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The Wines

92-98% Marsanne (oldest 1942-44, average 35 years), 2-8% Roussanne, 70% steel vat fermented at 16-17°C, 30% new 228-litre oak cask fermented, raised 33% new, 67% 1-3 year oak casks 11 months, weekly lees stirring at first, malo completed, 10,000 b

2018

pale yellow; the bouquet is low-key, shows a little butteriness, flan, hints of apricot, vanilla. The palate comes with a stewed, dried fruits flavour, holds soft richness, is neat and not ambitious. There is carbonic gas towards the finish, which keeps it “up”. It’s light enough for the aperitif. 13°. To 2023 Dec 2019

2016 ()

yellow colour. Orange marmalade, grapey, musky ripeness on the nose, an underlay of cooked lemon. The palate springs out well, goes freely, with a soft line of gras all through. The fruit is pure, is founded around peach with quince and its freshness. The finish is clear, direct. This is a good aperitif as it stands, though at €19.50 retail at the cellars it may be steep for that. This is joli, good w.o.w. drinking wine. 13°. 2020-21 Nov 2017

2015

fine yellow colour. There is cooked lemon, toasted, vanilla presence on the nose, a touch of cooked pears. The palate comes with restraint, has medium weight, and a small ball of richness. Rather New Wave in approach – hence the absence of real depth and fireworks. It glides along carefully, is perfectly OK, not more. 13°. To 2020 Nov 2017

2014 ()

bright, fine yellow robe. The nose is oak seasoned, hence a vanilla presence, with a supple air of white fruits behind. The palate starts directly, a little quietly, has a New Wave tendency via its restraint and easy flow. It would struggle alongside full flavoured dishes, can serve for the aperitif. It is unmemorable, tame, droops after half way. The aftertaste has a little floral aspect. 12.5°. To 2018  Oct 2015  Previously March 2015 **(*) pale robe. Has a soft pear aroma in a light bouquet that also gives wisps of white flowers and aniseed. The palate is a quiet do; the acidity is fine, and it holds a bit of sugary gras richness that isn’t convincing. It lacks real depth, is somewhat constructed – it glances at you rather than looks at you. Bottled Feb 2015, so there is some cause for dumbness from that recent event. 13°. To 2018  March 2015

2012

flint pale colour. Peanut, nutty, hazelnut first air, with a light floral sense – a bouquet that floats nicely. This is softly fruited, carries orange, citrus influences with the length sound; this is all neatly wrapped. Provides a sound aperitif, or drink with lightly flavoured dishes. A little acidity and grip comes through on the finish. Regular Guy St Jo white, a pupil of the lighter school. The finish fades a wee bit, but then there is extra licorice darkness on the exit. 13°. 97% Mars, 3% Rouss. €9.70 export. 10,000 b. 2017-18  Nov 2013

2009 ()

(casks) yellow robe; exotic fruits, cooked banana aroma. The palate has a solid heart, with the merit of some mineral around it to ease matters. This can become interesting and varied by 2013, for instance. The spiced finish is good. 2018-20 July 2010

2008 ()

pale, flint robe. Soft, candy aroma, white jam here. The palate is also immediate; shows quiet fat, has a later, tighter moment thanks to its 98% Marsanne this year. The flavour is peach, hazelnut. Drink now. 13°. To 2013 Dec 2009

2007

2 bottles tasted, the first pungent and lacking balance. 2nd bottle: very oaked bouquet, wide and deep with its wood. Orange marmalade present also. There is sound heart on the palate, with honey early, then the later flavour of vanilla and orange peel again. Hasn`t yet got a settled core, and I suspect has just been bottled. Leave until mid-2010. Can move along OK. 13°. To 2017. Dec 2008

2006 ()

mild yellow colour; has an oaked nose with some richness – the aroma is of dried fruits, pineapple and oak. The oak is partly blended in, so provides a a good, smoky top note. Has a touch of the banana on the attack. The texture is rich and it ends on a crème brulée, buttery level, which is also good and clear. If you like or don't mind oak, drink now; otherwise, leave this until 2009. There is some late heat in what is a big wine, best suited to sauced fish dishes, for instance. 13°. 2014-15 Dec 2007

2004 ()

well-weighted bouquet with oak hints, some depth to it, also a smoky hazelnut wisp. The toasted imprint dominates the palate, this is a wine of sinew and still making itself. Sound length, dried fruits then give way to oaking on the finish. Sound content, nice style. Best with food. Has made great progress in six months. 2012-13 June 2006 Previously Dec 2005 **(*) honeyed, quiet aroma, toast from the oak, a little peach and hazelnut. Gentle fruit on palate, peach flavour comes through. Gentle finish. Low-key wine.

2003

dried fruit, citrus and some spice on nose, with an undertone of toast, oak. Buttery, modern style to attack, is fairly rich and continues along a buttery route. Quite warm, solid finish. Fatter than usual, as the hot vintage makes its mark. 2009-11 March 2005 Previously (cask/vat) *** floral, quite broad nose; sound texture, some richness.

2002 ()

hazelnut, light honey aroma. Dried fruits, well-directed, get on and do wine. Tangy, likeable fruit. Good length. I'm sure the limestone brings the verve, and the iodine tang. Persists well, has flourished in last year. 2012. Dec 2004 Previously Dec 2003 *** honeysuckle/apple nose, lightly sweet. Fairly full, some zest, light butterscotch, clean end. Early wine.

2001 ()

solid, vigorous nose; chewy white fruit, nice grip on the palate. Sound, full enough flavour, good cut also. Sit-down, serious wine. 2010-12

2000 No Rating

No Rating - fresh nose, bit short; brief flourish, then palate stops. Fades, is dull. Tasted several times, still short in Dec 2003

1999

sappy, ripe fruit, almost Riesling; subtle, not very deep. Honey style, tangy, toasted/salted end.

1998 ()

quite fat bouquet. Nice fullness on palate. Agreeable, easy Marsanne style.

1997

winey, overt aroma, some evolution after two years - honey, wax. Honey, butter flavours, hint of damp straw

1991

level yellow colour; bouquet mixes greengage, honey and light Riesling-style petrol. Ripe fruit on palate, has a lurking almond touch, can still develop. 2005-07 Sept 1999