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The Wines

85-90% Grenache (1921 from blue clay slopes at Le Village de Rasteau), 5-10% Carignan, 0-5% Mourvèdre, fermented at 18-22°C, 5% or so neutral alcohol added at 1035, 90-100 gm of residual sugar, aged 50% 600-litre oak casks, 50% concrete vat 18 months in 2004, 30 months in 2006, no rackings, only top ups, unfiltered, “I want to make a Grand Vin, not in the oxidative style, which is why I make a red VDN,” only made in 2004 & 2006, 21.5° post mutage (post neutral alcohol), 1,500-3,000 b (75 cl)

2006

wholesome, complete dark robe that is full to the top. There is great finesse on the nose, a light touch floral impression, with a discreet pepper inlay. The palate is marked by a fabulous texture, and an appetising gras richness and roundness, which just gradually leads into a more smoky, intense finish which bears chocolate-raisin, but also floral, aromatic notes. This is so cleanly made, thus it is en finesse, and shows what grand quality good Vin Doux Naturel can have, Very drinkable, very accurate, great wine. STGT wine – from the garrigue (floral, light herbs) wine of excellent balance. As it airs beyond four hours, there is a wavy, herbal, tisane infusion width across the palate. The finish is fine, precise, collected. Made from 8 hl/ha. So good is the balance that I would drink this with a main dish, not just towards the end of the meal. “It would be good with duck; it can live until the early 2030s. The 2004, although a cousin vintage, is more dry than this. Nature gave the wine its natural balance and complexity due to a low mutage,” J Bressy. Previously Nov 2006 **** (tank, 100 gm of residual sugar, 16.5°) full purple, black traces; expressive, soaked raspberry aroma, still primary at such a young stage, airs of post-fermentation lees hang around the nose has plenty of weight, content. The palate is less compact than the 2004, has an overt, elegant aspect. Is very pure, straight down the line, has more acidity than the 2004. Shaping up towards a stylish future. “It will be deeper than the 2004 in time,” J Bressy. Nov 2006

2004 ()

floating, elegant nose – crushed raspberries, leather in a fine context. The palate has a supple texture, richness, and gains as it goes. This is TASTY. Has a plum, black berry underlay of taste. Harmony a-plenty here, is beau vin. Finishes cleanly. Very good, is greatly refined, and a few end tannins pepper it up. 2027-29. 90% Grenache, 10% Carignan this year, low mutage (low addition of alcohol spirit), 90 gm of residual sugar, raised 18 months. €30 to clients at the cellar. 1,800 b of 50 cl. Nov 2006