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The Wines

75-80% Grenache (1970-1995), 10-15% Mourvèdre, 5-10% Syrah, 1-5% Cinsault, destemmed (machine picked), 14-25 day concrete vat vinification at up to 30°C, daily pumping overs only, raised concrete, steel vat 14-18 months, then 40-50 large hl barrel 6-10 months, fined, filtered, up from 8,000 b to 27,000-31,000 b,

2018

(concrete/steel vat) sturdy, dark robe; the bouquet is dense, smouldering, on stewed black fruits with a sweet heart that suits. There is a powdery exterior. The palate is wide, near massive as it rolls in stately fashion, giving soaked black fruits with major gourmandise, a ripe fluidity. This avoids excess weight, so isn’t a fruit bomb. It’s a ripe Gigondas, open to all comers. 14°. 27,330 b. 75% Gren, 10% Syr, 10% Mourv, 5% Cins. €14 at cellars. From mid-2021. 2038-40 Feb 2020

2016 No Rating

(vat/barrel, bottling late 2018) full, dark red. The nose shows blackberry fruit with a baked surround, possibly not clear, clean. The palate is dense and punchy, has a baked arrival from the mid-point, so the fruit and flavour retreat. There’s plenty of scale to this, but I’m not sure it can thrive. The finish is curly for now, and I’d prefer to re-taste post bottling.14.5°. 31,000 b. €14. Oct 2017

2015 ()

(vat) sober dark red robe. The nose is nicely hearty, with a broth of black berry fruits, plums, sweet herbs and some inner sweetness. It is broad, and genuine. The palate links well to the nose, offers black fruit with a spice take after half way. It goes long, with the fleshy content persisting. The aftertaste runs with black pepper, good lift. This holds traditional virtues. From 2018. 2026-28 Feb 2017

2013 ()

(vat) deep, purple colour. The nose is ripe, even a touch confit and jammy (in a good sense). The fruit is ripe and sweet on the palate, but there’s a minerally freshness as well. Attractive medium-bodied weight here. It is clean and digestible on the finish. 14°. From 2017. 202­6-27  JL Dec 2014

2012

(vat) rather dark red; sunny, nicely generous bouquet that centres on macerated plum fruit, a little note of laurel, herbs, raspberry – it is all open and easy. The palate is more reserved than the nose would suggest, a good sign. This will reveal stylish dark red fruit with a fine tannin and pepper in it. The length is good, discreet. A precise, detailed wine that merits a second or third thought to get into it. It shows enjoyable increments as it travels along the palate and is stealthily stylish. From mid-2015. 14°. 2025-26  Dec 2013

2011

(vat) dark robe; cooked-brewed black berry fruit aroma with forest airs, damp leaves; the fruit has an oiliness in it. There are notes of lees, treacle, molasses. The palate is close-knit, a little square, gives a chunky block of flavour. Feet on the ground, natural Gigondas, with garrigue ripened fruit. It has a firm, oily, chocolate or mocha ending, prolonging on gutsy power. Traditional, STGT wine of attractive length – interesting wine here. From mid-2014. 14°5. 2024-25  Dec 2012

2005

full, purple-red colour; Bright, simmered dark red berry aroma, with smoke, bacon, depth – good, clear fruit here. The palate starts widely, is still reserved. This is a wine of substance and nerve as well, the latter from the vintage. The length is good. Decant now, or wait until mid-late 2009. A solid wine with plenty of local appeal – has a good thread of acidity, ends clearly. STGT instincts. I like the garrigue, licorice finish. 14.5°. “This can be put aside 1-2 years even, for a more supple, sounded style,” Laurent Chauvet. 2018-20 Nov 2008

2004 ()

full, dark red. Mulled stone fruits aroma, ripe plum with some brooding darkness either side. It is starting to show second stage, southern and garrigue airs. The palate gets off to a wholesome start, comes with sinew, some live tannin that keeps it moving. It ends on a slight roundness, only partially achieved at present. Good clear fruit in this robust, but not excessive wine of good length. Licorice and some lip smacking moments on the finish. Not a rich year, but has good heart. STGT wine. “A year ago it was more closed, more edgy . . it has opened and expanded. But it could still be left for another winter,” Laurent Chauvet. 2016-17 Nov 2008 Previously July 2005 *** (vat/barrel) has a “dark” aroma, that is meaty and upright still. This suggests Syrah and Mourvèdre. Some pepper is also present. Good scale and harmony on the palate; the black cherry fruit is clear and fresh, and the tannin-oak mix works well. Good length and structure, promising wine. 2018-19 July 2005

2003 ()

the red colour is starting to yield. Baked, black fruit berries aroma, sweet black raisin, chocolate, like a Crunchie bar (has honeycomb in its chocolate). This is a wine of an intense nature, compact texture. Prune, black fruit, rather oily feel late on, has a thread of herbs. Like the other wines from here, it is upright in nature. Still young – has the freshness of this domaine. Herb, licorice finish, is muscled there. Biscuity aftertaste. 2015-16 Nov 2008 Previously July 2005 ** sweet, red stone fruit nose where the raspberry is entwined with flowers. Supple, nicely relaxed, full and generous palate – very Grenache in nature. A wine without pretension, but a bit commercial, a bit limited. Perfectly OK now to 2010. Needs to be cheap to justify the Gigondas tag. July 2005

2001 ()

sustained, evolving nose of good depth – has a sweet note. Punchy, demanding on the palate. No real grip or clarity of expression. Violet in the taste. Dull wine. To 2008. July 2005

1996

quite dark; dark fruit, a sub air of leather on a bouquet that also shows some spirit, might be a little stretched. This is unusually sweet on the attack, has hedgerow fruit that runs in decent fashion along the palate. Not easy to judge, since there is a spirit side to it, and a sense of cellar work. From 2002. 2010-13  April 1999