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The Wines

80-99% Grenache (1940s), 1-20% Syrah, Cinsault, from a 1 ha vineyard on limestone marl soils on La Colline, pre-fermentation crop cooling, destemmed, crushed, 35-40 day steel vat vinification at 28°C, 6-8 day fermentation, daily part vat emptying/refilling, pumping overs, aged 1-4 year 500-litre & 600-litre oak casks 18 months, lightly filtered, 3,700-4,000 b

2018

(casks) mild red robe; the nose is simple, not deep, has speckled red fruits with a little spicing. The palate is top heavy vis-à-vis its depth of content, which seeks refinement, but the degree weighs over it, its glow a distraction. This is a Nordic, pared back take on Gigondas, but requires riper content, more depth to be really ensemble. The red cherry fruit is pure, to its credit, and there is a little fragrance. 15°. 4,000 b. 100% Grenache. €42. From 2022-23. 2038-40 Feb 2020

2017

(casks) dark red; the bouquet is fat, shows garrigue herbs, an orb of cooked red berry fruit, a small notion of cooler blue fruit. The palate is in the throes of its oak raising, which imparts a toffee flavouring, in with its black cherry liqueur fruit. This is slow-moving, rather ponderous Gigondas, away from the approachable, easy to drink style. The finish is weighty, soaked. 15°. 100% Grenache. From mid-2021. 2038-39 Oct 2018

2016

(casks) bright, dark robe. The bouquet serves an air of lamb stock, crushed blackberries behind, a raspberry liqueur aroma lurking. There’s strength here. The palate is broad and immediately imposing, gives a wholesome crunch of red-fruited content, with deep-seated tannins adding bulk to the finishing stages. It’s quite a potent brew, is a ground force Gigondas with inner glow. The tannins are still raw, so leave until 2021. Decanting advised. 16.7°. 3,000 b. 2037-40 Oct 2017

2015

(casks) very dark colour. The bouquet is full, marked by coulis-jam blackberry airs with oak-varnish lurking. It is broad, and implies a meaty strength. The palate runs with streamlined black fruits flecked throughout by their oaking. It has plenty of charge and southern depth. This is modern Gigondas with one foot in the cellar, the other in the vineyard. The finish is long, brings in blue fruits with a clack of clarity and some oak-chocolate. From 2020 to allow the oaking to infuse. 2031-34 Feb 2017

2014

(casks, bottling spring 2016) dark red. The nose is trim, bears a discreet blackberry aroma, some cocoa, juniper notes as well. There is a fluid quality to the fruit. The palate gives a determined run of dark berry fruit with a smoky sign-off, its tannins tightly clustered, a note of beef, meatiness on the aftertaste. Its juice runs liberally, and this can be both serious and entertaining. 15°. 3,700 b. €39. From 2018 to allow oak to infuse. 2027-29  Dec 2015 

2013

(casks, bottling April 2015) purple-garnet colour – lighter at the rim. Dark fruit and chocolatey oak airs on the nose. Oak is again present on the palate, which adds sweetness. This has a certain depth, but the finish is drying and the refreshment value limited. Too sweet for my taste. 15.4°. From 2017. 2024-25 JL Dec 2014