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The Wines

Viognier (1980) from schist, some grey-blue clay on South facing soils on Volan at Malleval, 10-20% new, 80-90% 1-2-3-4-5 year 228-litre & some 400-litre oak cask fermented, raised 12 months (before mid-2010s part vat-fermented, then oak, and raised 100% new 228-litre oak casks 9 months on its lees), 3,000-4,500 b

2019

1) (4-year 228-litre cask, malo not yet) **** firm yellow robe; the nose has a tropical leaning, is grapey, on ripe nectarine. The palate starts on citrus – orange, tangerine, gets out and goes, carries style in its gras, good waves of it, a well judged richness, notes of quince, white tobacco late on. Juicy, suave richness unfurls along it. 14.5°. 4,000 b. 6-8 years 2) (1-year 400-litre cask, a larger size to compare with previous, malo doing) **** close to ****(*) marked yellow robe; has a good, broad aroma that is close-knit, has spice, buttery, pineapple airs. The palate comes with a compact couch - this is STGT Volan, combines muscle and depth, with a fluid run of rich matter. It’s proper Condrieu, for la table, gives a real good feel, style in its gras richness, is very tasty without heat, excess. Terroir over vintage here, bingo! “The grapes were small, and there’s a lot of richness from Volan,” Anthony Paret. 10 years Feb 2020

2018

yellow robe; peach, cooked lemon airs feature in a good, lateral aroma, ginger and tangerine within, oak apparent. The attack holds the mineral thread of its place, with infused tea-camomile, nutty notes, greengage plum towards the finish. There’s a joli neat roundness on the close, a discreet float of grapey notions on the finish. This is a well marshalled 2018 with spine and direction that work well, minerality in it. It’s still discreet, so decant it. 13.5°. 2031-33 Feb 2020

2016 ()

just bottled: firm yellow. Has a rich, wide, bustling nose that reflects apricot juice, mango, grapey airs – a big cocktail. The palate is coated, textured, very suave, on stewed white fruits compote, banana before a bergamot-tangerine cool run towards the finish; there’s compressed juice with gradual release here. As usual, it has a red wine semblance - it is a thorough Condrieu. The aftertaste is spiced – a good surprise there. Decanting advised. 13.5°. From 2019. 2026-28 Nov 2017

2015 ()

rich yellow colour. The intro on the nose plunges into tropical fruits, ginger, mandarin chunks, apricot. There is pineapple with some oak on the palate, which gives a wholesome, pretty instant richness, on the go now. It will be great with lobster Thermidor, fish in sauce, morilles mushroom, black truffle dishes. It has a cooked orange flavour, an abundance, and doesn’t hold back. It’s a tiny bit short. To 2020 Nov 2017

2014

full yellow, legs. The nose is profound, gives airs of vanilla, a note of ginger, nuts, apricot juice, a little cooked pear. The palate is close-knit, has a red wine frame and body. It is salted, with a touch of dried fruits, as well as peach and nut-biscuit combinations, white peach and brioche. This will go with a large variety of dishes – Asiatic cuisine, white meats, turbot, chicken of Bresse with morilles mushrooms: it is a real wine of terroir. The meatiness combines with some freshness. Decant this. 13.5°. €30.50 at the cellars. Bottled July 2015. 2025-27  Oct 2015

2009 ()

full yellow. Candy sweets, pharmaceutical air, violet, Pez sweets. Certainly a confected start. The palate is similar – candy, bonbon flavour that lacks zip. It ends on oven baked brown sugar, barley sugar notes. Food a must. Is this attractive? No. I don't want candy in my glass. 13.5°. To 2015. July 2010

2004 ()

overt, fleshy, pear-scented bouquet, wide open. A lot of gutsy flavour, banana style, cooked fruits, has a fat, buttery texture. Refined finish. April 2006 Previously March 2005 *** (pre-bottle) varnish aroma, citrus elements on bouquet. Broad, quite powerful start, alcohol comes through, stone fruits, kirsch effects. Meaty wine in the house style. Has gras that persists. Oaked finish.

2003 ()

gold tints. Smoky, fruit tart cake aroma, as if later cropping, but the extreme heat plays a big role. Broad, big-sided wine. Fat, not especially fresh, oak mingles in on the finish. Weighty and meaty, is potent: near dessert wine in style. March 2005

2002 ()

(cask) fairly ripe, earthy nose - caramel/bit exotic; solid wine with shoulders; decent gras at its core, almost tannic end, oak takes over too much. From 2005

2001 ()

good, wide Poire William, touch apricot bouquet; solid, quite mighty wine, overt richness. Meaty, touch heated at end from the schist. Dry pear finish.