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The Wines

70-80% Grenache (late 1960s-early 1970s), 5-20% Mourvèdre (late 1960s-early 1970s), 5-15% Syrah (early 1990s) from 3 hectares on shallow clay-limestone soils at La Fouille et Les Florets (E) at 280 metres, crop cooled pre-fermentation, destemmed, 15-24 day vinification, pumping overs, part vat emptying/refilling, (cap punching no longer done from mid-2010s), first winter in concrete vat, then aged 50-85% large 28 hl barrels, 20-30% 3-4-5 year old 225-litre oak casks, 20-30% young 600-litre oak casks 9 months, then vat raised another 6-9 months, total 15-18 months, filtered, name Jucunditas introduced mid-2010s, 9-12,000 b


quite a full red; the bouquet gives a sunny drumbeat, expresses prune, date fruit, the Mediterranean reaches. The palate holds a static clump of brewed dark fruits, a note of black olive, with gummy tannins. I want more zip. The finish is lip-smacking, has the vintage’s bounty, reveals a little stream of red fruit. It’s a little ponderous, best suited to stews, autumn drinking. Decant it. 14°. 12,000 b. 70% Gren, 15% Syr, 15% Mourv. €19.5 at cellars. From 2021. 2031-33 Feb 2020


(casks) shiny, full red colour; the nose holds a quiet intensity of black berry fruit, with a border of herbs, a shimmer of sun strength. The palate delivers good, immediate black fruit, runs as one, has another semblance of strength on the finish. The tannins are ripe, pretty solid. This is full, thorough, the fruit quality good. It finishes with dark thrust. 14°. 70% Gren, 15% Syr, 15% Mourv. From spring 2021, not before. 2039-41 Oct 2018

2016 ()

(barrel/casks/vat) full, dark robe. The bouquet has style, led by its discreet black berry fruit aroma, just a hint of prune ripeness attached. It has a local nature. The palate is lined with stewed black fruits, has quite a thick texture that veers towards succulence. The finish is fleshy, on some firm juice, which hangs around sweetly, with a note of perfume. It’s a tiny bit pumped up, but will please. 14°5. 80% Gren, 15% Syr, 5% Mourv. €19. From late 2019. 2031-32 Oct 2017


(barrel/casks/vat) bright, medium red robe. The nose shows the tender side of Gigondas, carrying raspberry fruit with a soft rose flower presence. It has a gentle, appealing curve. The palate is spiced and free flowing, bears clear-cut red fruits with a little squeeze of gras on the finish. For now, it’s a direct wine, rather in a cool, Burgundian vein. The finish is fresh, marked by menthol, pepper and a resurgence of gentle floral influences. Allow until mid-2019, and decant. 14.5°. 2029-31 Feb 2017

2014 ()

(barrel/cask, bottling Oct 2016) dark red. The nose is sweet, led by strawberry, Grenache-inspired fruit, with plum and a light floral note. It is dense, and will hold up over time. The palate bears supple red fruits, the texture suave, the tannins fitting in smoothly. The Grenache stokes and strokes this, offering a rounded shape and gummy tannins. 14°. 9,000 b. 75% Gren, 15% Syr, 10% Mourv. €17. From 2018. 2027-28  Dec 2015


(barrel/cask) bright purple hue – lighter at the top. Red and dark fruit aroma in a slightly effusive nose. The palate is soft, supple and fleshy, centred on red fruit flavours. Tannins  grip on the finish. Understated wine, but a correct one. 14.5°. From mid-2016. 2022-23 JL  Dec 2014

2011 ()

(barrel/cask) steady red. Blackberry fruit features in a poised bouquet, is balanced and agreeably deep, shows a few notes of date, a ripe fruiting. It will vary nicely. The palate also has an agreeable, undemanding feel: it holds clear black fruit, with slight scenting and smokiness. It is elegant, ready soon. The fine grain tannins are tasty on the finish, where there is a fine knot of herbs. A good restaurant trade wine for meat dishes. From late 2013. 14.5°. 80% Gren, 15% Syr, 5% M, 60% large barrel, 20% each 225 & 600-litre oak casks raising this year.  2021-22  Dec 2012

2010 ()

(vat) dark red. Black leather air with meaty depth and a pine needle surround, has grilled and grounded airs. The palate is ripely fruited, gets off to a suave start. The palate is juicy, tasty, with an intrinsically sweet heart – provides easy and comfortable drinking. Pine essence runs through it leading to a menthol exit, and a date-like final richness. It will give good autumn or winter drinking. From mid-late 2013. It just needs to polish its finish and its tannins. The length is good, the last taste that of pine. 2027-29 Dec 2011

2009 ()

