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The Wines

80% Grenache, 15% Syrah (destemmed since 2001), 5% Mourvèdre (all av age 50 yrs), total 30% destemmed, 30 day vinification, pumping overs, part vat emptying/refillings, concrete vat raised 12 months, then 60% 600-litre, 18-31 hl large barrels 12 months, 40% vat, then all wine vat another 6 months, unfined, filtered, called Origine since 2012, was Tradition before, 40-55,000 b

2018 ()

(large barrel/casks) full red robe; the nose has grilling, a seared side, cooked red fruits, cherries, pork scratchings present, an impression of hot, baked stones. The palate is weighty, a trifle ponderous, bears slightly coated red fruit matter, with a little shaft of cut in the tannins. The aftertaste is gummy, lacks ping. The elements are jostling with one another for now, and order is required – leave until 2023-24. 14.5°. 80% Gren, 15% Syr, 5% Mourv. €17 at the cellars. 2042-44 Feb 2020

2017 ()

(large barrel/casks) dark red, full colour; the nose has grilling, smoky depth, a prolonged macerated black fruits aroma. It’s full, weighty. The palate holds succulent black-fruited content, has a little salt on the edges, the tannins a mite wayward, on the outside, grainy for now. This has character, holds implicit vigour, and will be suited to game stews, for example. The fruit has a note of blueberry towards the finish, which extends nicely. 14.5°. 85% Gren, 10% Syr, 5% Mourv. From 2021. 2039-41 Oct 2018

2016 ()

(cask/barrel/vat) shiny, dark red-black tinted robe. The bouquet is curvy, well filled with black cherry, some blackberry fruit, a hint of dried herbs, has a nice airborne aspect. The palate has an enjoyable intricacy, leaves room for the imagination. There are pockets of red and black berry fruits with tasty tannins to accompany them. The finish brings in sweet herbs, a local aggregation. This is harmonious and well presented, offers good detail, is an STGT wine. From 2020. 2039-42 Oct 2017

2015 ()

(cask/barrel/vat) dark red with a handsome shine. The nose is solidly filled with dark fruit, closely packed together. There is an inkling of detail, perhaps mulberry fruit. The palate bears compact, filled content with a development of spice and a ping of clarity as it goes past the mid-point. There is a cool feel throughout, even with the close-knit matter. The tannins add another leg of punchy freshness. There is a lip-smacking aftertaste. This joins the 2005 as a long-lived wine, with more reserve in its youth than the 2005. From 2020. 2039-42 Feb 2017

2014 ()

(concrete vat) good dark red robe. The bouquet is fat, shows reduction in its sweet front, curved airs of plum fruit foremost. The palate bears sleek red cherry fruit with a hint of spirit-liqueur in it, a southern throb of enhanced ripeness from the grapes’ sugars. The texture is easily coated. It lacks a little depth as it stands, ends in naked fashion, the crisp, ash style (cendré) tannins out on their own. It may amplify a little over time. 14°. €15.20. From 2019. 2027-29  Dec 2015

2013

(vat) shiny dark red colour. The nose is reserved in expression, but holds a confident depth of raspberry fruit, is lying low for now. There is a hint of reduction. The palate bears easy going content, with savoury moments, and a pliant set of tannins that only break out on the finish. There are lightly salted moments in the closing stages. A wine that is authentic, has the vintage tang within. From 2018. €15.20. 2029-31 Dec 2015  Previously Dec 2014 ***(*) (concrete vat) medium purple-garnet robe. The nose is lightly fragrant – has a raspberry, cherry nuance. The palate is supple and fresh, but with a streak of sweet Grenache running through it. It is firm and dry on the finish. Has medium fruit weight, but the structure for mid-term ageing. 14.5°. From spring 2016. 2027-29 JL Dec 2014

2012

(concrete vat, bottling in two years) dark, black tinted robe. Wide, masculine, intense but also polished bouquet: it bears a southern strength, but has an underlying potential for elegance; the fruit is ripe, sleek, clear. Bright, shapely fruit leads the palate; soaked black cherries feature, and it comes with plenty of oak, tobacco, tar, dark chocolate, black raisin packed in near the finish. It is fresh, and develops blueberry fruit and minted moments. It is a promising, assertive, heated wine. From late 2016. 14°. 40,000 b. 2030-32  Dec 2013

