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The Wines

100% Syrah from 1950s and earlier on mica schist soils on Landonne, destemmed, cold maceration then 20 day vinification, aged 40% new (down from 70% from early 2010s on), 30% 1-year 228-litre oak casks 16-18 months, unfined, lightly filtered, first wine 1997, 3,600 b (up from 2,500-2,700 b in late 2000s)

2018

(cask) dark red, mauve top. The nose is perfumed in a musky way, with lush dark berry fruits attached, is an open, generous start. The palate is immediately expressive, offers rolling cherry fruits with a little cut, grain in the tannins, along with late oaking, vanilla, with licorice. It’s a warm vintage Rôtie, channels Southern ripeness and fleshy content along its path, but also carries late detail in its juice. It has a supple, almost copious tone. From 2022. 2043-45 Nov 2019

2017 ()

(casks) dark, filled robe. The nose has depth, presents blackberry fruit with pockets of oaking, a little blood-iron in the trail. It’s a solid start. The palate is shapely, has good structure and enjoyable fruit that is free in its delivery, the length sustained en finesse, a little quiet. This is stylish, inviting, and will live well, its balance good. 100% Syrah. 13.5°. From 2021. 2039-41 Dec 2018

2016 ()

(cask) the robe is dark red with black centrally. Oak smoke is prominent, leads the nose which is grilled, beefy, potentially exuberant. There are decisive outcrops of blueberry and cassis fruit, dark and smouldering. The palate bears a cordite tone from the oak and the granite, serves a punchy run of black cherry mixed with charcoal. It holds lots of good, unbridled fruit. This is still right in the cellar, on its raising, but has the energy and filling to do well. I would leave it until 2022 to make sure the oak was well integrated. There is spark in its late delivery, from the terroir. 2036-38 Nov 2017

2015 ()

(cask) dark red. The nose gives a supple aroma of red fruits, raspberry, with an inkling of sweet oak, herbes de Provence, licorice. The palate bears red berry fruits with likewise mild tannins, is curvy and open, easy to approach. This is a safe version of the vintage, without the brio of the best; it tends to float too much. The finish brings in flexible tannins, soft fruits. 14°. 3,600 b. From mid-2018. 2034-36 Oct 2016

2014 ()

(casks) dark red robe. The nose gives a streamlined air of cassis fruit with some style about it, and a note of licorice as well. The palate holds jolly juicy content, rather flashy in its currently open appeal. The tannins are mild, clear. Attractive, gentle wine in the making. €140 at the cellars. From 2018. 2028-30  Oct 2015

2013 ()

(casks) dark red colour. Has a weighty nose led by airs of mulled fruits, soaked plum and a sweet strawberry jam. This is also full on the palate: there is a rather laden version of the vintage here. Has plenty of unfinished business. Its sound length is an encouragement. From 2017. €140 at the cellars, wowee, that is high. 2029-32  Jan 2015

2012 ()

(casks) quite a bright dark red. The nose is an elegant affair, all together – it mixes mineral, light violet, has an understated sweetness that appeals, tar and treacle from its oak raising. The palate is suggestive, charming: it is all very pliant, supple, provides a soft coating of cassis and black cherry. The tannins are mild, have a light grain element - dark, grainy smudges. The length is fair. It needs 30 months to bring together its parts, but longer to gain weight and depth. A polished wine that skims a little. From 2016. 2030-33  Nov 2013

2011

(casks, bottling April 2013) dark red robe. Oily, rather thick aroma, a red berry paste with a tobacco tang, soaked red cherries with a light touch of leather. The palate has a cautious density, with a genuine gras centre. It tones down in its late moments, but the attack takes it a fairly long way through the palate. It has a precise knot of tannins that are savoury on the finish. A supple Côte-Rôtie via its red fruit and its aroma of rose or pot-pourri dried flowers. From 2015. 2029-31  Nov 2012

2010

dark, filled robe. Poised, inviting bouquet of lovelt fragrance – violet and blackberry, it is succulent and perfumed, a belle combination, impressive: there is a lot of berry depth, and a young, for now smoky, side. The palate reveals light footsteps of black berry and grainy, delicate accuracy of place and vintage. It develops its tannins darkness and grip in steady stages, so ends on tarry, concentrated fruit. Interesting and fulfilling. Has a sizzled bacon flavour as well. From 2016, say. 13.5°. 2036-39  Nov 2012  Previously June 2011 ****** (casks) dark robe; scented, fine floral aroma accompanies the prune, ripe black fruit airs that have black raisin present. Good early bite in the palate fruit; this has texture, scale and coats the palate. A broad, unleashed, Hound of the Baskervilles Côte-Rôtie. It is big, imposing and thorough, and really makes a strong, colourful impression. There are mineral threads in the late stages. It will be much appreciated. It declares lots of flavour, lots of bright appeal. The degree is only 13°-13.4°. From 2014. 2033-35 June 2011

