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The Wines

60% Grenache (1920s-1950s), 40% Syrah (1960, 1975, 1985/90) from red clay, limestone soils on Les Bosquets (S-W), Les Hautes Garrigues (W) at 180-200 metres, hand harvested, light crush, destemmed since 2006, 22-37 day vinification, daily pumping overs only, concrete vat raised 12-18 months, unfined, unfiltered, first wine 2005, only in best vintages, 3-8,500 b

2017

(vat) full red robe; the nose gives a red fruit jelly, raspberry aroma with a back note of cassis. The fruit is pure. The palate holds loose, easy flow content, drinks openly now, lacks the real structure of the best this year, is polished, if a bit simple and light. The length is sound. 15°. 60% Gren, 40% Syrah. From late-2019. 2035-37 Oct 2018

2016

(vat) dark robe, shiny. The nose is brewed, brothy, shows grilling, roast pork crackling airs, an under couch of black berries. The palate holds good rolling matter, with life in the black fruits, cherries, and darkness in the tannins which pile high as it ends. It’s an assertive, roasted Gigondas with plenty of heart and free run impact. The tarry tannins need leaving until 2020-21. It’s wide on the finish, and will fill the glass well. 2034-37 Oct 2017

2015 ()

(vat) sober, quite dark red robe. The nose is on the sweet side, with an air of raspberry en route from coulis to jam. There is some intensity as it lingers. The palate gives clearly defined red fruits with a tang of crisp tannin and its minty influence. The finish is breezy, and invites a second d glass, albeit this is a wine of some innate power. I find it less local than the 1806 Gigondas this year. It quietens down on the finish, lacks a little inspiration. 14.5°. From 2019. 2029-30 Feb 2017

2014

(vat, bottling autumn 2016) dark red, shiny robe. Has a raspberry with blackberry and black cherry first aroma, glints of freedom in the air, so can be expressive and open in time, its width assured. The palate attacks on fluid, textured content, the gras supple and beckoning. This travels with prolonged, silken length. All bodes well here. Gigondas with good, polished tannins and enjoyable fruit, en rondeur. 14.5°. 8,500 b. €25. From mid-2017. 2027-29  Dec 2015 

2013

(vat, bottling winter 2016) dark, full robe, legs visible. The bouquet is broad and full also – it presents a sustained aroma of black fruit jam, with hints of mocha, menthol. The palate gives strength from within, is closely packed with savoury, punchy matter. It ends on menthol coolness, is making its way gradually, no hurry. Has good weight and carry. 14.5°. A very small 3,000 b this year. €25. From 2018-19. 2029-32  Dec 2015  Previously Dec 2014 * (vat) purple robe. Has a rather unpleasant, reductive, stewed nose. The palate is hard and muted, and there are drying tannins on the finish. Could well be a poor sample. Needs retasting in bottle. Provisional note only. To retaste.  JL Dec 2014

2012

(vat, bottling June 2014) red with purple robe. Beef stock, Marmite yeast extract touches appear around a plum fruit aroma – the nose has a good aura. The palate is expressive, bears peppery red fruit, glides along, takes on spiced tannins, with notable cut as it ends. There are crunchy notes in it. Has a grippy, fired aftertaste. From 2016.  14.5°, 8,000 b, €21.50 ex-cellars. 2027-29  Dec 2013

2011

(vat, bottling May 2013) quite a dark red robe. Appealing, oily red berry liqueur fruit aroma that is wide and engaging, strawberry and summer sun in the glass. The palate starts elegantly, holds agreeable red plum fruit that lasts nicely, has a supple texture. There is a light hover of grain and oak at the end. All good-fitting elements, a stylish wine here. There is a good gain of concentration, a small spot of that on the aftertaste. A wine that will please. From mid-2014. 7,500 b, €21 at the cellars this year. 2025-27  Dec 2012

2010

(vats) dark colour. There are mixed influences on the sweet-noted nose – prune, leather, blackberry; it has a marked fruit jelly, ripe aspect. Blackberry fruit debut to the palate, which is absolutely open and waves its fruit with ease and a becoming texture. There is a spot of intensity, “darkness” just before the finish. A Redondo, orb-like accessible style of Gigondas. It lengthens pretty well, with stealth, and persists. The fruit is classy, cleanly struck. From late 2013. 14.5°. 2029-31 Dec 2011