2011

(concrete vat, bottling in two years) shiny, quite dark red robe. There is a light sweet note in the bouquet – it offers blackberry with a tart crust, brioche, has a light herb sweetness, is still very young.  The palate starts gently, roundly, is plump in the middle, with careful, grainy tannins. It has an attractive, steely length. The tannins are interesting and helpful on the finish. Promising – this will gain over time. From 2016. “It has changed; before it was simple, but has now taken on amplitude, breadth and sucrosity,” Jean-Pierre Meffre. 2028-29  Dec 2012

2010

(vat, bottling in one year, Dec 2013) “I am in no hurry to bottle this, since it demands a long raising time,” J-P Meffre. Dark robe. Appealing, smoky whirl of nice fat and ripeness of black fruit on the nose, with light touch mineral and smoke. The palate extends with great assurance, no chinks, the fruit has dash and flair, lies well within it. The attack is cautious, but plenty is packed in here. Excellent balance. The fruit runs all around it - lots of it. From 2017-18. 2035-37  Dec 2012  Previously Dec 2011 ***(*) (barrel/vat) dark, shiny “here we go” robe. There is snap in the air on the nose, which is lined by dark fruit, cassis with a persistent licorice air: it is still very young and not varied. The palate delivers its fruit directly, with a fresh, currently steely side present. It is all rather metropolitan, spruced up, as it were. From 2016 for less oak, less technique. It is perfectly correct but I want more this year in my Gigondas 2010s (tasted blind). Pocket of late pepper in this. 14.6°. 2030-33 Dec 2011 Previously March 2011 (example) full red, purple. Good, steady bouquet, with no false airs, is all very homogenous and together, expresses herbal aromas. Juicy Grenache on the palate, plump and textured. Fine late tannins. Primo balance here. Promising wine. March 2011

2009

(vat) steady red robe. Unfinished business on a bouquet of fair promise, red berry Grenache here. For now it is a bit pongy, reductive, rough and ready. The palate red fruit is static, takes on chalky, pebbly tannins. A wine in transit, not arriving. It needs racking and bottling. There is potential charm. Not the greatest example or moment to assess this. From 2014. 2024-27 July 2011

2008 ()

(barrel) red robe, some depth. Black fruits, mulberry jam fruit aroma, that is also smoky, has toffee and treacle in behind. The palate has thicker content and texture than many 2008s – this is not necessarily a compliment, since it suggest intervention winemaking. The texture is sticky for now, gives a front of the mouth adhesion, is clumsy. From mid-2011. Patience needed for better. 2019-20 Dec 2009

2007 ()

(barrel) full robe. Biscuity, grilled aroma – bacon fat and oak fusing together, nice black cherry – and it is good and broad. Fine black cherry fruit on the palate, with an oak wrap around it, this has quiet class. The balance between the fruit and the oak is good. Polished, chocolate and toffee style finish. From mid-2011. 2021-23 Dec 2009

2006

good, shiny, attractive red robe. This has an absorbing bouquet, has great variety -  flowers, with its clay-iron features, combines maturity and freshness, has leather and light mint touches. The palate has supple, pretty bendy qualities – this reflects 2006 very well, and lasts with commendable freshness, too. It has a light touch, and shows that balance beats all alcohol levels. It shows the Burgundian finesse of Gigondas. After two hours open, it provides good kick on the finish, a Southern whack. 14.5°. 2017-28  Nov 2011  Previously Jan 2008 *** (barrel) dark red with magenta. The nose has quite rich red fruit on show – it comes with some snap and a pebbly effect: it keeps going well, has a little heat in it. On the palate, the red berry fruit has a full, veering towards dense make-up. Brisk wine that is still very primary. Its late length is OK as it tightens up. It needs leaving until into late 2010 to settle and combine the parts. Pretty clear wine with a sound future ahead. 2021-22 Jan 2008

