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The Wines

65-70% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10-15% Syrah from clay-sandy soils on Le Goujar et Plane (N-W) & La Daïsse (N), 80% destemmed, 4 week vinification, daily pumping overs only, aged 33% each new large barrel, 1 & 2 year large barrel, 0-33% 4-year 228-litre oak casks 15-18 months (until early 2010s aged 33-70% concrete vat, 30-40% 1-2-3 year 228-litre oak casks, 0-33% large new barrel 18 months), unfined, unfiltered, 11-13,000 b

2018 ()

(large barrels) dark red colour; the nose mixes raspberry with garrigue herbs, smoky notes, has some Gigondas breeze in it. The palate bears red fruited content with a sturdy middle to finish, meaning it will evolve soundly. The tannins have a note of chewiness, but will enter fine, no problem. It gives a correct image of Gigondas, with some rocky-mineral thread along its path, the aftertaste clear. 65% Gren, 20% Syr, 15% Mourv. €17.7 at cellars. From 2022. 2040-42 Feb 2020

2017 ()

(large barrel) dark red colour; the nose is overtly spicy, with a green pepper presence, licorice, dried herbs. There’s a little pocket of red fruit at its centre. The palate bears some brisk red fruit content with bite in the tannins, ending on a firm, rasping tarriness. I wonder if this could have been harvested later, more ripely; it doesn’t coalesce at present, the tannic ripeness a question mark. 65% Gren, 20% Mourv, 15% Syrah. From 2021. 2035-37 Oct 2018

2012

(large barrels, bottling March 2014) shiny dark red. Softly black berry fruited aroma, just a bit limited and clipped in its expression, is “on the steel” for now. The palate runs directly via a rather seared, demanding, tight fruit and a firm, eau de vie siding. The fruit lacks welcome as it stands, stands on an unyielding platform. It is a bit hard to read today. From 2016 – allow time. 14.5°. 12,000 b. 2028-30  Dec 2013

2011 ()

(oak casks) sound red colour. Tobacco and flint airs precede shiny black fruit. This is a nose with potential, is modern in style, has oaked notes. The palate gives sleek fruit inside a nutty-oak casing. It swings along well, the smoke-char prevailing on the finish. The aftertaste is gummy, with aniseed in it and notes of laurel and herbs. The fruit only gets a small showing under its current regime. Raw goods. From 2015. 14.5°. 65% Gren, 20% M, 15% Syr, 11,000 b this year. 2024-26  Dec 2012

2010

(vat/oak casks) inviting dark red; crunchy, pebbly air with sweet ripe fruit and gras matter within – it is a grounded bouquet with a good and thorough plum fruit in it. On Day 2, note it is brut de cuve, the sweetness is a little sweaty. The palate has fine qualities at its debut; the fruit is aromatic, has a gourmet finesse, the tannins ripe. Lovely texture, high quality fruit, just a bit of malic style acidity lying on the outside. The aromatic, herbal influence is striking. Has a delicate freshness. From 2014. 14°. 2032-34 Dec 2011

2009 ()

quite full red; smoky-tar style nose that is grounded, oak-influenced, shows grainy black fruit within, strong charcoal airs. Brisk debut to the palate, has a rustic depth, the tannins are challenging. Oak puts in its contribution. The content is stretched by its raising – this has an abrasive side now. From 2014 – it needs time, so skip its youth and go straight to middle age. 70% vat, 30% oak this year. 2024-26 July 2011

2008

good shine in the dark red robe; peppery, enjoyable nose that comes with a nice sprinkle of black pepper, and well-cut black fruit behind, smoke – a good ensemble in the bouquet. The palate gets off to a supple start, offers round, amiable black fruit with richness in it, and the late emergence of smoky tannin. Suited to CHR – the restaurant, bistrot trade. It drinks well now, the fruit is typical Grenache, with support from the Mourvèdre a key factor in it. To 2019-21. July 2011 Previously Nov 2009 *** (cask, to be bottled summer 2010) dark robe; prominent oak, chocolate on the bouquet. Mild, rich debut to the palate, with oak starting infiltrate it. It ends quietly and in an orderly way. Nice violet tints in its black fruit. 2018-19 Nov 2009

2007 ()

full red; oak, nut front to the bouquet – liqueur black fruit behind. There is nice juice within a very oaked regime – this has strict sides. The oak masks the sense of place – is a strong influence. From mid-2012. Bottled June 2009, still settling. 2024-26 Nov 2009

