Login | Subscribe
twitter

The Wines

50-55% 1960s Marsanne from Beaumes (mainly East facing, slow ripening), 45-50% 1960s Roussanne from Beaumes and a little Méal, cool decantation, fermented, raised on fine lees in 40% new, 60% 1-year oak casks which are 50% 600-litre and 50% 228-litre 10 months, malo blocked (2018), usually completed, 1,800 b

2018

yellow with a little brilliance. Dried fruits, low register bouquet today, cooked pear, carries reduction, has a white peach, with apricot inner aroma. The palate runs with refined content, mild richness, is well composed, comes with pockets of freshness, iron towards the finish. It’s worth studying, since there are little triggers within it that add to its quality. It may show more exotic fruits for a while in time, and will emerge with more display as well. 14°. From 2022, decant it. 2038-40 Nov 2019

2017

(cask) firm yellow colour, a ripe aspect to the robe. The bouquet is broad, elegantly deep, assured, buttery, carries hints of delicate spring flowers, touches of salt flakes. This will gradually emerge, and be a classy start. The palate is rich and silken, has tremendous savoury qualities, the real pedigree of Hermitage at the helm. The gras is smooth, even winsome, catch me if you can - such is its refinement. It’s a paean to the quality of old vines’ juice. It’s very well orchestrated, and deserves fine dining, and careful menu planning – turbot, filet mignon of pork, anything that isn’t usually on your dining table. The oaking on this is more refined than in the past, and the quality has risen as a result. This is balanced, detailed, pedigree wine that purrs along. From spring 2021. 2038-40 Feb 2019

2016

shiny, quite full yellow. There is good bounty on the nose, a fat and ripe peach aroma, notes of apricot, cooked banana. Flowers and crushed grapes also float around. It has an assured depth. The palate bears an elegant richness, with dried fruits, nectarine, grapey flavours. The palate and nose link well, and its merit is the finesse of Beaumes and the Roussanne together, as it’s very typical of there. The finish develops an increase in depth, still on the elegance. The juice is fine. There’s a touch of carbonic gas. It’s a good ensemble, all very consecutive in its flow. It has delicate length. 2035-37 Feb 2018

2015

yellow robe, legs visible. There is a good knuckle of aroma in a tight bouquet that leads on nuttiness, white peach, cooked lemon; it has authority which comes from within. It has potential. Carbonic gas shows on the attack, a flavour of peach notably, plus ginger with nougat, a pear engagement; the fruits are cool rather than exotic. There is sinew, fibre in this, along with precise freshness. This will impress stealthily, will come along well and gradually over time. Bottled Sept 2016. 50% Mars, 50% Rouss. From 2019. 2034-37 Oct 2016

2014

bottled one month ago: shiny yellow robe, a little green, legs visible. Apricot and beeswax combine on the nose, cooked pear also. There is an air of large Bramley apple, much toasting from the oak – it is a real crossroads of aromas. This has subtle gras richness and acidity, freshness, the flavour peach. It grips well and has classic Marsanne knuckle, great precision. It ends like a red wine – density, completeness, notes of tannin even. This is persistent, very good. There is a passage of tender Roussanne richness before the Marsanne close and more grip and firmness there. 14°. 2033-36  Oct 2015

2013 ()

steady, quite deep yellow. An oaked air shows in front of a fat, full bouquet – there are airs of flan, melted butter, along with a light note of aniseed, lime and white tobacco to cut through those influences. The palate has a fresh debut, with enjoyable width to the white fruits, led by apricot, in coulis, smooth form. It has a satisfyingly lip-smacking finish, is both fresh and well-filled. There is a possible Roussanne presence here (tasted blind, is 50%) that gives clean lift to the second half of the palate. The length is good. Drink from spring 2016 to coax out more on the later palate. 14°. 2034-37 GB £210/6 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com  Jan 2015

2011 ()

bright, rather full yellow. Vanilla, infusion of tea aroma, resembles tilleul (linden), also hazelnut, and comes in a fat-fronted context, runs across the glass. The palate starts with an elegant, careful presentation before building into a run of gentle acidity. Has a flavour of rum cake, vanilla, orange sponge cake. It's a built-up Hermitage blanc – this isn’t a subtle player in its entirety. It has heat glow on the finish, which is firm, with licorice and notably fennel present. From 2015-16. 2028-30  Nov 2012

2009

(casks) level yellow colour; brioche, baked fruits, welcoming richness in a stylish bouquet. The palate presents a well-modelled sequence finely shaped fruit and good balance, and runs truly to the line. There is good potential for harmony – this wine is nicely presented, without excess. Good width – this is broad and prolonged. From 2013. 2024-27 July 2010

2004

mid yellow colour. White fruit, honeysuckle aroma, with fennel and licorice tang. Rich wine, very gourmand. Typical Marsanne nutty/nougat touches late on. Texture soft and round. Oak very noticeable on aftertaste, more absorbed by 2009-10. Good ripe crop with some acidity to direct it, works well. Always one of my favourites here. 2023-25 April 2006

2003

(cask) has a high tone aroma, but the bouquet overall is refined, harmonious. White fruits ease along palate well. Almost tannic chewiness on finish, interesting. Good and full, with structure. Clear fruit here, and oak not overdone. From 2007-08. 2025-28

2002

light gold robe, not look fresh. High tone, custard aroma. Down the line, plain flavour, persists OK. Quite solid, best in second phase. Lacks flair, more on show 2007. Has never grabbed the attention, not enough here. 2016-18 Nov 2004

2001 ()

exotic fruit, cooked apple tart/dried fruits/butterscotch aroma - sustained, some style. Possesses good oiliness, juice: has ripe, refined white fruit. Some acidity, too, but oak well on top. Orange marmalade also. The Marsanne's flan/custard flavour is subdued, and the strong oak needs leaving till 2007 to meld. 2024-26

2000

mild straw robe. Elegant, streamlined aroma - some oak, melted butter/spice. Gentle combo of juice and oak on palate. Refined, some width. Banana/vanilla aftertaste. Not assertive like a white from L'Hermite. Good with Shropshire blue cheese to draw the oak out, makes it more mineral. 2023-25

1999 ()

sleek bouquet, oak notes; decent core, oak surrounds. Quite stylish, can settle. Fair finesse. 2007 on. 2024-26