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The Wines

15 varieties picked in 2 groups, 1 week apart, co-fermented in 1 vat – 9 red, av age 50 years, ie Grenache (oldest 1930s), Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan, Mourvèdre, Counoise, Alicante, Tempranillo, red Muscat and 5 white, ie Viognier (1985), Marsanne (1983), Clairette (1980s), Bourboulenc (1980s), Picpoul (1980s), Aubin, from pebbly, sandy, silt, limestone-clay soils, 70-80% destemmed, 5 day pre-fermentation maceration, 14-18 day vinification, wild yeasts, pumping overs, juice fed by gravity into ageing in 1-10 year 228-litre oak casks 11-12 months, then concrete vat 12 months, unfined, unfiltered or lightly filtered, bottle raised 3 years, “I want complexity and elegance with this, and flowery aromas, drink with truffled sweetbreads, pheasant terrine with dried fruits, Saltimbocca rosast veal”, first wine 2007, Vin de France in 2012, Vin de Pays du Gard before, Lirac since 2015, 6,000 b

2016

(vat) handsome dark red robe. Smoky bacon, black berry fruit aroma, ripe mulberry, a good mix of fruits; the nose has potential, and variety to come, sweet red berries also present. The palate is elegant, upright, flows with cool reserve, the presence of mild varieties, non-Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre ones that aid its intricacy and subtlety. The aftertaste is floral, perfumed. There is thickness of 2016 in its juice. This is a gradual developer, nothing obvious here. The refined finish brings in tea leaves, tang, iron. There’s expressive Grenache from hands-off winemaking. 14.5°. 6,000 b. €15. From 2020. 2032-34 Aug 2018

2014 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2013 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2011 ()

deep plum red robe. This has a well rounded, but reserved nose, has a juvenile blackberry fruit aroma, with menthol. This is close-knit, possesses a suave, smooth texture with a pocket of freshness towards the finish, more blueberry fruit there. It grips on the finish with some toasting, a near flirtation with power as it ends. The finish is robust, gives a bit of gasp. There is a late solar effect. The tannins are fine, the structure sound. Decant this. 14.5°. 2027-29 Feb 2016

2009 ()

full robe. Cocoa, black fruit, very persistent bouquet with crunchy black fruit airs – it is very wide, big, also licorice features. Full, intense palate – inky black fruits with ticking beat to it, the berries really show up well. Has a copious end, very good length where there is some heat. From late 2012. 2026-28 Bottled Sept 2010. March 2011

2008

bright, pretty red. Sealed up, lateral aroma – shows raspberry with some floral notes such as peony, rose. Good, crisp fruit on the palate – this flows very well, is very good, offers a shade of mineral late on. Beau vin, tasty! The length is impressive, with raspberry, violet leading to sandalwood on its clean finish. Has striking airborne purity. “It is very well balanced,” R de Pins. 13.5°. €30 at the cellar, note. Lightly filtered. 2023-25 June 2010

2007 ()

red robe with a dark centre. Slightly brewed up, big nose – shows red fruits, a little floral air, brioche, sponge cake – it is just shutting down. Close-knit red fruits here – it moves along from mid-palate where it is juicy, and fines out towards the finish. There is a touch of dusty tannin late on. A wine with structure, whose finish needs to refine. From spring 2012. Unfiltered. 2024-26 “It was very floral on the nose,” R De Pins. June 2010