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The Wines

80% Grenache (1920s and older), 20% Mourvèdre (1970s), whole bunch, 6-8 week vinification, part vat emptying/refillings, then some pumping overs, raised on lees, aged 50 hl large barrel 10-15 months, unfined, unfiltered, first wine 2001, organic wine, 15-20,000 b

2018 ()

(large barrel) full robe; the bouquet brings in incense, spicing, varnish, soaked black cherries with a little floral musk. It’s a firm, assured opening. The palate is oaked, threaded with a floral presence, has a soft gras at its centre, with supple tannins curving around the finish. It’s a plump, aromatic, spiced, oaked Gigondas a little on the top heavy side. 14.5°. 20,000 b. 80% Gren, 20% Mourv. €14.5 at the cellars. From 2023. 2040-42 Feb 2020

2016 ()

(barrel) shiny dark red. The nose leads on a sweet tone of blackberry fruit, is curvy, and shows oak-caramel. It’s not yet at all varied. The palate holds wavy red fruits, has good style, and a very precise appeal, a Burgundian take on the table here. It builds into a darker, more southern depth as it finishes. This shows off the detail of this successful vintage. There is brilliance in the fruit sign-off. From 2022 to allow oak to meld into it, and for more variety of expression. I suspect it will remain young for quite some time. 15°. 15,000 b. 2037-40 Oct 2017

2014 ()

(barrel) dark red robe. Blueberry, blackberry lead aroma, a bouquet with limits for now. There is a little sweetness at its heart; it can develop and vary further. The palate is round, smooth, holds black berry fruit with pretty streamlined tannins. It is a little arm’s length in feel, a touch too polished. I would drink this around 2020 and hope for a bit more rock n’roll, less of a spotless production. 15°. 2026-27  Dec 2015 

2013 ()

sober plum red robe. The nose has a baked nature, offers a compressed red fruit juice with overt, direct spicing. It is just a little clipped, not expansive. The palate carries red berry fruit, but the tannins are gummy and drying from the mid-point. Not sure whether this can enlarge, and flourish on the late palate. It drifts on the close. 14.5°. 20,000 b. €12. From mid-2016. 2024-25  Dec 2015 Previously Dec 2014 **(*) (barrel, bottling March 2015) purple-garnet hue – light at the rim. The nose is a little sweaty and worked. The palate is sweet on the attack, the mid-palate short and the tannins rustic on the finish. Perhaps a touch of green here? 14.5°. 15,000 b. €12 at the cellars. From 2016. 2022-23  JL Dec 2014

2012 ()

(barrel, bottling March 2014) dark red with purple; some sweet wild strawberry jam air here – the bouquet holds up comfortably, is all as one, has a pastry tart note as well. The palate offers a squeezy, soaked red berry fruiting, with fine tannins adding a more dusted note – there is a well orchestrated entrance from them. Understated but natural Gigondas without forcing, undue emphasis. It will settle its small point of late acidity. Its nature is soaked, and it isn’t especially fresh. Will provide good drinking around 2017. 15°. 2025-26  Dec 2013

2010 ()

(barrel) dark, shiny robe. Has a well held together, compact aroma – black raisin, toffee, a semblance of truffle, berried fruit at its centre – it has snap and intensity. Juicy, flowing, softly scented black fruit on the palate, offering elegant waves of flavour. It shows the smooth gras of 2010 on the attack, its tannins completely harmonising with it. Fine late acidity keeps its mobile. An elegant Gigondas. From mid-2014. 2029-31 Dec 2011

2008 ()

rather shiny, evolving robe with a red centre. Gentle, floral and lightly spiced red jam fruit aroma, Christmas influences such as date here. Mature Grenache, a traditional style wine that is a touch yeasty late on. It drinks with some stream of black juice, tar shows up late on. Not fresh enough for some. Suited to stews etc, hearty dishes. 2015-16 July 2011 Previously Dec 2009 ** (vat/barrel) plum red robe that will turn early. Red cherry liqueur lead on the nose – shows dried cherries, kirsch, is quite broad, also herbal. Day 2 gives honey, cassis. Concentrated late ripening on the palate – has a false sweetness within its compact make-up. Is a sweet pleaser without necessarily having the real foundation to work from for the future. From mid-2011. 2018-19 Dec 2009

2007 ()

(vat/barrel) dark robe, mauve rim. Still very primary aroma, post-fermentation even, focuses on sweet black fruit, damp leaves here, too. Supple black jam fruit flavour. This is open, easy to drink now, though some tannins show up late on. It ends on a sweet note that is not entirely convincing. Just a bit tame. I want more roar. 2018-19 Dec 2009

2006

(barrel) dark black core to the robe; has a primary, crunchy black fruit aroma with an oily air behind – it is nutty from its oaking, and has some overall sweetness and raisin in it. Blackberry flavour on a rather masculine palate; the fruit is upright, with a tarry tannic lining on either side of the palate. It ends on a charcoal, rather burnt note. The attack is superior to the finish today. From 2010. 2017-18 Jan 2008

2005 ()

black plum robe; smoky aroma – coffee with a little oily inlay, black fruits laced with prune: this bouquet is largely upright, a waiter. The palate starts in a restrained way – there is plum fruit with a charcoal gain as it goes, and it ends still rather unformed, towards black pepper and cocoa, for instance. There is punch and some muscle inside this. A wine of some potential. Its fruit is not that bright, but it is well set to accompany the other elements. From spring 2009. 2018-20 June 2008

2003

the only wine this year: plum, dark red. Crunchy, charcoal, prune aroma that is still fresh and upright, holding well. The palate fruit is grainy, a little narrow: this is a wine that needs drinking, its finish dry. It can be drunk with a game stew, a hare civet, for instance. Most was sold in bulk to merchants this year. To 2009. Nov 2008