2005

full red, dark centre; refined, promising nose – this shows very good, pure, ripe Grenache, comes with a polished air. Has a firm sideways run, real good constitution. Roll on the palate, I say. This is spiced, peppery, tight-knit and long. There is a good line of tasty tannin through it, that is surrounded by black fruits, so they have a tinkle of freshness about them. This is like a superior, more polished version of 1989. Extremely good, classic Gigondas. Drink for its great first youth appeal today, or be more sage and run with it from 2012-13, when more complexity. Has abundant promise. Has really benefited from its raising and bottling. 2030-33. Sept 2009 Previously June 2008 *** (vat, final stages of raising) dark, full plum colour; compact, woven berry aroma with something of the soaked red cherries (griottes) in it, but also some snap in a grainy air. The palate is round and smoothly textured, with some curved tannins. Ripe style of cropping, a later picking here (tasted blind). Some late power is detectable, a wee eau de vie element. A wine of lissom conditioning – black fruits, black cherries in style. Still young, a wine without a lot of nuance as yet. 2019-22 June 2008

2004

(vat) dark red. Wide, quite deep bouquet – the middle air is nutty, shows a potent side – kirsch – red fruit and leather is classic. Graceful fruit lies on the palate which is smoothly textured, really runs on well. The richness is well founded, with elegance in it. Good length. Promising wine, very clear, good quality, is demanding, warm on the finish now. Esp from 2009. 2018-20 Dec 2006 Previously July 2005 (vat) **(*) dark, tight robe. Oily, rounded, ample bouquet. Crisp fruit on attack, skips a bit in mid-palate. Freshly cut finish. Can live. Consistent evolution ahead, decent fullness without great depth. From 2008 to settle the tannins. I'd like to find more depth in mid-palate as it ages. 2018-21 "It reminds me of the freshness we used to have in our wines 10-plus years ago" J-P. M. July 2005

2003 ()

red core to the robe, with ruby tones on the top, upper areas. There is some dampness, sous-bois air within a ripe, mature fruit setting. The bouquet is still shaped with a generous curve – it is not yet peppered and there is good variety developing. On the palate, there is good grip in the fruit, since the wine still has spine. There is mature red fruit with a later leather/cocoa arrangement. The richness is intrinsic, and the finish comes with a full, sweet date style taste. The length is sound, and the wine is still pretty robust all round. 14°. 2017-19 June 2008 Previously (vat) **(*) soaked fruit, boisterous aroma – fruit lozenges in the air. Plenty of black fruit on the palate – clear cut, its richness is tasty. The tannins control the final one-third of the wine – deliver a nutty flavour there. Quite an elegant finish, but the aftertaste is dry now. Esp late 2007 on. 2016-18 July 2005

2002 ()

mid depth red; the nose is like cough medicine, with menthol and licorice. There is a touch of animal in the fruit, which has some fat in it. The trouble is, the wine risks being hard going, with a rather clumpy flavour of prune and animal. It is just between youth and a more varied second stage. Will be freer 2006-08. To 2008-09. July 2005

2001

good scale bouquet, profound and lasting aromas - some game, black fruit syrup. Interesting black fruits here, good combination of its elements. Fruit is accompanied by herbs, the wine is both full and decisive. Full and local, STGT style of wine. Good example of the vintage, too. 2017-19 July 2005

2000 ()

the nose is striking – it is taking on sous-bois, damp woods aromas; it is full, with some animal that can be aired out. There is a sweep of black fruit on the palate – the fruit soaked and just turning to a secondary stage. Tannins tighten it towards the finish. It is a little fresh on the finish – an interesting mix of sensations. The fruit is varied, and this has good local feel now, STGT. There are some of the harvest 2001 touches in it as well, and it all works well. Good now. 2016-18 July 2005

1992

still bright, the robe has traces of red in it. The nose reflects red fruits, berries, , has an air of burnt toast behind, dusty moments – very attractive bouquet. The palate has a calm red fruit display with a leathery nature developing late on. It drinks “soberly” now, has a little tannic siding, also shows floral airs on the finish, like the Trignon 1992. It is fresher than the Trignon, and has better grip. 13.5°. June 2010

