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The Wines

80% Grenache (1970-1995), 15% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre mainly from clay-limestone soil on Les Routes next to Vacqueyras, destemmed (machine picked), 14-25 day vinification at up to 30°C, pumping overs only, steel & concrete vat raised 6-10 months, then aged 40-50 large hl barrel 12-18 months, 90% sold in bulk, “drink with red meats, stews, game, cheese such Beaufort, Comte”, has risen from 5,000 b to 74,500 b

2018

(concrete/steel vats) full red; the nose involves powdery airs, cooked plum, red berry fruits, notes of garrigue, briar, a hint of beef stock. The palate runs smoothly, offers refined red fruit content, polished tannins fitting in neatly. The fruit carries well, and the finish has a pumice stone crispness. It’s discreetly and agreeably aromatic on the aftertaste. 14.8°. 74,200 b. 80% Gren, 15% Syr, 5% Mourv. €14 at cellars.From 2022. 2041-43 Feb 2020

2017

full, dark red. The nose has some poise, shows prune, menthol, a nugget of thick blackberry. The attack bears soaked black cherry fruits with a likeable saltiness implicit, finishes with some purpose, carries vintage weight on the late stages. There is access to some of the cut of Gigondas, and the aftertaste reflects menthol, spearmint. The length is good, 15°. From spring 2021. 2038-41 Oct 2018

2015

shiny, dark robe; the bouquet brings in roast beef, ground force strength, carries a dark, prolonged, implicitly sweet aroma of deep black berry fruit. There’s a hint of reduction. The bouquet is rich, fat, closely packed, has muscle and likeable persistence, wears its heart on its sleeve. Big marks for character in this genuine, STGT Gigondas. The aftertaste is spiced, with menthol there. Decant it, and enjoy its lusty vigour. It will live well. 2037-39 Oct 2018

2014 ()

shiny, nicely full red robe; the bouquet is discreetly sweet, elegant, shows cooked red fruits, raspberry to the fore, sings a joli tune. The palate caresses with smoothly textured, flowing red fruits that have a kernel of concentration, a cherry stone aspect. The Grenache at its heart is genuine, and the finish clear, salted, with smoky cut. This gives harmony until the finish, will go well with lamb. 14.5°. 80% Gren, 15% Syr, 5% Mourv. 2031-33 Oct 2018

2013 ()

(vat/barrel) bright purple hue. Fragrant, leathery, plum and kirsch aroma on the nose: this is repeated on the palate. It gives a touch of Grenache sweetness, but also the freshness of the vintage. It shows fair length and presence on the finish. A competent mid-weight wine. 14°. From 2016. 2025-27 JL Dec 2014  

2012 ()

(vat/barrel) dark red, matt tone to the robe. Lots of cinnamon appear on the bouquet, with quince, cassis, spiced plum fruit – the aroma sustains well, will be a good platform for the palate. The palate offers enjoyable Grenache fruit, a spiced Gigondas clarity, holds a good, true red fruit with a degree of power well inside it. It builds core as it goes, takes on some drier tannins. Speaks of its warm lands, shows mineral cut at the end. Fennel and aniseed feature on the finish. From late 2015. 14.5°. 2024-26  Dec 2013

2011

shiny, promising dark red. Smoky, oily mulled fruits aroma, with tea and beefstock present, a blackberry compote; has a good, southern leaning, is ripe and brooding. There is a cedar, pine infusion in its prune, black fruit. A chalky snap comes along. It is disjointed for now, has a grounded, pebbly, menthol end. The fruit comes and goes. Pretty honest, a bit wild, is an honest, down to earth, traditional Gigondas. From 2015. 2022-24  Dec 2012

2004

(barrel) animal, fungal aroma – has stuffing in it. Solid fruit with a clean cut nature. This is tight-knit, upright, closed. Has some promise, and needs leaving until 2008. 2020-22 July 2005

2003 ()

even red robe. Softening, jam style red fruit aroma, also baked raisins – a mature style of bouquet. The palate delivers compressed red fruits with nice oily guts around them – this fleshes out cautiously on the finish where there are some assertive tannins. A steely, upright sort of wine. Red fruits such as cherry, also in a kirsch form, are foremost. Risk it may dry over time. To 2014. Nov 2008 Previously July 2005 *(*) quite a chunky nose – cold tea with a touch of game. Supple, full, soaked wine on the palate. It is pretty solid, but dried towards the finish. Red fruit or plum has fair quality, a little gummy in nature. 2012-13 July 2005

2002

low-key red with a transparent top. Resident red fruit aroma with wisps of raspberry coming out. This is at a drinkable stage, is not demanding, is very lucid, the red fruit rather nervy, but well up to a sauced chicken or grilled meat. The length is OK in the mild way of this uber-tricky vintage. Shows the freshness of Gigondas at the end. To 2011. Nov 2008 Previously July 2005 (*) middling colour; overtly peppered bouquet, lot of life in it, bit of mineral, rather extreme on that front. Pretty gutsy, full-on wine, pepper once more. Direct, needs more flesh. The content is rather burnt, bitter. 2007-08. July 2005

2001

red robe, slight top evolution. Beef stock, slight fungal air to this – it needs decanting to wake it up. The palate is at a measured stage – shows solid red fruits, a wine that is rather enclosed now. It has serious sinew and a cherry fruit reserve, the shape is upright. More a thinker`s than a gulper's wine. Tannins noted on the aftertaste. “I seek this style of wine in relation to the vintage and its age – it has maturity, and is a bit less on the fruit, but there is power in the palate. We eat venison with this, or a Comté cheese from our farm that would go with the 2003 also,” Laurent Chauvet. To 2019-22 Nov 2008 Previously July 2005 **(*) quite jammy, also smoked, berry aroma, earthy surrounds. Nicely wholesome attack, but rather sharp finale, tarry also. Unaffected local wine, touch of too much of the country essence in it. Still young, a little taut. The fruit could be richer. A classic for game, in winter or autumn. July 2005.

1995

full, attractive robe. The nose is well varied – cooked fruit and some leather airs, spice present. The palate is a problem as it stands: the acidity stands out, and it thins towards the finish. Seems stretched from its cellar work. Time may help a little. 2006-07  April 1999