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The Wines

Viognier from granite soils on Rochecourbe (1980), Paton (1984, 0.7 hectare, full S facing), Côte Bellay (1970s) at Malleval, Luzin at Chavanay (early 2000s), also Saint Pierre-de-Boeuf, 10-20% new, 80-90% 1-2-3 year 228-litre & 350-litre oak cask fermented, raised 11-12 months (before mid-2010s part vat-fermented, then oak, and raised 50% each new, 1-year oak 9 months on its lees), malo completed, 5-6,100 b

2019 ()

1) (new 228-litre cask, Paton) ***(*) firm yellow from the new oak; the bouquet is sturdy, has an apricot, peach aroma, cooked citrus, oak, a strong note of white peach. The palate is broad, quite charged, but keeps moving, the finish meaty, robust, late glow there. It’s a little vintage marked, but not static. 14.25°. 6 years 2) (used 350-litre cask, Côte Bellay, malo doing) ***(*) yellow; the nose is buttery, shows white plum, peach-apricot. This is elegant, carries granite clarity, has a good frame, nice fresh length, some flair and kindness in its delivery. This is rather fine. 7 years Feb 2020

2018

quite a full yellow; aniseed appears on a lucid bouquet, which is discreet, has a hint of tangerine, melted butter, with oak. The palate has a rich debut, is very plushly textured, holds ample gras, is savoury, and destined for Vieille France, sauced dishes. There’s a note of infused tea, with butterscotch on the aftertaste. It’s a sphere, needs decanting. Flavours of white raisin, apricot, exotic fruits come through on the finish and aftertaste. It has a lot of richness, is on volume, lacks a bit of late freshness, is on apricot, jam”, Anthony Paret. From late 2020 for more definition. 14°. 2025-26 Feb 2020

2017 ()

full yellow; the nose is enclosed, shows light grilling, ripe white plum, can show more. The palate has a ripe, rich start, but rolls along, isn’t static, is in a good zone now. It’s not very expressive, but drinks well, gives late touches of detail, mineral, has fine freshness, with camomile, quince plum and its little cut on the close. 14°. 2024-25 Feb 2020

2016

apricot, pear feature on the nose with a good mineral thread, likewise balance of depth and freshness. The palate holds suave and cosy gras richness, is tasty, comes with well judged white fruit content with squeeze of texture, and late dried fruits style grip and a pocket of late spice. This is stylish, tasty. “It has belle balance, freshness, will be much better next year,” Anthony Paret. Bottled six weeks ago. 13.5°. 6,080 b. 2022-23 Nov 2017

2014

yellow robe; there is an attractive abundance straight off the bat on the bouquet, peach and cooked pear foremost, a good, running aroma. The palate’s flavour centres on cooked banana, apricot juice, light mandarin on the finish, which is neat and also rather flamboyant. This is stylish, is a good 2014. It tapers a tiny bit, but is an above average Condrieu, good and fresh. 13.5°. €27 at the cellars. Oct 2015

2006

soft, bit of bonbon sweets and toast in the nose – has pear spice and white pepper hints. Soft, rather hidden palate – comes in an elegant, understated style. Later on there is some chewiness and grip. Safe, workmanlike wine, with OK length. 13°. From Sept 2007. 2011-12 June 2007

2004 ()

bouquet shows refinement - light bonbon, nuttiness. Palate has interesting sinew, pear, white fruit taste. 3/4 weight wine, is elegant towards finish, where there is oak. March 2005

2003

warm, oily bouquet, melted butter on bold show. Gutsy, big wine with oak traces. Solid but clear, excess heat on finish, works on its power, the length determined by the alcohol. March 2005

2002

(cask) restrained, quite light, classic aroma; gradually expands through palate, tender, simply founded wine.

2001

light floral aroma. Ripe wine, peaches, pear skin. Boiled sweet texture, touch sweet. Length grows with air. Likeable.