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The Wines

40% Grenache blanc, 30% Clairette, 15% Roussanne, 15% Viognier (early 1990s) on on galet stone clay-limestone & sand, gravely soils, hand harvested, cool decantation post pressing, vat fermented 3 weeks at 18-20°C, 60% steel vat, 40% oak cask raised 6-7 months, malo blocked, filtered, “drink as aperitif, or with seafood, cooked fish, bouillabaisse fish stew, fine cheese”, 1,700-4,000 b

2018 ()

(vat/casks) pale yellow. Citrus, sherbet airs lead the nose, ginger snap, a hint of petrol and peach stone. The palate holds some stylish, easy content, some rather dainty juice, with a soft delivery, the finish mild, rounded. It’s a shapely Lirac blanc, good with starter dishes, has refinement. 13°. To 2023 May 2019

2017 ()

flinty, pale yellow robe. The nose is reserved, shows mild pear, is nutty, with an aniseed tang, hints of wild flowers. It’s a clear, if subdued, start. The palate is a tight do, has a close-knit assembly of white fruits, slightly underripe peach. There’s a nutty theme along the palate, with white plum flavours on the finish, a little knuckle of grip there. The shape is upright, the crop harvested only just ripe in search of freshness, It will be better à table than solo, is consistent along the palate – doesn’t dip. It can be decanted. 13.5°. Only 1,700 b. 40% Gren bl, 30% Clair, 15% Vio, 15% Rouss. €4.60 export. 2023-24 Sept 2018

2016

fine yellow robe. Pear and apricot fruit feature in a charming bouquet, a soft ripeness in it, a good bundle of variety, greengage plum, light saltiness. The palate is fresh, immediate, centres on stewed white fruits compote, plums, and takes on spice late on. It’s jolly and round, the finish elegant. This is really enjoyable. Good to drink solo, or with hors d’oeuvres, pork. It’s very good with cod in parsley, a real marriage. I give it **** due to the pleasure of drinking it. 14°. To 2019 Sept 2017

2012 No Rating

opaque, cream-tinted pale colour. Has a grainy, smoky air – an upright nose that is “bony”, bonbon present, shaving foam. The palate also is firm, the fruit stretched, ends drily. The fruit fails to last. No Go. 13°. May 2013

2010

very light gold, apricot colour. Healthy peach jam, compote, mixed aroma – emphasizes fruit above all. Tight, rather metallic debut to the palate – it rushes along the palate, has gras present at the end. I reckon this can move up a notch or two. The length is OK. The stern nature of the attack is the concern. Needs food. It will be less stiff from spring 2012. 13.5°. To 2017. July 2011

2009 No Rating

firm, pale yellow. Good, clear aroma that combines lime and light butter with a peanut-nut implication behind. The palate is a touch dusty, sulphurous, which flattens it out. Lacks genuine fat, ends firmly, without charm. Bottle 2: here I find SO2 on the nose, makes it dusty. Same dust on the palate, has a little gras but is not well assembled. 13.5°. July 2011

2006

pale robe; the bouquet is reductive, sulphurous – could be sorted by decanting. It clears a little with air – shows white stone fruit. Low-key content on the palate – it has some gras, achieves a quiet persistence. The content is good, the nose needs to be sorted. To 2011. June 2007

2005

still fresh, spiced white fruits nose of decent depth. Licorice and tangy white fruits on a palate that is still well-knit. The length is correct in this wine of sinew and some alcohol, which means it should be drunk before 2009. June 2007

2004

very smoked, bright, interesting nose. – citrus, white fruits jam, nuts. Brisk palate, the white fruit tightly sealed, and its grip firm. The length is sound. Has a crisp, latent richness. 2009-10 June 2007