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The Wines

Viognier from granite soils on Merlan at Limony, Les Côtes at Chavanay (late 1980s, early 2000s, av age 18 yrs in 2015), cool decantation after pressing, fermented at 13-18°C, raised 7% new (down from 10-20% new until late 2010s, 93% 1-6 year 228-litre oak casks (range of used casks increased from 1-year to 6 years max late 2010s) 8-10 months, lees stirred, comes in a tall bottle, “decant this in its first year, drink with scallops, foie gras, fish in cream sauces, chicken with morilles mushrooms, desserts”, 3,500-4,500 b

2018 ()

shiny yellow; apricot leads an elegant nose, has a rather pure air of white peach, a touch of quince, vanilla. The palate attacks on soft white fruits’ a compote, pear notably, the texture squeezy. This is genuine, unhurried, cosy Condrieu with quiet freshness on the close. It’s in the zone now, has a dab of apricot, dried fruits on the close. There is a lightly cool tenor running through it, it is very calm. 13°. 4,500 b. €30. To 2024 Feb 2020

2015

fully set yellow robe. The nose bounds out on rich, tropical fruits such as mango, layered with a buttery insistence. The palate links closely to the nose, serving a rich coat of white fruits, ripe peach, nectarine. It stands its ground well in its sturdy, well clad finish. This is a good, properly full 2015, suited to monkfish, tuna, salmon, a real fest of outer fat and innate strength from those pairings. This can live thanks to its balance. 13°. 3,500 b. 2022-23 Oct 2016

2014

mild yellow robe. The nose gives a plump aroma of peach fruit, the fruit near the peach stone, has a cooked pear sidecar. The palate is full and lively, a good combination. This will accompany well dishes such as daurade, sea bass in fennel, white meats. The finish shows some aniseed, licorice in a light, agreeable crunch. This covers the ground well. 12.5°. To 2019  Oct 2015 

2013

full yellow robe. Peach, pear aroma with a little nugget of mineral, a cooked fruits aspect; the nose is pretty fresh. The palate offers a gentle run of soft white fruit with a little florality, ends with grace. This drinks solo, as a comely aperitif. It is a neat Condrieu, not an overly expressive one. 12.5°. 4,000 b. To 2018  Jan 2015

2012 ()

yellow robe. Sleekly coated, fat aroma, airs of glazed fruits, varnish and beeswax – the aroma reaches across the glass. The palate starts broadly, before it trims down well, enjoys an attractive mineral tang stretch. The flavour is close to a Riesling petrol in style, with a lime, pear essence. More for foods than aperitif. 12.5°. 10% new oak. 2017-18  Nov 2013

2011 ()

yellow colour; has a curvy, apricot jam aroma with banana, pear and flan also, a gentle note of spice and white raisin to season it. The palate is good and full: this is a traditional style Condrieu with gourmand virtues. It doesn’t have the mineral snap of the most noble zones (tasted blind), its fatness suggesting more southern areas in the appellation. An appealing food wine, though: sweetbreads (ris de veau), pieds and paquets (trotters), couscous dishes all suited – it has the gras for stronger flavours. Good length. 12.5°. To 2017  Nov 2012

2009 ()

bright, pale yellow. Squeezy fruit, notably pear aroma – right inside the pear, banana also, probably from its vinification. The palate is firmly founded, its weight sustained all through, ending solidly. Not a charm wine – it is grounded, meaty, visceral. Cooked fruits on a finish that glows with some heat. 12.5° on label. To 2014. July 2010

2008 ()

bright, quite full yellow colour. Attractive bouquet – lime, honey, ripe apricot and pear, brown sugar briefly in the oven, all mixed up – its quality is that it is in the air, not heavily grounded. The palate is very ready now, offers short-term drinking. Has assured weight and integration of fruit, also acidity and tannin. It ends firmly and well, the length is good. Has balance, can do the aperitif. Brown sugar traces on the aftertaste. 12.5°. To 2012. Dec 2009

2006

some gold in the yellow robe; the nose is evolving – pear, smoky fruit cakes, a hint of varnish. The palate is evolving – this is a rich style of wine that provides some burnt, caramel flavours. The flavour is rather obscure – it is all wrapped together, a ripe do, but not easy to pinpoint. A touch of late power comes through, but it is only 13.5°, he says. Previously Jan 2008 *** confirmed yellow colour, towards apricot and pale gold. Soft, typical Viognier pear heart to the aroma, holds a mid-weight ripeness. The palate has quite an attractive apricot-pear flavour. This has some cohesion about it, unlike many 2006s, and genuine flow. Is a nice aperitif wine, calm and continuous. Can work with food – the awkward squad such as asparagus, celery etc. The length is good, the finish clear. 12.5°. To 2010. Jan 2008

2005

bright robe, yellow tints. Ripe aroma of baked apple and cooked pear, comes with some oak, and is springy in nature. Good, bright attack, has quite a full style on the palate, a creamy middle, and a little toasting on the fringes. Drinkable now, with sound core, in an understated manner. The length is fine, and it`s round on the finish. Just tapers a bit. To 2009. Only 12.5° on the label. Nov 2006

2004 ()

yellow tints. Buttery, banana aroma, also varnish smell, a little stewed pear. Tightly structured, a wine of patience on the palate. Shows some dried fruits flavours, but is rather locked up, and has a tannic angle. Can develop, length is sound. Varnish, fake pear drop sweets taste a worry. Banana aftertaste. Try after summer 2006. 2012. April 2006

2003

April 2006 compact aroma - brown sugar, cooked pears. The vintage heat is here, with a raisin style tone on palate, white stone fruits too. Pretty start, fair amount of matter here. Quite appealing, full wine, just lacks a top note - acidity is low. Previously March 2005 * spiced, quite heady bouquet. Full, wide palate, white fruits-custard flavour. Fair length, but is a little cellar-forced.

2002

fairly rich nose, fair amount on palate, decent material here.

2001

earthy, full semi-exotic fruit aroma; quite rich, sleek mineral elements. Quite streamlined, rather hot aftertaste (often found this year).