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The Wines

70-100% Grenache (1940s-1960s), 0-20% Syrah, 0-10% Mourvèdre from S/S-W facing sandy marl soils, fermented separately, destemmed, 23-28 day vinification at 25°C, in an open large wood barrel, cap punching, aged new 228-litre oak casks 18 months (2010 aged new-1-year oak casks 24 months), filtered, heavy bottle, 1,200-2,000 b

2017

(new casks) dark red, black-tinted robe. The bouquet brims with ripeness, a really solid, savoury filling, shows pine-oak with its copious dark fruits. The palate holds some stylish, still very raw content with assertive chalked, rocky tannins that rule the second half. There is pine-oaking in it that intrudes to some extent. The length is sustained, with liberal amounts of plunging Grenache fruit towards the finish, where there is some oak dryness. This is bold, oaked Gigondas. 100% Grenache. From 2022. 2038-40 Oct 2018

2016 ()

(casks, bottling May 2018) dark red colour. The nose has a chalky cut inside some thick, sturdy, ripe raspberry liqueur, with a tang of blood oranges, a hint of rose-hip. It’s stimulating, varied, and announces a large wine in the offing. This has great heart, is a really thorough Gigondas with meatiness and raw, blood-like appeal. It’s filled with plum fruits, spiced tannins, and is still running like a locomotive as it finishes into a wild landscape of pepper and solid content. 15°. 1,200 b. €32. From 2021, decanting very much advised. 2036-39 Oct 2017

2013 ()

(casks) red robe. Reduction shows on the nose, a pong from that, a lot of farmyard (this is 25% Syrah, 25% Mourvèdre, with only 50% Grenache). There is a cooked plum, pumped up aroma with pine notions attached from oaking. It is a Big Brew. The palate has a liqueur, soaked fruits style, is full on. This is something of a concoction, designed by the committee. It holds concentrated raspberry juice, with the oak clamping down the gras on the late moments, leaving a pine sign-off. For lovers of high octane, pushed along wine. 15°. 1,200. €30. From 2019. 2026-28  Dec 2015 

2010 ()

(casks) sober plum colour with a good centre. Wavy, mulled red stone fruits aroma that has a plump density. The bouquet is a bit weighty, near a liqueur style. The palate is compact, with layers of sealed-up red fruit – a fat Grenache debut. It extends into grainy, rather searching areas due to its oaking and its currently scratchy tannins. A wine that has been asserted in the cellar, with new oak at its core. Needs leaving until 2017. I find the clash of Grenache and new oak here. The aftertaste is gummy. The longer it is left, the better it will be, but I find the new oak in small casks excessive, especially when there is much Grenache involved. 2028-29 Dec 2011

2009

the robe is advancing – has a dull, matt top rim. Has a spiced, Christmas time style aroma – the scents and spices of the east, a hint of “cream” red strawberry jam, and coriander airs. Oily-textured debut to the palate, then it grips, has a tarry seasoning, leather elements. Is not a fresh dandy, never was. Has body, is suited to stews, mature hung lamb or mutton, a tajine. OK to drink now, even though not yet bottled. €18.13 export price, too high. 2019-20 July 2011

2006

full red plum colour. Oily, brewed black fruits aroma, with pine resin sides – it is quite bountiful, has a ripe plum air. The palate comes with a core heartiness, the red stone fruit moved along by some glycerol and power. Has a broad frame, its tannins are inset, and it develops a chewy, filled ending. The length is good. Gutsy, authentic wine. A little late oak and charcoal on the aftertaste. A wine of good potential that is nearly ready – from mid-2009. 2017-19 Nov 2008 Previously Jan 2008 ****(*) black plum. Raisin aroma, with sweetness in it, some richness – it is scaled up, even shows some alcohol. Black berry fruit on the palate is vigorous, has plenty of live appeal, a real good hit of fruit and matter. This works well, has local appeal, towards STGT. It ends clearly, showing raisin and menthol, then prune. The clarity on the finish is a good card to play. From mid-2009. 2021-23 Jan 2008

2004 ()

quite dark robe. Brewed berry aroma, sprinkled with tea, soaked fruits. The palate is quite rich, but this wine is rather overdone – its width and length are pushed. Plenty of guts, has a smooth by design texture. An extraction-led wine, which dries at the finish, loses its content there and tannins stand out. From 2008. 2012-13 Dec 2006