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The Wines

80-84% Grenache, 10-15% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre, 0-5% Cinsault (1966) from clay-limestone soils, crushed & destemmed, 10-15 day vinification at up to 27-30°C, pumping overs, part vat empting/refilling, concrete vat raised 12 months, unfined, filtered, 5-15,000 b, can rise to 34,000 b

2017

quite a dark red. The nose has an elderberry aroma backed by stewed red berries, is a brothy, not clear, début. The palate is spiced, with sinew in its content, a lithe feel overall. The shape is upright, and the tannins are a little stretched. It will benefit from decanting. The early fruit is bright, the overall feel chewy for now. Hints of extraction here. 14.5°. 80% Gren, 15% Syr, 5% Mourv. From 2020. 2031-32 Oct 2018

2016 ()

shiny dark red. The bouquet is reticent, on black fruit, with a sweet, jam-like implication, blackberry paste. The palate is suave, travels easily, black fruits and black olives in the picture. The palate is more interesting than the nose, so decanting will aid the latter. It’s a sealed, quietly enjoyable wine with some menthol, Gigondasesque freshness as it closes. It can be drunk now. 15°. 5,000 b. 80% Gren, 15% Syr, 5% Mourv. Bottled Aug 2017. €7.50 export. 2026-27 Oct 2017

2015 ()

regular red robe, with sheen. Blueberry fruit with salted notes feature on the nose, some dustiness from the garrigue. It centres on Grenache. The palate starts on rather pure red fruit, with undemanding tannins inside. It runs along easily, drinks now. It doesn’t have the standing of the leaders, but is a friendly, open, spiced Gigondas for drinking now until 2021. The length is sound. I agree with their recommendation for drinking: “grills, white meats or as an aperitif”. 14.5°. June 2017

2014

(vat) quite dark red. The bouquet is reserved, but within lies a sweet-noted, grilled pork, sweet herbs aroma, a note of raspberry. The palate gives easy run dark berry fruit, with a lining of crisp tannins; their direct crunch close the wine, leaving a dry finale. It has fair weight, lives on its rockiness for now, tapers a little. 14.5°. 5,000 b. 80% Gren, 15% Syr, 5% Mourv. €7.50. From 2018. 2025-26  Dec 2015 

2013 ()

(vat) purple-garnet hue, light at the top. Red berry fruit shows on the nose. The palate is simple and rustic. Light fruit weight here, with tannins that are dry and a little aggressive on the finish. 14.5°. From 2016. 2022-23 JL Dec 2014

2012 ()

(vat, bottling in 2 weeks) typical quite full Grenache plum red colour; smoky, nutty aroma with a sense of brewed fruits that reach in quite deeply. The nose is sweet, rather stewed, very smoky ash-like. The palate bears sound content flanked by a nutty lining. It accentuates a stylish gras richness, captures 2012 well, and will entertain around 2017, by when its gourmand, appealing fruit and round gras will drive the show. It could have more nuance and mystery to set up later variety. €11 at the cellars. 10,000 b. 14.5°. 2023-24  Dec 2013

2011 ()

healthy plum red; the bouquet gives a sense of power, with mulled fruits the result of hot climes; has puppy fat plum fruit, a hint of geranium flowers. The palate is similar – it is based on high-ish degree, ripe red fruit, and is a minor fruit bomb. It lacks tannic support at the end, so drifts there. A simple wine that lacks freshness. The finale is spiced. I wonder if it’s showing post bottling setbacks… From mid-2013. Tasted blind. It appears this has just been bottled, so it may get greater grip in 2013-14. 10,000 b. 14.5°. Dec 2012

2010 ()

(an assembled example) quite dark; comfortable couch of fruit that is deep, a bit reductive. Serenely fruited palate, with kick on the finish that bodes well for its life ahead. March 2011

2009 ()

plum robe with a matt top. Buoyant fruit on the nose, has red fruit-plum Grenache core to it and also has floral airs; “I find peach-like flowers” Jérôme Boudier. Very Grenache-styled palate that offers cooked fruits such as plum and prune, and is also nicely scented. Elegant, supple wine that persists quietly. Its tannins will ease, but are already mostly absorbed. Good Gigondas for finesse and enjoyment. I give it marks for harmony. 14°. 2018-19. 10,000 b this year, bottled end August 2010. . March 2011

2008 ()

quite full red; pongy, reductive first air, curvy red plum fruit aroma – the bouquet is subdued overall. Moderated red fruit on the palate – Grenache with some plumpness. It extends quietly, is round rather than pointy. Drink now – take the early, rather brief suppleness of it. To 2014. Only 7,000 b this year. €6.50 ex cellars. July 2011

2007 ()

deep, rather full robe. Smoky, slightly raw air, with a black raisin presence and chocolate notes. The palate is rather severe, and “dark”. Its tannins are abrupt, as I recall from the past, and it ends on a limestone, chalky power. Finding its way – this is not the polished article. 14°. To 2017  July 2011  Previously Nov 2008 **(*) quite a full red; black jam aroma with a licorice tang in it, an upright shape for now. Like the 2006, it reminds me of a Beaumes-de-Venise. The palate gives live red fruit, delivered with innate punch, gains a chewy side as it goes. Clean, a bit spotless for now. Its tannins need 12 months to integrate their limestone snap. A wine that drinks clearly – will be more rounded around late 2009. Bottled April 2008. 14°. 2015-16 Nov 2008

2006

red+ robe; broad, slight advance on the bouquet – baked fruit, a little dampness, raspberry jam being prepared in the kitchen air. The palate also has a squeeze of fruit and grip towards the finish. Accessible wine, with a well-set, fine couch of tannin and licorice. It is a Steady Operator that is changing now from its first flush of youth. Sequence through the palate is sound, and there is late clarity thanks to its altitude. Late heat in this. “It started on red fruits and cassis, and is now moving to a firm stage, a strawberry flavour,” J. Boudier. 2013-14 Nov 2008