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The Wines

Clairette (mid-1990s), Grenache blanc (1930s), Picardan, then Marsanne (1995-2000), Roussanne (1995-2000), Grenache gris, Bourboulenc (1980s), Picpoul (1980s), Viognier from limestone, marl soils, 33% large 16 hl barrel, 0-33% steel vat, 33-67% 7-8 year 600-litre oak cask fermented, wild yeasts, raised 18 months, malo completed, “you must it aside for 2 to 3 years, and it’s ideal at 7 years with truffle dishes; it can live for 15 years”, organic, biodynamic wine, 6,000 b

2017

the robe is rather a full yellow; ginger snap, cooked citrus, orange marmalade airs come in a good sweep across the nose, with a melted butter aspect of ripeness. The palate debut is bendy, on peach stone, nuts, has refined acidity, with musky, white raisin notes, good layering. It offers charm via its squeezy gras, is more supple than the 2015 and 2016. “This is the most concentrated white I have made – it fermented more than 18 months until the second Christmas after the harvest. The yeasts worked very slowly in 2017. It’s a moelleux vintage,” Jérôme Bressy. Bottled two months ago. This weighs in at 16.5°! Therefore, careful selection à table will be necessary – firm fish in butter-based sauce, say, veal likewise. 2032-34 March 2019

2016 ()

firm yellow robe; the bouquet has a compact, tight aroma that features peach-apricot, honeysuckle flowers, roast nuts. The palate commences with immediate, good and firm grip, is closed. There are oxidative tendencies in its nutty flavour, but not in its composition – it’s red wine like, structured. There is a lot of inner muscle, a tangy firmness. A flavour of dried fruits, apricot and pear, come through on the close. I come back to this after tasting the 2015 and 2017: immediate depth, with tight levels of fried white fruits in it, a wholesome attack led by white peach. Roast nuts on the nose. The structure pleases me. “There is beeswax, acacia on the nose. It’s very concentrated; I’d love to sell this at 10 years’ old, given its form,” Jérôme Bressy. 16°. From 2022, hoping for cold winters before then. 2039-41 March 2019

2015

firm yellow colour; the nose is made up of varied details, has a bright aroma of brioche, cooked lemon, white peach, flowers. It’s well weighted, and good freshness in a stream comes out of it. The palate gives aniseed-quince flavour, peach stone; this is good, grippy wine with a solid foundation. It’s well lined, shows a bit of carbonic gas. It ends with a doff of the hat to spearmint. It’s well structured, and a good spine runs through it. This has a good Southern base with a Northern clench around it. It ends well, via trim and sustained gras. This won’t advance fast. I come back to it after tasting the 2016 and 2017: the nose has gone a bit dumb; the palate is direct, spinal, its form sealed, the juice tight, flavours of peach, white plum, nuts. “It was very closed at first; it is discreet when you open it, a bit like a Northern Rhône,” Jérôme Bressy. 15°. Bottled autumn 2017. 2033-35 March 2019 Previously May 2016 **** 1) (vat/casks, bottling March 2017, touch of sugar still to ferment, malo doing) ***(*) yellow robe. Toasted, orange marmalade airs in a lingering nose that has style. The palate gives apricot, white plum, has a real good front, then gathers tightness. There is a generous offer here, and it holds soft, plump gras richness. “It is long, has gras; the old vines of Picpoul and Bourboulenc helped in 2015, bringing freshness and acidity,” Jérôme Bressy. To 2024. 2) (steel vat, more Clairette & Bourboulenc than previous) **** yellow robe. An aniseed, fennel air is given by the Clairette blanche, with background toasting, lic orice. The palate is squeezy but reserved: it stands up well, is direct and also well assured. It moves well along the palate, is fine. “This gives the freshness for the wine,” Jérôme Bressy. 2024-25 May 2016

2014

bottled 1 month ago: shiny yellow robe. The nose is varied and complex, well nuanced. Airs of asparagus, smoke and vanilla, cooked lemon, hay come through, spring flowers also: there is plenty to consider. The palate glides along, bears white fruits such as white plum, Mirabelle, cooked lemon and a marked aspect of peach. It is dumb post bottling. It gives a fine and well-filled glass that will be an elegant southerner. Decant this. It is good and calm, orderly, balanced. From spring 2017. “It will be superb in 2017,” Jérôme Bressy. 2026-27  May 2016