1991

still dark robe; this has a thick air, is rather weighty, with chocolate, is full of beans – life – and has cut. The palate has a menthol thread, strong garrigue associations, with tannins present, and flavours of fig and prune. It lengthens with a light touch sweetness with a dish of pork, which brings out rosemary and spice at the end. “The menthol comes from the stems not being quite ripe; we started to destem a bit from 2001," Jean-Pierre Meffre. 13.5°. 2020-22  Dec 2011

1990

good, clear ruby red; shapely, sensaround bouquet of appealing sunny depth, sweet plums, toffee apple, has a buttery association. The palate produces typical Gigondas freshness, a spine of menthol-cut, comes with real good forward movement, carries spiced, Christmas box flavours. The aftertaste has a discreet thickness, which is the main clue as to the high sunshine hours of the vintage. It’s well orchestrated, well balanced, is a wine of detail, with lovely lift on the aftertaste. 14°. Day 2: nose is still vigorous, up front, more spiced than yesterday. Menthol and licorice prominent on the finish. This can certainly continue for another 15 years. Raised two years concrete vat, then 12 months in 18-30 hl large barrel or foudre. 70% Gren, 20% Syr, 5% Mourv, 5% Clairette blanche, Cinsault. 2033-36 Jan 2020 Previously Aug 2010 ****(*) still red robe, maturing plum. Rich, ripe aroma that gives a very good first impression. The air releases raisin, date, cedar. Lovely rich, full start to the palate: it is entering a damp phase, but the texture is ripe, the sides broad. It proceeds very clearly to a crisp finish. It is young for its twenty years – Grenache with a decisive, local Gigondas nature, STGT wine. Lovely with lamb in herbs. I know this wine well, having bought a lot of it, and it just keeps on going. 2025-30 Aug 2010 Previously Oct 1992 (concrete vat) ***** good dark purple robe. The bouquet is an earthy affair, lots of dark fruit and meaty, bosky aromas. The palate leads on striking fruit, really exemplary; it runs very well, the length is primo. There is good all-round substance here, very nice depth without being plush. This has great scope for the future. From 1995-96. 2019-22 Oct 1992

1987

pretty, bright robe with red still present. Coffee, licorice, menthol – a wide bouquet of fair depth. A little early prune on the palate, a scented sweetness. Has game, square-shaped, slightly yeasty notions. Solid, deep-seated wine that passes along the palate well. 2016-18 July 2011 Previously March 2009 *** orange robe tinted with red – has a rich look about it. There are stale mushroom notes in the air at first, but these disappear after 20 minutes. There is also a fresh note, with red fruits lightly present, and spice. Gently rounded on the palate. this has a smooth texture. Its red baked fruit stops a little short, but it has been well achieved given the difficult crop brought in. Its finish moves towards a little acidity, a clear freshness and a herbal tang, the sign-off being licorice which underlines its relative freshness. There is a minor lining of tannin here. 14°. 2016-18 March 2009

1986

good, deep and bright robe; menthol aroma in a pretty, fresh bouquet, marhces along with leather and blackberry, graphite, the air of organic matter. The palate sets off running, out it goers. Has really attarctive mobile fruit that dances with life. “The Trignon Valley allows freshness,” Jean-Pierre Meffre. This is in very good shape, and reflects the vintage well. 2018-20 on this showing, a bottle straight out of J-P`s cellar. July 2011 Previously Feb 1991 ***(*) good looking dark plum; warmth, ripness on bouquet. Good richness on palate, but not a blockbuster, is mid-plus in weight, quite succulent. More depth than a 1985, bit more structure and complexity than that. To late 1990s. Feb 1991

1984 ()

ruby red; the aroma is a mix of dung, compost and menthol – it still has the “clack” of green fruit in it, modest levels of ripening. But there is a lot more than one would expect – it is wide and consistent. The palate has big body for this vintage, is thorough on its level, without having precise features. An Impressionist wine that remains incredible for its year, given its very difficult start. Cocoa and black raisin show on the aftertaste. “It wasn’t a ripe year at all; as it was the birth year of my son, I have a lot of bottles. It is a small vintage par excellence,” Jean-Pierre Meffre. 14°. 2019-20  Dec 2011