2009 ()

2 bottles tasted, 1st bottled corked. 2nd bottle: shiny black-red colour; oily, creamy air of prune and black fruit liqueur, its blackberry ripe and has a note of licorice and latent power in it. Broad, layered display of black fruits on the palate, has sweet notes and ripe tannins within. It lengthens steadily – it is a young wine with a future. There is poise in the fruit, that slips down well. Good balance. From 2013. 2024-27 July 2011 Previously Oct 2010 ***** (vat) rather dark robe; cherry liqueur or soaked cherries (griottes) aroma led by that juicy black fruit, comes with some reserve for now. The palate is copious, has a juicy heart, contains streamlined black fruit which is well-founded and has a surround of noticeable tannin – it is well up to absorbing that given time. Has a good herb-spice finish, with tar and tannin there as well. Indeed, it ends firmly for now. From spring 2013. 2026-28 Oct 2010

2007 ()

dark robe; blackcurrant jam aroma with some red berry to lighten it and bring it forward. Has a prune flavour with a supple mid-palate moment before it closes tightly on a run of fine, clear tannins. This is tucked up on the finish, its tannins a shade dry, as if wind-influenced. When I discover what it is, I find it has tightened right up, and thus needs leaving until late 2011 now. 2019-20 Dec 2009 Previously Nov 2008 ****(*) (vat) very full robe; the bouquet reflects sweet, closely packed black fruits, black lozenges and violet and sweet licorice. There is an ample cushion of black fruit on the palate, but also good life as the matter runs along. A tasty wine in the making – there is a genuine bounty here. The fruit is delightful, with clear, smooth tones later on. There is harmony to come, the balance is good. From spring 2010. A beauty, even if it is not very local just now. This will sing. 2019-21 Nov 2008 Previously June 2008 (vat) full purple colour; just post-lees aroma so is unfinished there. The palate holds elegant content – it is well packed, without excess. Length good, the end is crisp. Holds well woven tannins. Pleasingly fresh. From 2012. 2023-24 June 2008

2006 ()

solid red robe, black hints. High, persistent red stone fruit aroma, leans towards prune, and also suggests air would help to free it. Has a cleanly struck palate, lithe along the sides, but doesn`t quite deliver the depth promised by the nose. The red plum fruit is a bit dank. Is a refined Gigondas, rather fragrant on review. May expand on the second half with another year in bottle. Polished tannins, quietly persistent length. 14°. 2017-19 Nov 2008 Previously Jan 2008 ***(*) dark, quite bright plum colour; plenty of fruit on the nose – a mix of red and black berries with some sweetness: the aroma holds up well until brought to a close by what seems to be oak. Has a blackberry, quite fleshy, established gras start, then picks up some pepper as it goes, with cocoa and charcoal late on. It is aiming to be stylish and structured – by design of the maker (tasted blind). It can move in the direction of singing a song around 2013-16. Tarry aftertaste now, though there is some richness there as well. From mid-2010. 2020-22 Jan 2008

2005

the only vintage with whole bunch fermentation – all destemmed since then. Full plum red, some advance on it. Baked apple, coffee, ripe black cherry aroma – the nose is braod and wholly together. The palate texture is smoother than the regular 1806 wine of this vintage: it gradually gains chewiness, depth. The fruit is like soaked black cherries, with grip from half way. Moving steadily, no hurry. Toasted, roasted notes on the end. From spring 2009. “This is less evolved than the 1806, since that was raised in large barrels,” Bernard Chauvet. 2018-19 Nov 2008 Previously June 2008 **(*) dark red-black plum colour that is matt in tone; the bouquet is rather dank – it shows overripe fruit led by blackberry and prune, with sweet coffee and beef stock surrounds. The palate comes in a rich, mature style – the black fruit goes towards prune rather than fresh plum. The texture is a little sappy, although there is richness of a firmer nature within. It ends a little suddenly, with tar out and about. A wine that needs big foods or stews rather than refined cuisine. 2015-17 June 2008