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The Wines

70% Grenache (1940s and older), 20% Syrah (mid-1970s), 10% Cinsault (mid-1970s), hand harvested, whole bunch fermentation or very partly destemmed, 3 week vinification, wild yeasts, cap punchings, pumping overs, aged large oak barrels (before early 2010s aged 228-litre oak casks) 12 months, unfined, filtered, organic wine, 7,700 b

2018

(oak barrel) quite a full red colour; the bouquet gives the garrigue in a nutshell – mixed, sweet herbs, soaked red fruits, some floral musk, a topping of power. The palate attacks well, picks up the floral theme, has good rockiness in the late stages, ends with a mineral underpin below the red fruits, and a little oak coating of the texture. It has captured the rays of sun of 2018, but the terroir influence renders it an ensemble. It’s genuine Gigondas, marks for character. 14.5°. 70% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Mourv. €39 at cellars. From 2023. 2043-45 Feb 2020  £110/6 b in bond The Wine Society +44(0)1438 741177 https://www.thewinesociety.com/openingoffer/Overview.aspx?offercode=wrh181

2017 ()

(large barrel) dark red colour; the bouquet is aromatic, carries the extreme ripeness of the vintage via its prune, date and spice aromas, could be an Oriental bazaar here. The palate is chunky, concentrated with thick content, releases only a bare modicum of slow-moving black juice. The fruit has some pedigree. This can only be drunk in small sips, is OK, but . . . I crave more drinkability, I have to say. 70% Gren, 20% Syrah, 10% Cinsault. From 2021. 2037-39 Oct 2018

2016 ()

(oak barrel) dark red with sheen. The bouquet is an intricate but full affair, assembles various prompts – there is a grapey, raspberry fruit tenor, with black raisin, menthol notes. The palate gives an easy roll of raspberry fruit, strawberry liqueur, with tannins that are chunky for now, the aftertaste on some dark, tarry depth. It’s very much under its raising, but breathes good, local strength and integrity. This is big wine, with more to it than meets the eye. From 2020-21. 2035-38 Oct 2017

2015

(oak barrel) dark red colour. The nose is bold, sealed with black fruit, some raspberry, is hardly at all on the move as yet. There is a savoury and menthol note attached. The palate bears delicious, spiced black fruit content with real elegance of delivery beyond its dark tannins. This has a proper long life wine structure, and will be great drinking after ten years or more. It has excellent freshness, and runs with real purpose all along the palate, the very long finish delivered on the up. This captures the imagination. It is big VALUE. From 2021. 2038-41 Feb 2017 GB £99 6 b i/bond The Wine Society www.thewinesociety.com/enprimeur +44(0)1438 741177

2014

(barrel, bottling April 2016) sober, quite dark red. The nose gives a soft display of jelly-like blackberry with blackcurrant fruit, a sweet, nurtured appeal at its centre. There are drifts of garrigue dustiness. This drinks elegantly, just a tickle of crisp tannin on the aftertaste. The flavour centres on blackberry, loganberry, and is nicely intense and sustained. It is quietly thorough, has pedigree. 14.5°. €25. Whole bunch fermentation this year. From mid-2017. 2027-29 GB £78/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com Dec 2015 

2013

(barrel) quite a dark red; blackberry aroma in an oily, attractively deep bouquet – there is a comfortable ripeness about it, hence some sweetness. The palate has a good core of supple, sure fruit, red fruits. Fine tannins lock in towards the finish. This is stylish in the making; for now, it is reserved, and not showing a lot. There is good weight in mid-palate. From 2018. 2029-31  Feb 2015 Previously Dec 2014 *** (cask) garnet-purple hue on the robe, which is pale at the rim. There are red fruit and kirsch notes on the nose. The attack is sweetly fruited, the Grenache a little more evident than the other varieties. A touch of spice shows on the palate, with a note of herbs note as well. It finishes dry, but with a slight bitter note. From late 2016. 2025-27  JL GB £192/12 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com GB £83/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com  Dec 2014

2012 ()

