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The Wines

Viognier (1970s-1980s for the purchased wine) from Chavanay, also Saint-Pierre-de-Boeuf, Limony & Condrieu, 5 sources, 67-80% purchased wine, 20-33% purchased crop (early 2000s Viognier), whole bunch crop pressed, steel vat fermented, then raised 50% steel vat, 50% 2-3 year 228-litre oak casks 8-9 months, malo completed, filtered, has risen from 3-4,500 b to 5,300 b

2018

attractive yellow robe; the bouquet is graceful, has a peach, floral, cooked citrus nature. The palate bears pear-fruited, restrained content, purity in the fruit, detail in its transmission. It has an appealing light touch, sustains all through, concludes with a deft note of pear, a bonny succulence in it. It’s balanced, well made Condrieu, with no sense of vintage excess. 14°. 2024-25 Nov 2019

2017

full, appealing yellow robe; the bouquet has a spearmint presence, very fresh for the vintage, gives a streamlined air of peach, peach stone with a honeyed grapiness attached, oak toasting. The palate sets off with mild citrus flavouring, is a light, New Wave style of Condrieu with a note of carbonic gas through it, the finish innocuous. In a good vintage such as 2016 [balanced], this would not be up to the mark if it were this light and wispy. The flavour centres on pear. It’s got just enough body to maintain interest, will go with hors d’oeuvres, steamed foods, Japanese noodles rather than really structured, sauced dishes. 13°. 2022 Dec 2018

2016 ()

pale yellow. Orange, Bergamot, cooked lime airs feature in a nose that is slightly New Wave, but is clear and has style, shows gooseberry and melon also. The palate is an easy affair, a bit arm’s length, with an apricot-peach flavour, a quite finish – it tucks in there. There’s a hint of carbonic gas. It’s a trim Condrieu: 13° says it all. Bottled May 2017. 5,350 b To 2022 Mar 2018

2015

fine yellow colour. The nose swirls well around pear, white peach, ginger airs that have an undertone of cooked lemon. The palate delivers bonny richness, a genuine heart of cooked white fruits with a lazy spicing attached. There is a fine-ness in its acidity. It’s drinking well now, close to its top. 13°. 3,000 b. €30 (2014) export. 20% oak, 80% vat. To 2019 Oct 2016

2014 ()

yellow robe. The bouquet is broad, not detailed, has a ginger, cooked white fruits aroma, citrus-lime present. The palate gives a mandarin, honeyed flavour, is pretty fat, the gras supple. It tightens on the finish, a steady grip there. This has some style, and a suave appeal. To 2018  Oct 2015 

2013

fine yellow robe, legs visible. The bouquet presents a broad landscape – it has an apricot-peach aroma, soft pear fruit, a touch of aniseed. The palate is sympa, agreeable, holds a flavour of white peach, stone fruits, with a cusp of tannin and strength on the finish; from its oak the aftertaste is smoked. This is interesting – it has space, isn’t too charged, and has grip. Beau wine, with mineral in it. 13°. €30. To 2019  Oct 2015