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The Wines

55-70% Grenache (1940s-1970s), 15-35% Syrah (some 1970s, most late 1980s), 10-15% Mourvèdre (1970s) from Les Augues (Grenache, sandstone), La Curnière (Grenache, Mourvèdre, pebbles on clay-limestone), Les Saints Papes (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, clay-limestone), Les Débats (Grenache, Syrah, pebbly gravel clay-limestone above sandstone), hand harvested, destemmed (was mostly whole bunch fermentation until early 2010s), wild yeasts, 3 week vinification (down from 4-5 weeks into early 2010s), pumping overs, daily cap punchings, part vat emptying/refilling, lees stirring at up to 29°C, concrete vat raised 6 months, unfined, filtered, wide bottle, organic wine, 5,000-19,500 b

2018 ()

full red robe; the bouquet carries reduction, so this needs decanting. There is a sweet air of cooked plum at its centre, a notion of dried herbs. The palate bears crisp red fruited content, a positive vegetal note that brings a cendré-ash, menthol presence. The finish is juicy enough to be clear. 13.95°. 15,330 b. 55% Gren, 35% Syr, 10% Mourv. €15. From mid-2021. 2034-36 Feb 2020

2016 ()

dark red colour. The nose carries a stewed fruits aroma, shows some damp earth from its reduction, no doubt a Syrah contribution. The palate is fat, expansive, the content plump. The tannins are largely in the wheel. It’s a traditional wine suited to stews and casseroles. The length is sound, with a note of menthol on the close. It’s threaded with spice, is quite typical. The tannins could be a little more refined. 14.5°. 19,000 b. 70% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Mourv. From mid-2019. 2028-29 Feb 2018

2015

fine red robe. The nose is attractive, evocative of warm summer airs, with strawberry fruit prominent, a hint of baking. The palate is lightly spiced, with tender red berry fruit. It is on a line of freshness, is very much a natural, non-interventionist wine, with perfume and grace at its heart, all serenely presented. There is a little lip smacking content on the peppery finish. It takes a Burgundian rather than an overt Mediterranean route. Marks for style here. Decant it. 14.5°. 8,000 b. &0% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Mourv. 2023-24 March 2017

2014 ()

dark red robe. The nose is obviously reduced, so this needs at least double decanting. There is a latent air of black cherry fruit. The palate is clearer than the nose, holds lissom fruit and tannin, just a nudge of darkness from the tannins on the finish. There is spicing through it. It has inherent quality, with the reduction in the way for now. 14°. 6,500 b. €11 export. 70% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Mourv. From 2017. 2022-23  Dec 2015

2013 ()

crimson colour. The nose is a little sweaty and reductive. The palate is soft and fruity on the attack, but rather fades on the finish. This is touch fluid and lacking in depth. 14°. Drink from end 2015. 70% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Mourv this year, 5,000 b. €9.80. To 2018 JL Dec 2014

2012

pretty, dark colour; the nose combines raspberry fruit with well-collected blackberry – there is good glow, good spark in it, and also a leaning towards depth, the fundamental. The palate is lined by tight, grainy tannins, the fruit restricted as a result, while the length is limited. This I judge to be under the influence of its bottling, and should extend further with time. Decant it. From mid-2014. 70% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Mourv this year, 5,000 b. 2018-19  Dec 2013

2011

dark red robe with a full centre, rich aspect. The nose floats along on blackberry fruit aromas, hints of game, laurel, a pretty fat – there is a plump note to this bouquet. The palate bears supple black cherry fruit with a small, neat gras core, which isn’t especially extended as yet. A soft approach Vacqueyras with a fluid style of fruit, before density increases on the finish, where notes of tea and toffee turn up. Quiet but sound wine. From mid-2014. 14°. 70% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Mourv this year. 2020-21  May 2013

2009

graceful, aromatic, soft, mulled fruits air. Supple debut to the palate that runs with a fine line of tannin – this has a very good and precise backbone. A fine wine with no false make-up, has a good plum-Grenache heart. It lengthens well, is elegant and fresh on the finish. Natural and appealing. Only 28 hl/ha yield this year. 2019-20 March 2011

2007 ()

purple, black cherry, top violet – the robe is attractive. Restrained, compact black fruits, cassis fruits aroma, comes with an air of baked stones. The palate is clean-cut, its fruit flows with a little tannin. Pure wine. Can be drunk now, no problem, is a w.o.w. wine. Good with a grilled rib of beef, for instance. “I give it 5 to 7 years of life, it will be perfect in 2010,” J-L Faraud. 2013-14 Nov 2008