2006

steady red robe. Red cherry aroma, with ”bone” in the bouquet – it is quite solid, still upright, a traditional style. Level run of red fruit along the palate, quiet guts shown from half way. Length OK. Not an aspirational wine, just a steady do. A little late smoky moment or two. Get on an do, an honest drop. From spring 2009. 2021-23 Nov 2008 Previously June 2008 **(*) red plum/raspberry robe that is nicely bright. Has a nutted, red cherry, ripe fruit aroma that borders on “high” fruits. It is still very primary – the fruit comes with no extras, although there is a hint of some herbs and liqueur. A concern is that it is already rather flat. The palate is also led by a modern style red cherry flavour – it shows some of the popular, soaked cherries, griottes, and then maybe some late oak or nuttiness as it tightens a little. A pretty wide, rather “spotless” wine, once removed from the vineyard rather than right from it. It is not very local now. There is dryness on the finish. From late 2009. 14°. 2019-21 June 2008

2005 No Rating

as they say in Yorkshire: trouble at t’mill here. 3 bottles tried (all blind tasted) and all struggling. Bottle 1: bright, dark plum colour; broad shouldered aroma – blackberry, a little tar, and nice sweet spice. The palate is dry throughout, with obvious acidity, suggestion of taint. Bottle 2: unclear peppery aroma, cork and taint on palate. Bottle 3: rather inky, oily nose with some raspberry eau de vie. The palate starts tautly, this is a wine with tension throughout it, and it lacks a true fruit inset. The fruit-alcohol mix is uncertain, unconvincing, the end rather vacant. June 2008

2004 ()

mild red robe; prune, red stone fruit air, a little toasted-roasted is the nose. The palate gives red fruits with some crisp appeal and character. The finish shows pebbly red fruit, along with some heat, which is a concern – its proportion to the depth of the matter may skew the wine. More round and together from 2008. 2019-22  Dec 2006 Previously July 2005 ***(*) (cask) (cask) wide, quite meaty nose with inset fruit. The palate shows good depth straight away - the fruit is expressive and runs along well. A quietly concentrated wine, with round tannins within. The finish is good and wide and long – this is a wine of potential. 2019-20 July 2005

2003 ()

full, through bouquet bearing ripe fruit. The palate has a full, tasty start – its tannins bound along and take over the last part of the journey. The nose and the attack are superior to the finish. A wine still in evolution, whose tannins need to soften in order to render pleasure. Try 2007 on. 2018-21 July 2005

1997 ()

quite a dark, matt plum robe. The bouquet shows airs of brambly fruit berries, has depth and variety, starts the wine well. The palate is soft, the matter fair; it could have a shade more fat, and drifts on the finish. Low profile. From late 2000. 2014-16  April 1999

1996

matt tone, fair red colour; the bouquet has a fungal side with its red plum fruit aroma, isn’t very fresh. The palate has fair weight, sound enough matter, runs OK. There is a tussle between the Grenache ageing and getting the acids off its back. Not bad. It is a bit strange; I rather like its texture, and it needs to slot into place. From 2001. 2013-15  April 1999

1995 ()

fairly dark red; there is an air of hay on the nose, with some garrigue herbs and a note of damson plum. The palate expresses stone red fruit, is safe and fair all round. Lacks a spark of interest. From 2001. 2012-14  April 1999

1992

(vat) middling red robe; dark, cooked aromas, a bit sweet. The palate has dark fruits attack, fair depth. Lacks genuine fullness; there is quite a plump fruit extract on the finish, some very soft tannins. The fruit extract is pretty good. Early drinking, esp 1996-99. July 1993

1991

medium depth red robe. Restrained nose, but there is a firm feel to it. The palate is rather upright, offers some weight. There is lots of chewiness on the end, but there it is severe, the tannins abrupt. Not sure it has the core to take its tannins. 2001-03. July 1993

1990

there are still red tints in the dark orange robe. Has an earthy, grounded, solid nose – it shows brewed quince, and combines pepper and flowers such as peony. Calm, measured depth on the palate – this is nice and full, honest local wine with a nice gain in heat, a local imprint. Good terroir statement here. Its solid nature comes in the eye of the vintage, its core is rich and mature, still right there. 2021-23 March 2009

1989

good, dark robe. Cooked, wooded aromas, some spice, leather – this is a good dimension above his Sablet. The palate has plenty to it – it is really big, but is skilfully controlled. Very thorough, very genuine Gigondas made with modern care and control. The result is very favourable – a true, satisfying, local wine of its place. From 1996-97 – will be great then. An excellent winter wine once it is embarking on its secondary phase. 2009-12 July 1993