and, while it’s all very sleek, it’s heady, top heavy, and you wouldn’t feel inclined to drink much of it. The aftertaste brings in red fruited liqueur. It’s an acquired taste of a wine. 16.5°. 4,000 b. From 2021. 2035-37 Oct 2017

2014 ()

(casks, bottling spring 2016) red robe. The bouquet is compact, has some potential, exudes a for now funnelled air of liquid blackberry, has a note of black olives as well as charcoal from its oaking. The palate gives smoky dark fruits, blueberry included, with its tannins adding late drive. The oak runs through the palate; the gras is supple enough to suggest all will be well provided it is vatted quite soon before bottling. There is a flourish of blackberry coulis on the finish. This is international, but isn’t overdone in extraction. 4,000 b. €36. From 2018. 2026-28  Dec 2015

2012 ()

(casks) red-purple shine in the robe; the bouquet is tender, offers berry fruit with a licorice, smoky bacon touch: for now, the nose doesn’t give a lot. The palate possesses lively red berry fruit with cut and breeze in it – it has a bonny, enjoyable fluid fruit appeal. It is a wee bit tame but has agreeable, early drinking and charm on the agenda. The exit is sound and fresh. From mid-2015. 15°. €32 at cellars, high. 2,500 b. 2024-2025 Dec 2013

2011

(casks) dark red. Spice-pepper oaking influence on the nose, comes with a a liquid blackberry underair, loganberry. The palate has an assertive attack – it rushes out, has a taste of soaked raspberry at its centre. The oak resumes after that with a liqueur red fruit surround. There is a hum of power inside, comes in disparate parts now, and the fat of the vintage and only mild grape tannins indicate a nervous balance. It needs to fuse and gain a central focus. From 2015. €15 export price. 15°. 99% Grenache this year. 2024-26  Dec 2012

2010

(casks) dark plum red; has a charcoal top air that runs across the glass, leaving a smoky residue with a grainy, grilled intervention, the plum-like fruit subdued for now. The attack is bosky, minted, shows vintage freshness. There is a wiry, fresh line of tannin and a welcome, gradual declaration of black jam flavour on the finish, which holds gras. It is at an intermediate stage in its raising, and for now shows a gritty, wiry aspect. From 2015 or so – I would be in no hurry. 95% G, 5% Sy this year. 2028-30 Dec 2011

2009

full robe. Oily, viscous, black cherry and nutty airs – there is scale in the bouquet, has a modern-type grandeur. Oaked, virile debut to the palate, which drums out insistently, a wine that is barely into its stride. It ends on collected tannin-charcoal oak influences. There is a slight sense that it has been stretched in its vinification, that demands have been placed on it in the cellar. There is a big juice centre to this, and the finish is assertive. USA market style of wine. Allow it time to relax a bit. From 2014-15. €15 export price. 2027-28 July 2011