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The Wines

60-70% Grenache, 15-20% Syrah, 6% Mourvèdre, 4% Cinsault from clay-limestone soils on Le Tombadou, Le Tronc, whole bunch fermentation, 30-50 day concrete vat vinification of three varieties together, the Syrah apart, daily pumping overs, wild yeasts, 1-2 part vat emptying/refillings, some cap punching, aged 50% 1-7 year old 600-litre oak casks, 50% 65 hl large barrel or concrete vat 14 months, unfined, unfiltered, 10-12,000 b

2018

(concrete vat/casks) dark robe; the nose is in an intermediary state, has a low-key air of cooked plum fruit, a compact ripeness. It’s slow to emerge and move en route. The palate has a savoury debut, bears appealing, careful richness with a well wrapped mix of tannin and content on the menthol-inspired finish. This comes with deft contributors that make it an engaging whole. €13.20. From mid-2021. 2033-35 Feb 2020

2016

(concrete vat/casks) sombre dark red robe. Oak varnish, soaked cherry airs lead the nose, which has a brewed, still in the cellar nature. It’s a weighty start. The palate is also cellar-led, with the oak prominent along its route, pepper and slightly dry touches here and there. The content is spiced, dark. Its rather clumsy, not sure how much I want to drink of this. The finish is on the oak and its smoke again. Decant it. From spring 2020. 2027-28 Feb 2018

2012 ()

very dark colour. This has a big, deep nose – it shows major southern black fruiting with a liberal distribution of herbs and some pepper present. The palate is copious, filled up with juicy black fruit – a surfing wave of that comes forward. Minted tannins wrap closely in, and it ends on grainy, tighter moments. Big, purposeful and abundant. From 2016. 10,000 b. 2026-27 Dec 2013

2009 ()

quite a full plum red colour; rather reserved bouquet, but one with potential, and a complete backdrop, mulberry style fruit. It has the sun of 2009 in its prominent, notably wide make-up. Muscled start to the palate – there is a good, constant run of solid matter, red fruit at its centre. The length is good, and the tannins can make it – they are just showing mineral, pebbly austerity for now. From mid-2013. 2019-22 March 2011

2007 ()

(barrel/vat) full, dark robe. Has a smoky, intense nose – this is big stuff; the black fruit has flecks of oak with it. There is a big charge of black fruit on the palate – this is a muscled wine, big and deep. A thread of oak emerges at the end. Has great heart, is quite a boy. Good length. Due for bottling March 2009. 2018-19. “The final assemblage will probably show less oak,” Eric Ughetto. Nov 2008

2006

steady red plum colour, has a rich aspects, legs. The nose is rather substantial, gives ground coffee beans, licorice, grainy – deep and sustained. As it airs, prune, dusty and lavender airs come forward. The palate bears “dark” fruits, maturing towards prune with its evolution. It shows the rather seared nature of 2006, dry outcrops. Food is a must for it: hearty dishes. It holds up well, ticks over properly at the end, and is nicely broad in the late stages. Authentic, unpretentious, hearty, but with a shade of finesse that keeps it the right side of the traditional-rustic definition. It churns out a chewy finale. Genuine. 14.5°. To 2017  June 2011, East Sussex Previously Nov 2008 **(*) quite a full red. The nose shows some wild berry jam in the aroma – a cautious black jam with a shimmer of baked stones; in a “quiet” phase now. The palate has a round, quite fleshy start, a secure mid-palate and a good roll of red fruits to end on a little pebbly note. Pretty red plum fruit flavour. Its tannins are a mite dry. STGT wine, faithful to its place. 2014-15 Nov 2008

2005

very dark. Elegant, continuous aroma with well-founded black stone fruits present. Black fruit with a crisp top note and rounded inner on the palate. The length is good, the tannins support well. A little olive in the flavour. Tannins need leaving till late 2008. Beau Vin. 2015-17 March 2007