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The Wines

50% Marsanne, 50% Roussanne from 1998, 1990, from gore, decomposed granite soils on Les Oliviers at Tournon, cool decantation, fermented at 18-20°C, raised 0-33% new, 67-100% 1-year 228-litre oak casks 8-9 months, then steel vat 3 months, malo usually completed, wide, heavy bottle, 800-900 b

2018

yellow robe; elder flower, cassis bud airs, cooked lemon, with an outcrop of pineapple from the Roussanne. There is a little floral grace along the palate, with stylish gras, a neat presentation all round, soft white fruits, white plums. It finishes with kind juice, leaves an elegant trail. It’s an en finesse wine, a touch of cendré, cigarette ash, on the close. 13.5°. 2026-27 Dec 2019

2017

sturdy yellow robe; the bouquet carries ripeness, fat, shows oaking, grilling, and a grapey, cooked lime, stewed peach aroma, has definite depth, a salty touch. It’s going to open and accumulate variety well. The palate is marked by a trail of carbonic gas from the off, is fleshy, well rounded, rolls rather than rushes along, is very nutritious. Its gras is well established as its centrepiece, is fleshy and wholesome, as per Les Oliviers, which is a suntrap. The aftertaste is lip smacking. A wine to serve in a large glass when it’s around six to eight years’ old – very satisfying it will be with sauced dishes, a delight with wild mushroomsFrom spring 2020. 2032-34 Feb 2019

2016 ()

yellow robe, quite thick. An elderberry, soft peach aroma features in an understated bouquet, one with precise definition; it’s worth studying for its detail, nuance, is a little floral. This is presented in the fashionable restrained style, with a trim nugget of white fruit, tangy gras at its centre. The aftertaste is rounded, on delicate aniseed tones. There’s hazelnut Marsanne typicity here, but a sense of drift as it ends, with some cooked lemon. I would have favoured riper harvesting, and richer depth. Decanting advised. 2027-29 Feb 2018

2015 ()

yellow robe. Has a good, bursting nose that gives grilling, bounty, pear fruits, apricot – it is varied and nuanced. The palate strikes out well, is muscular, with tight gras richness. The flavour rests on peach, crab apple, with lime in the mix. Interesting, provocative wine with a tender side from the Roussanne. This is good; it holds handsome matter and balance to help it live. There is tobacco on the aftertaste. 13.8°. Bottled end Sept 2016. 2027-29 Oct 2016 GB Fine & Rare Wines £148 6 b i/b www.frw.co.uk customerservice@frw.co.uk +44(0)207 089 7400

2014 ()

bottled one month ago: yellow robe, legs visible. This has a proper deep nose, is still on its oak, shows vanilla, nougat and much toast. The content is sleek, the gras plump, the matter compact. The flavour centres on peach and cooked pear, white raisin. The close is good, full, complete, gives some toffee from the oak. It has plenty of weight for the future. Bright wine that can dance well, it has grip, too. Marsanne shows on the nose here – the air of nougat. It has much elegance, allows pure access: it is more a terroir wine than the 2013. “It has a granite tension, more than the 2013,” Damien Brisset. 14°. 2026-28 GB £98/6 b in bond Wine Society www.thewinesociety.com Oct 2015

2013 ()

steady yellow robe. The bouquet is handsome, has real good authority, airs of peach, acacia flowers, cooked lemon. It is harmonious and nicely sustained. A flan flavour shows on a textured start, then comes Marsanne grip, hazelnut, and a strike of ginger-apricot. This has good style, displays a very genuine Marsanne influence, the gras joli, a violet-floral harmony adding to its appeal. It has a butty, lip-smacking finale, and a honey-nougat aftertaste. It is complex in its way. 2026-28  Oct 2015 Previously Jan 2015 **** pretty full yellow; has a sizeable bouquet, one with a puffed out chest, shows butter, fat, cooked white fruits and some cut from a mix of aniseed and mandarin. The palate glows from within, is rich and thorough, really demands decanting, serving in a large glass and pairing with classic French cuisine. It finishes with a correct freshness. A good, full St Jo blanc. I like its shapely persistence. 14°. 2023-25  Jan 2015

2011

(casks) mid-depth yellow. Smoke, beeswax, oak tang on the nose, with lemon tart and vanilla essence. This is a deep bouquet, only just starting out. The palate has a sturdy debut, is more complete than many 2011s; it is scaled for food over the aperitif. It runs to the finish on its relatively strong ripeness, has gras to sustain it. There are white raisin, vanilla pod notes on the aftertaste. The length is good. Has good body, a red wine style. Drink with lobster in sauce, veal. From spring 2013. 2020-21  Nov 2012

2006

marked yellow robe; the bouquet is broad, with lime and a slight salty tang, and honey coming through as it breathes. The palate is well-measured, and the richness is handily weighted – there are flavours of oak, plus roasted nuts and a little raisin. Fruit emerges towards the finish – such as dried apricot, white peach. The length is good, and the wine has authority on the finish, no fading there. The oak demands the wine be left for 18 months, but is largely integrated thanks to the wine's intrinsic richness. 14.5°. 2016-17 Jan 2008

2003 ()

ripe, buttery, typical Marsanne bouquet. Good juice, with a wholesome flavour, very correct Marsanne display. Tinge of end bitterness. Nice poise and style, has character, balance. Bit taut from its oak. 2012-13

2002

bouquet of melted butter, iodine/flint touch, pineapple chunks, oak. Banana/oak attack. Fairly rich texture, then oak tightens it, and asserts on finish with air. Some spice, exotic fruit. Is given lift by its Roussanne. From 2007-08 to let the oak settle, and to gain content on finish. 2011 April 2004

2001 ()

broad, exotic aroma; Roussanne gives attack zest, Marsanne provides nice oil, end fat. Oaked end. Sound character, structure. 2006 on. 2013-15