(vat) quite a full red; the nose is evolving gradually – oily, sweet plum, red berry aromas that have plump appeal, an air of redcurrant jelly. The palate is more restrained than the nose, is in its infant stages. As yet, it lacks a true centre of focus, though it gather some richness late on. I like the scented red fruit from the Grenache, with a local mix of herbs and stimuli. Promising, authentic, STGT wine. It holds a good Grenache base. From spring 2013. 2025-27 July 2011


shiny, quite dark red. Herbal, primrose flowers, notably black cherry airs. Free moving palate that has a nice and suave texture, finishes on black pepper with a nutty content. Sound length. An agreeable, steady wine with mild juice in it. To 2017. Marks for elegance. €8.55 ex cellars. July 2011 Previously Dec 2009 *** (vat) quite full red; baked red fruit aroma that is broad – this is a chunky nose, has depth in it that reveals beef stock, red cherry liqueur. The palate has a grainy texture for now, also incipient power – it needs leaving until late 2011 to settle and fuse – its tannins are marked on the later stages. Has the structure to age and develop – it will be a mineral, sinewy wine when mature. Grenache leads it. 2019-21 Dec 2009 Previously Nov 2009 * (to be bottled May 2010) bright red. Pepper is backed by cherry fruit on the nose which is a bit linear just now, shows garrigue influences. The palate is also very straight, with pointed black fruit present, a little berry, in a mild setting. It is a bit scorched, towards vegetal, at the finish. See how this goes – from 2012. 14.5°. 2017-19 Nov 2009. For the first time this was 15% fermented and raised in new 600-litre oak casks, and 85% large barrel raised – no vat use for the raising.


(now in vat, to be bottled next month) full and bright robe. The bouquet hangs together well – from its oak it gives caramel, date, baked black fruits, but time may reveal notes such as raspberry. The palate is fleshy, supple, rich, with a flavour of black berry – it is well sustained. Its fruit is clear and well implanted – modern and stylish. Good length. Leave it until mid-2012 to allow the tannins to integrate. 2021-22 Nov 2009

2006 ()

steady red robe, a bit of lightness at the top. Wide, big muscle aroma but it is not overdone – there is smoke and charcoal in the air beside the black fruit, also a but of plum and kirsch. The palate is on an earthy, grounded status – this has a chunky constitution, and good late ease towards a pocket of black berry fruit, then licorice and pine. It is wide, but also clear from its high location – there is a limestone chak!! at the end. I like its tannin grain. From mid-late 2010. Decant this. “A tajine of lamb with this,” Nicolas Haeni. “A beef daube with this,” Alfred Haeni. 14.5°. 2018-20 Nov 2009


dark plum red. Has a fairly broad nose – carries enclosed dark fruits, with a little brewed moment at half way, then some cinnamon, cold tea. The palate has violet, scented, quite fleshy start, with herbs infused into it: this is a pretty rounded wine with correct tannic ripeness built into its lining. The length is good and attractive, exemplified by some late sweetness. From early 2009 for a touch more cohesion. The content has been well judged – how much to extract in the cellar – so the balance is sound. 2019-20 June 2008


mild red; live, open, red-fruited aroma – cherry fruit without great depth – it is upright today, a bit on the vintage shape. The palate offers simply presented red cherry fruit, has oak on the finish. It is a bit international – there is no real “moment”. It can live and vary, so stay with it. The finish is fresh enough. Try in 2008. 2015-16  Dec 2006  Previously July 2005 (*) (barrel) spiced, upright, unclear nose; some Grenache richness on the palate, but this is poorly defined. It retains some richness at the end. Simple, not sure this is a good example. July 2005

2003 ()

supple, chocolate style nose with nice Grenache content; the palate holds a quite rich damson plum, black fruit jam flavour with some herb trimmings. Good, suave elements here. It drinks well, but will be more varied from 2007. 2012-13 STGT wine. July 2005


red robe, a shiny plum. Brewed, willing bouquet that is reductive and animal, the fruit is plum with sun. The palate offers sweet appeal, comes with a pretty, floral roundness. It extends steadily, leading the wine into nice crisp notes. STGT (Soil to Glass Transfer) wine – very faithful to its place. It has an elegant structure, good acidity, is young and enjoyable – it isn’t that dense, but is beau. Not trying to impress the critics, bravo. 2017-18 Oct 2010 Previously July 2005 (*) gamey, plain bouquet with beef and alcohol evident. There is some sinew and white pepper in the palate, but it is banal, the fruit lacks good cut and the tannins are dry on the finish. Hearty enough, but the dry end is a worry. July 2005


earthy, truffly nose. Supple on the palate, not that deep. Drinks quietly, is a bit short. Basic level Gigondas. To 2008. July 2005