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The Wines

60% Roussanne (early 2000s), 30% Grenache blanc (1950s), 5% Clairette, 5% Ugni blanc from stony limestone soils, vat fermented, oak cask raised 5 months, “drink with fish, cuttlefish à la plancha with aioli, white meats, breaded veal escalope, roast rabbit, poultry, goat cheese”, 4,900 b

2018 ()

pale yellow; the nose is reserved, shows roasted nuts, citrus touches, raw tobacco, greengage plum fruit. The palate bears a white plum and peach flavour, has southern fuel, a gourmandise in its richness. It finishes with a squeezy, almost chewy flourish, goes right to the line, is very much a table wine, up for dense fish, white meats. The aftertaste extends well, gives local glow. Decanting no harm. 14°. 2025-26 May 2019

2017

firm yellow robe. Wild flowers, a hint of fennel and orange zest, and a soft nectarine aroma compose a nose of some intrigue, one with fine detail, worth studying. The palate bears good style in its gras, is nicely filled, runs with a steady hand through to a finish on infused tea, several strands to it. It’s only just getting going, has the body to age and vary, is very much table wine, delivered with careful restraint, fine-ness. It has a quiet, gentle close, agreeable it is. 14°. From spring 2019. 2025-26 Sept 2018

2016 ()

primrose-tinted robe, a pear skin hue, is a one-off. The nose is reserved, shows pear drop sweets, beeswax, almost brioche baked bread; there are hints of butter and musky flowers, Comté cheese, pork, grilling. The palate has a note of perlant, a low-key murmur of spritz, the flavour notably nutty with peach, peach stone. It flirts with oxidation in style, but isn’t dried out, has a firm core and ends resolutely, no dip. It’s chunky wine, grounded, for Vieille France, Escoffier sauced cuisine. 13.5°. To 2023 or so. Oct 2018