1981

ruby robe, with a solid centre. Coffee, cocoa, polished leather aromas precede a sweeter, fig or fig jam influence, then come smoky, woody airs. The shape is upright – it holds matter that is fresh, a little strident or anxious, as if its tannins never gave ground over time. It ends on a fresh note, markedly so. It needs more inset of richness within its rather wiry frame. Tasting it without food is unfair – it would be good with game bird dishes such as a pheasant casserole, and would benefit from airing. After 20+ minutes, the nose reflects fig more, the palate amplifies and its edge becomes rounder: the tannins do give ground. After one hour, the nose is peppery, and there has been a gain in mild gras on the palate. 2019-21 Oct 2010 Previously Aug 1985 **** good dark red, plus black colour, is brilliant, very pretty. Solid bouquet with good, lurking fruit, potential. Blackstrap wine on the palate, a big fellow, and its very agreeable tannins still abound. Finishes a little short, but can live and extend further. August 1985

1980

dark colour; berry, cherry fruit aromas. Nicely weighted palate, good early fruit, showing well, can soften, tannins show up on finish for now. Can live to the early 1990s. Raised in 35 hl barrels. 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre June 1986

1979

the robe is a little deeper than the 1981 tasted at the same time – it is a full ruby, brown, a mahogany colour. Sweet tea aroma with suggestions of fruit in it, fruit such as fine ripe plums, wild strawberry jam, very ripe quince, alo nuts. The palate has a welcoming debut – it smiles its southern charm, the flavour leans towards a spiced red jam, a mix of plums and dates or figs. It lengthens well, is steady as she goes. This is good, even ace wine. The noble virtues of old wine lie in its charm and unpretentious representation of cooler zone Grenache – hence its fresh, slightly mineral ending. A reminder that it comes from red clay-limestone, stony soils. Excellent length, with the finesse of flowers that you sometimes find on the best, mature Gigondas. It tightens after 20 minutes, showing its aged delicacy. 2017-19 Oct 2010 Previously Jan 1982 ***** very bright dark purple; nice dark bouquet, lots of promise. Very full palate – a lot of blackcurrant fruit and tannins still locked in. Well made wine, good balance. In another five years it will be sensational, and can live longer, of course. “I smell truffles on my wine,” Roger Meffre. Jan 1982

1978

a magnum, that kept on improving over hours: good depth in the robe – shows a bright, plum red, with an orange-brick top. Has a really suave lateral aroma that glows with wellbeing, and reflects the ripeness of its crop. It is very well-balanced, has a light coffee drift. The palate also possesses a silken texture right away. The early to mid-palate is tasty – flavouring of cooked plums here. It develops a fired-up, slighly burnt stage near the finish, which stays on the end. Certainly still a big wine, but never hot. It spent the whole day gaining in weight, and the nose became pure garrigue, with menthol in it - that freshness. Ace with a Corsican brébis goat cheese called Brun de Maquis. Pure joy. 2022-24 Oct 2010

1977

bright ruby robe, with a mild orange-lemon top. Has a musty, rather fungal air suggestive of cardboard, also peanut. The palate is clearer, more precise, before drying notes enter after half way. There is still gras in this, though. The attack offers a grainy plum flavour. It has some of the fine scent of good, old Gigondas, plus the local gras. 2015-17 Oct 2010

1975 ()

steady ruby robe, mild tone, and still far from being brick-coloured. This has a sympa, sweet-noted bouquet – there are toffee-date aromas here, with a snap from cinnamon and clove spices. The palate offers agreeable richness – its sweetness has also held up very well, so it is broad across the palate – it hits its walls well. There is a little late tightening, tar. Flavour of orange marmalade on the glow of the aftertaste, and I find a soft, floral pot-pourri influence in its flavour. Good wine, still right there, amazing for the vintage in question. Another example of a lesser year ageing well. 2019-22 Oct 2010