(cask, bottling April 2014) matt dark red; ripe, round red berry fruit, caramel and a little sweetness in the form of dates. The bouquet is set up to charm with a steady, ripe depth, almost a rose-hip fragrance. The palate develops a saline note after a calm, round, red-fruited start – it releases pronounced toothy freshness. This will be shapely, clear, free and enjoyable, is major STGT wine. Once its acidity has been sorted out, off we go. Its finishing flourish is impressive and long, as it picks up tarragon and other herbs as it signs off. Rock on Tommy wine, bags of character.Burgundy meets Gigondas – this has great, drinkable quality. From 2016. Glad that this now large barrel, more neutrally, raised. 14.5°. €22. 2029-31  Dec 2013

2011 ()

(cask) mild red. The aroma is sweetly ripe, holds a bouncy air of black pepper, also tar and coffee. Prune fruit and raspberry feature at its heart. It gives a clear snap overall, is well-defined. The palate picks up the black pepper, clove influence, and straightens out as it goes. Has just enough content to evolve safely; its overt spiciness shows that the ripening of the crop was on the edge – hence there is a feel of slight dilution towards the finish. Oak drifts in and out of it. A very spiced wine with aromatic red fruit circulating. It needs to, but can, knit together. Quite interesting. From 2015. €22 at the cellars. 2024-26  Dec 2012

2010 ()

(casks) mottled red, ruby drift across top of the robe. Smoky red berry, cedar-pine influences on the nose, a good mixing up of a herbal-garrigue presence with red berry. The palate comes in a baked red fruit style, with core richness or gras in it. It is not part of the fresh school; there is a subdued but gras finale, possibly limited scope there, since it ends abruptly more than extensively. Grenache red berry features on the aftertaste. It seems subdued, and is a cooked up Gigondas, already with evolution in this cask sample. May well be better judged after bottling. From 2013. 2024-26 Dec 2011

2009 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED – HAIL ON 24 APRIL

2008 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2007

(casks) full, bright robe. Has a ripe, assertive black cherry and licorice aroma that is fat. The palate is underlaid by fine, pebbly tannins within its black prune fruit flavour, one that runs freely. Good, fresh finish. This is set to go well from mid-2011, is a structured wine of good length: just needs to achieve a bit more roundness on the finish. 2020-22 Dec 2009 Previously Nov 2008 (casks) ***(*) full, dark robe; bountiful, long hang time fruit aroma – soaked and splattered with black berries, and sweet tea. The palate is also a full, replete affair – the black fruit combines with an oaking that shifts it along from half way, and it ends on some of that oak in the form of a charcoal taste. Dense wine that has a good late charge in it. Herbal and garrigue tones scan the palate, which is on an upright tack for now. From late 2010. 2021-22 Nov 2008

2006

(casks) black plum hue to the robe. Streamlined black fruits aroma, with a hint of oaking, but also outrider airs such as honey and sage, is polished in style. The palate has a “savoury” start, is almost plush – there is a sweet tone to the fruit, with some built-in richness. I wonder if the malo was done in oak. It ends slightly flat, should be bottled. Drink from late 2009. 2017-19 Jan 2008

2005

bright black colour, with a little mauve on the top rim. There is an air of reduction about a finely tuned nose that bears ripe black fruits, and some light herb influences – it is not overdone in style. The palate holds well fashioned fruit, and shows some juicy early moments. Then it settles and closes, without aggression. There is good flow here, it is a pleaser with a smooth texture. From spring 2009. There is plenty going for it, a beau vin with good length. 2019-21 June 2008

2004 ()

quite bright, full red. Red fruits aroma that offers a savoury appeal, and the light scent of herbs. Supple, easy red fruit, very Grenache attack. Has a wait and see character, so wait until 2009 and expect gummy, rounded red fruits. Good quality texture, all knit together. Better once its oak has departed. 2016-18 Dec 2006

2003 ()

quite a dark robe. Oily, cassis, ripe black berry aroma with some game in the air, also ground coffee – is definitely a southern wine. Weighty, full form of Gigondas on the palate – it rocks out, is another southern child with a sweet tone, but also a precise, controlled finish of herbal, black prune fruit. Interesting variety in the flavour. Tar, mocha, quite challenging aftertaste. 2014-15 Dec 2006

1996 ()

handsome robe – plum slight brick presence. The nose is inviting, and solid – it is broad, sustained, bears light spice and a good fruit core. The palate has a firm debut, mixes up its oak with a red fruit, plum and rather resinous late stage. The Grapillon d’Or 1996 tried at the same time is more spiced – this is more solid, the oak props it up and sustains the finish, also clouding direct access to the Grenache a little. 14°. 2018-20 June 2010