2009 ()

full, dark red; the nose is persistent – shows smoky bacon, notions of rugged outcrops, pebbly heat – there is a southern tone to this, the heat of the south, with a mineral breeze to clarify it. Thorough, consistent palate which leads on mineral-flecked black fruit, is intricate, has smoky, rubbed stones in its mix. There is a touch of sucrosity from its lees raising for now, a temporary stage. It is less open than the Maugiron 2009 now. A gradual improver and developer over time. From mid-2013 or 2014. 13.5°. 2032-34 June 2011

2008 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED – in Seigneur de Maugiron

2007 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED – vineyard hit by mid-summer hail. Remaining wine went into Seigneur de Maugiron.

2006

gentle red robe; the bouquet is almost heavy – it is very full, and holds its own in the glass: it offers red fruits with an implication of oak, and a touch of graphite in back. The palate has a caress of flavour, a measured elegance of textured red fruit that develops a more reserved stage from its oak and nut surround. An ample wine, which needs leaving until late summer 2011 to lose more of its oak, and to develop a more fruited end. 13.5°. 2027-29 Nov 2009 Previously Jan 2008 ***(*) (cask) black plus red robe that is thorough all the way up. The nose bears chocolate with wisps of violets, flowers, within: is not all frilly, since there is some meatiness, and also black pepper from the oak. The first hit on the palate is oak, with a firm black fruit. The oak renders the texture firm, and that prevails now, making the wine a closed affair. There is some blackberry fruit inside. The length shows richness, a three-quarter weight wine that is pretty persistent. Keeps going well. Now is a bit austere and upright. From 2011-12, say. 2026-28 Jan 2008

2005

thorough, black plum, cherry robe. The nose is broad and well woven, nice and complete, therefore promising. Shows black fruit with a little bit of the mulled nature in it, some crème de blackberry, plus clarity off the schist of la Landonne. The palate is rich, with a secure foundation of black fruit – offers a savoury, effortless richness. This runs along steadily, as it holds a lot of matter, but there are no halts along the line. The aftertaste is more decisive, with tannin, oak and mineral elements all mingling. The length is very extensive. From 2011 maybe. 13°. 2029-32 Jan 2008 Previously Dec 2006 (cask) ***** black cherry, griottes aromas with oak apparent – rich indications for the future. Tight, cool grain wine on the palate with a refined richness. A thread of mineral freshness runs through it, and it holds a classic shape. Has a reserved feel now, no show business. Will keep rolling, and expect a silken wine around 2015 onwards. From 2011. 2027-30 due for bottling March 2007. Dec 2006” It could go for 25 years,” Jacques Grange.

2004

dark magenta, very clear robe with a light top. Very aromatic bouquet of great refinement – has a pointed ending, where the acidity of the vintage appears. Has a little northern sector pepper, and ends more narrowly than it starts. Gracious, Burgundian style wine, with an initial caressing texture, very clear-toned wine. Well-knit, with its tannins providing extra life late on. The berry fruit is smooth, and its length rolls on well. Late mineral edging. Understated but well-balanced. More oak with air but it all works harmoniously. Very beau, great style. Very floral after two hours. From late 2008. 2022-24 Sept 2007

2003

(cask) full, compact bouquet, has a north zone mineral glint. Well-knit, structured black fruit, good lines, agreeable breadth. Good fruit, tarry oaked end, is rich. Tannins are ripe. 2008 on. 2023-25

2002 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2001

good density on bouquet, gently smoked black fruit, suave; tight-knit fruit, confit with raspberry aftertaste. Juicy, has grilled notes, stewed side on end. From 2008. 2023-25

2000 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

1999

well-defined, pure nose, smoky black aromas, very typical, vinum picatum. Smoothly-textured, wonderful, oily wine. Berried fruits lead to white truffle finish. Delicious, great promise. From 2006-07. 2024-26

1998

wide aroma, some damp tones, mineral, olives, varied. Good warmth, then tannins pounce. Restrained, just starting to evolve. Decant to work round the tannins. From 2005. 2019-21

1997

tender tea leaf/coffee nose, red fruits/roses; Good harmony; pleasing, sappy, pretty red berry fruit. Nice character, good end definition, fungal bits. Esp 2004-05 on. 2020-22