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The Wines

100% 1975 Marsanne from 1 hectare on clay-limestone soils on Les Royes, hand harvested, fermented new 228-litre oak casks, raised 80% new, 20% 1-year oak casks 16-18 months, weekly lees stirring, malo completed, first wine 2001, 3,000 b

2018 ()

yellow robe; the bouquet mixes reduction and oak, is still making its way; there are airs of wax, high tone, banana [cultured yeasts], white peach. The palate serves a flavour of stewed white fruits with a floral touch, has refined freshness, the depth aided by the age of the vines, and their little sève or sap. Like the house whites here, it has been made to a safe formula, but that extra note of richness gives it some dimension. From mid-2020 at the earliest to allow more oak fusion. Decant it. 2026-27 Dec 2019

2017 ()

fine yellow robe; the nose has a peach, roasted almonds aroma, a buttery foundation, notes of orange peel. The palate involves peach stone, vanilla-toasting, is well together, the texture suave. It continues well, is long, extends nicely. There’s plenty on the back palate – still a bit untamed there. From 2021 to settle the finish. The texture appeals – it’s very silken, and glycerol lies at its heart. 13.5°. 2028-30 Feb 2020

2016

(228-litre cask, bottling in 10 days) full yellow. The nose holds its own with the oak thanks to its rich ball of tropical style fruits, mango, with orange marmalade, white tobacco. This is fluid and open on the attack, bears a wavy richness, has a good, smooth texture. The flavour delivers peach, table grapes, smoke from oak. There is a very good ensemble of elements here. Oak pushes into the close - it is rich and stylish enough to handle that. Lots of juice, lots of flow here. From spring 2019. 2024-26 Nov 2017

2015

yellow robe. The nose has a fine intensity, a lingering air of stem ginger, notes of bergamot, orange zest, saltiness. It shows the depth of the vintage. The palate is still on its oak, has a warm richness at its centre, a flavour of dried fruits, pear skin, with firm Marsanne grip on the finish. This is a good, clear, slightly sinewed St Jo blanc, where the limestone has helped to offset the vintage depth of fat. From mid-2018. 2026-27 Nov 2017

2012

(casks) yellow colour, wee green tints. Oak is prominent immediately on the nose, has a pear-peach, quince fruit inlay, is still making its way, has a round heart of gras richness. There is an elegant, consistent run of ripe richness through the palate, the oak casking set pretty precisely around it. This is a question of time: drink from mid 2015 – the oak should settle. The length is good. Has the potential for style, flair and gracious drinking. 13°. 97% Mars, 3% Rouss. €13.70 export. 3,000 b. 2019-21  Nov 2013

2009 ()

(casks) yellow robe; hazelnut-pear aroma that is rather attractive, has the fullness of the vintage. There is a slight carbonic gas feel to the start of the palate, with hazelnut lining, and sturdy matter within. It motors on with intent, finishes clearly. 2016-18 July 2010

2004 ()

open, expansive bouquet, with flan, some spice, is profound and clear. The palate continues the theme of a clear, but nicely full wine. Oak takes over from half way, the aftertaste is tangy. Esp mid-2007 on, since the oak intrudes now. Very clear finale, that needs time to develop and vary. 2013-14 June 2006

2003

(cask) full, replete bouquet, white fruits. Custard/caramel flavour on attack, white fruit with a spice/mineral edge. Stylish length, very good grace in the wine. Has developed well since first tasted. 2014-16 Dec 2004 Previously (cask) *** ample, apricot/mineral nose. Rich texture, dried fruits, vigorous. Ripe style wine, toasted end. 2012-13

2002 ()

buttery, full bouquet, toasted angle from oak. Very Marsanne imprint - apricot/dried fruits, with good richness, then some rather salty, dry-toned influence. Honeyed aftertaste. Structure demands food. Evolving well. 2013 Dec 2004 Previously *** seductive, buttery/floral nose; stylish, floats a bit, pretty fruit attack. Oak at end, elegant, quiet promise. 2012-13

2001

well-knit nose, pineapple for now. Really good dried fruits, peach, then oak. Stylish, fleshy, sound length. From 2005 to let the oak absorb. 2012-13