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The Wines

100% Marsanne (67% 1970, 33% 1901) from a rented 0.6 hectare plot on partly rotted, granite, clay-limestone soils on Hongrie at 150 metres, hand harvested, 60-75% steel vat fermented at 16-17°C, 25-40% 2-4 year old 228-litre oak cask fermented, lees stirred until end of fermentation, raised 10 months, malo completed, “an aperitif wine”, called Le Tram since 2016, 2,500-2,750 b

2018

yellow robe; the bouquet carries a little core of sunny ripeness, apricot to the fore, nutty elements. The palate is swish in the modern vein, has a flavour of wax, with varnish notes, cooked pear, peach stone and tang from that, very Marsanne. It’s a little distant in style, efficient, stretched. A tad more ripeness would have helped. 13°. 2023-24 Dec 2019

2016

yellow colour. There is a hint of mineral in with a honeycomb, pear-peach aroma on the nose, which perhaps under its bottling, not that open. The palate has a St-Péray typicity, a brief run of tangy white fruits, a gentle, spiced close. It lacks the stature of the leading 2016s, however, plays it safe. Can serve for the aperitif, gives clean drinking. To 2020 Nov 2017

2012 ()

attractive pale yellow, wee green tints in it. The bouquet is elegant, harmonious. It involves nut, lime, a light air of barley sugar, a good ensemble. The palate repeats the easy harmony of the nose; it gives well rolled, fine fruit, flavoured by peach and white plum. Fine fruit, fine acidity – drink this now, drink it well, but do not over-face it with dishes that are too rich. 13°. €15 at the cellars. 2018-19  Nov 2013