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The Wines

90-100% Marsanne, 0-10% Roussanne, from part limestone-clay soils on Queyron, Les Champs towards Toulaud, with loose granite soils on Putier, Hongrie, purchased harvest, cool decantation, fermented, raised on fine lees 80-100 % vat, 0-20% (the press wine) young 600-litre oak casks 8-9 months, malo blocked, has risen from 2,000 b to 3,600 b

2018

yellow robe; there’s a note of reduction in a scaled bouquet, compote of white fruits, peach and apricot prominent, a buttery angle. It takes a warm, sunny route on the palate, offers fleshy content, with agreeable squeeze in the texture. There’s snap on the finale, spearmint, with coolness there. 13.5°. 2025-26 Dec 2019

2016 ()

shiny yellow. Has a discreet but measured nose, a low-key aroma of white fruits compote, stewed fruits, greengage plum. It has style, but is rather fleeting, hard to “grasp”. The palate is soft, mild, with a skimming nut-hazelnut flavour, some citrus also. It’s very New Wave, ephemeral. I note the 12.5°, and feel it was harvested too early, depriving it of gras and foundation. There’s a disappointing lack of body, a wine that slips through one’s fingers. It’s mild, soft, but . . . 12.5°. 2020-21 Dec 2017

2015 ()

yellow colour. The nose is nicely reserved, has finesse, a ginger-apricot twinning, hazelnut and greengage plum also; it has inner depth. The palate strikes a cool debut, with a stream of easy white fruits. It is a bit subdued, and there is a hint of gas. It drinks easily now, but is closed from giving its full flavour. It is clear wine, comes with charm, and I notice that it thickens after being decanted, so that is a good move. 13°. 100% Mars. Bottled May 2016 2022-23 Oct 2016

2013 ()

yellow, wee green tints in the colour. The nose is reserved, one that mixes white strawberry with apricot, white peach, light wisps of vanilla, verbena. This has a nicely stylish attack - it rolls out a white fruits flavour with good, salty tang and grip showing from the Marsanne as it finishes. It closes quietly, correctly. 13.5°. 90% Marsanne, 10% Roussanne, 70% vat, 30% cask. To 2018  Jan 2015

2012

shiny, pale yellow, an attractive flint tone to the robe. The nose is open and wide – has an air of stewed white fruits, a tang of apricot, hazelnut. It shows the stiffness of young Marsanne. The palate debut is live, with carbonic gas present. A run of lime and greengage plum fruit is followed by the clear grip of Saint-Péray at the end, with acidity and freshness. It makes for a bracing aperitif, but has enough body and the cut for steamed fish, cold meats. The aftertaste summons aniseed, fennel. It is a bit spartan now, but can yield and soften. From mid-2014. 13.5°. 90% Marsanne, 10% Roussanne, vat only raising. 2020-21  Nov 2013

2011

even yellow robe; has a buttery, freesia flowers scented bouquet, a discreet hazelnut present, along with camomile tea: the bouquet is sound, up to the mark. The flavour is nutty, all compact – it is a grounded wine. What seems like oak gives it increased body. A note of acetate appears towards the finish, a waxiness with a Marsanne clamp of bitter as it finishes. A bit dour. It may improve and become more generous. Decant this, and wait until late 2013. 13°. 100% Marsanne. 2020-21  Nov 2013

2009

even yellow robe; lime-greengage first aroma - pretty typical with its underlay of mineral, also a touch of SO2 here. The palate is buttoned up, but broad, well-filled at heart. It finishes a little jumpily – is not that settled, a bit tough. From mid-2011. 2015-16 July 2010