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The Wines

0-40% Clairette, 0-40% Ugni blanc, 20-50% Grenache blanc, 10-40% Roussanne (early 1980s), 0-25% Bourboulenc, with up to 25% Viognier from 2013, from sand-topped, galet clay subsoils on Coteau de Clary, night harvesting, mainly vat, part 3-year oak cask fermented at 16-20°C, wild yeasts, raised 7 months, lees stirred, malo usually blocked, 60-85 mg total SO2 per litre applied at bottling, “drink as aperitif, with cooked fish, cheese such as Comté, goat”, 4-5,000 b

2018

yellow colour, hint of vanilla. The nose has an elderberry aroma, greengage plum, a note of vintage sweetness. It’s not yet fully extended. The palate bears spiced content, is limited in expression, a bit loose, has a candy leaning, crushed peach, in the flavour. There are lightly salted touches on the finish. This is somewhat hit by its bottling, can develop more than it shows today, even if that won’t be stellar progress. 13°. 2023 May 2019

2017

nice shine in an elegant yellow robe. There’s a bright citrus outer air to a confirmed density of white fruits compote at the centre of the bouquet, nectarine, tangerine, stem ginger involved, a light note of melted butter. The palate starts freshly, with spearmint notions, good weight and grip along the palate. This is well channelled, good and fluid, has energy in its delivery, accumulate well on the finish, is agreeably sustained there. A very fresh aftertaste invites a second glass. This is table wine to drink with Mediterranean fish, sole. It’s still a little under wraps, not released. It has a firm, successful finish, is an honest wine that represents a good blend of the Southern Rhône – the Grenache blanc base – and the Northern Rhône’s trim contributors, Roussanne, with Viognier. 13°. 50% Gren bl, 25% Rouss, 25% Vio. 2024-26 Oct 2018

2016

yellow/pear colour. There’s good “steel”-iron in the nose, a pinpoint of white fruit with floral, white flower tenderness, jasmin, white plum and white strawberry, some orange zest. The palate bears a nutty, greengage plum flavour with intricacy in its make-up, nudges of freshness, lithe content. It ends on cooked citrus tang. This is good, naked style white Lirac with the iron and clarity in it appealing and commendable. It holds together well, is understated. The length is top, very precise. It’s a bit of an intellectual southern white. With just a sense that the pressing could have been softer – hence the tang, wee tannin on the close. 13°. 50% Gren bl, 25% Rouss, 25% Vio this year. 60 mg/litre SO2. 2022-23 Aug 2018

2012 ()

yellow robe. Has a nice, loose aroma with smoke, white pepper, tobacco, hazelnut airs, has good steel in it. The palate grips tightly, is well up for foods. Has an almond flavour. A bit like a Vin de Savoie, one from altitude. “This will go well with shellfish, trout in almonds, chicken, for instance,” Fabien Leperchois. Very good with a velouté, fine soup of foie gras au verbena (verveine) at Entre Vigne et Garrigue restaurant near Tavel – it rounds the finish, and the two meet at half way, well. 13°. 50% Gren bl, 40% Rouss, 10% Clair this year. €9.80, VALUE. 2019-20  May 2013

2010

pale yellow, green tints. Smoky, apple aroma, similar to a compote of apple. The palate is unusual: the flavour resembles green, Bramley apples cooked with cloves, and apple skins. It is not putting off, but certainly needs food, such as sweet dishes, cakes, tarts. 13°. To 2016  July 2011

2009 ()

yellow tinted robe; banana fruit, oily and waxy aroma with hazelnut, almond paste, spice and fennel. The palate is sound, rather complete, with its matter well directed towards a fresh style. The length is decent; a wine that is all clean and easy to get on with, is good. Food best to go with its content of some substance.  More nuance in it from mid-2012. 13.5°. 2017.  July 2011

2005

yellow markings in the robe; custard, nut aroma that shows a lactic, cardboard side. The palate is flat-toned, its white fruit lacking crispness. A low acidity wine, perhaps by design, one suited to drinking with desserts. June 2007