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The Wines

Viognier (av age 35 years) from granite soils at Chavanay, fermented, raised 50-70% steel vat, 30% new 228-litre oak casks 6-8 months, fined, filtered, best decanted, "drink with scallops, foie gras, cheese such as Roquefort, goat cheese – rigotte de Condrieu", 8,500-16,000 b

2018

refined yellow, appealing robe; the bouquet steals a glance, a quick show of citrus fruit, grapefruit, with a note of herbal tea. It’s only just starting out. The palate runs with clear white fruits, peach, a hint of apricot, has freshness through the second half, keeps going neatly. Its gras is stylish, and it gives a bonny glass of Condrieu, its shape good throughout. There’s a little darkness, tang on the close, a grippy moment there. From spring 2020, hoping for a cold winter. 13°. 16,000 b. €28. 2026-27 Nov 2019

2017

quite a full yellow robe; The nose comes with a discreet offer of grapey, cooked citrus airs, oak and stem ginger. It’s a solid start, inner depth present. The palate attacks on an agreeably rich, mobile roll of white fruits, the texture suave, leading into a finish with a little power, and certain grip. This drinks well now, has sound freshness, and will accompany garlic-based Mediterranean cuisine with its solid strength. 14.5°. 2022 Dec 2018

2015 ()

sturdy yellow robe. The nose is broad, not precisely defined, has a cooked pear, pretty classic Condrieu association. The palate is solid, well founded, grounded: it will benefit from decanting to prise more nuance from it. It holds a cooked apple, plum flavour without igniting the drinker. A Solid Citizen – what you see is what you get. 14.5°. 8,500 b. 2020-21 Oct 2016

2013

yellow robe, legs. Has a flan, crème patisserie, exotic fruits debut on the nose; it is nicely collected, restrained for now, shows light oak and nuttiness. It is fat wine with good acidity, and appealing gras richness. It lengthens well, ends freshly. Good Condrieu that avoids some of the strength without the flair features of some wines this year. 12,000 b. 13.3°. €18 export, fair. GB £28.75 Liberty Wines 2019-20  Jan 2015

2012

pale yellow. Wax-oily, agreeably rounded nose with an air of peach skin, light pear. The palate is long on gras, has a coated texture. The fruit has citrus, mandarin dabs, and isn’t especially precise. The finish is firm, solid, and shows a little strength. Genuine wine, needs food. 13.5°. 10,000 b this year. €17.50. To 2018  Nov 2013

2011 ()

opaque, pear, light cream colour. Has a tropical fruits, banana aroma, guava and passion fruit: suddenly we’re inBrazil, oba, oba. It displays a honey-vanilla second layer of lesser exuberance and greater poise. The palate gives a good, hearty mouthful – it is full of pear fruit, pear close to the skin; it shows traditional virtues, a firm lining. The end is compact, solid. Has lots of flavour, is a little short on nuance, hidden items. Manly, food-suited: bar, wild bass, daurade excellent with this. 13°. To 2018.  Nov 2012

2008 ()

pale yellow. Beeswax, apricot aroma that is graceful, and a floral violet or iris air adds to its charm. Has an agreeable, honeyed debut to the palate, which gains in grip and a pebbly surround as it goes. Flavour is white fruit, plum or quince-like. It ends firmly, a bit stiff from its oak. Bottled May 2009. I would leave this until spring 2010. 14.5°. To 2015. Nov 2009

2007 ()

flinty robe; pear, apricot lead fruit aroma, with the air of boiled sweets, butter and a little oak. The palate has a quiet richness, with steady length. It could be more defined, more focused – it is a shade tubby. 14.5°. To 2011. March 2009

2006

confirmed yellow colour; the nose is intrinsically broad, with a little melted butter, but dumb at present. The palate is rather pieced together – is a little sugary, with a bit of apricot, but never gets off the ground: has a brown sugar end that is not convincing. Residual sugar here? Modest wine that is not integrated. 14.5°. To 2009. Jan 2008

2005 ()

marked yellow colour; broad, buttery nose, with a little oak toasting alongside some cooked lime – wide and live aromas. The palate is different – tight-knit, quite masculine and dips before quite a chewy finish. The finish is quite clear, but this is going through a quiet phase – leave till mid-2007. Structured to live – there are good elements and harmony to come. Persistent wine. 13.5°. To 2011. Nov 2006

2004

baked tart aroma, some reserve and potential, too. Attractive attack, shows apricot, smoky dried fruits. Tannic style length and fresh finish, taste of fruit skins. Structured wine with pretty fat mid-palate. Final grip is good, persists well and is a fairly big style of wine. I like the flavour. To 2012 April 2006 Previously March 2005 *** (pre-bottle) good bouquet, rounded shape, has serious potential; lightly almond nut. Full, nicely charged attack, soft pear fruit, with and rich, beautiful texture. Length and richness are good, with some acidity to keep it going.

2003

yellow tints. Big, broad bouquet - pear/apricot skins, melted butter, oak traces. Full, well-knit wine, plenty here, just keeps its alcohol under control. Some oak on finish, and the hot vintage rasp. Overall, has a clear flavour. Is a sipping wine because of its scale rather than a free and easy drinking wine.

2002

(vat) direct, light floral/fruit nose; quiet, some gras, easy texture, touch short

2001

pretty, broad nose, ripe, touch salty; tasty, fleshy wine with some acidity. Persists well, light nutty tightening at end.

2000

white fruit/flan with smoky edge; nice sinew, restrained gras, compact wine, creamy tone. Salty, well-defined end.

1999

pear aromas; white fruit/pear/peach flavour, toasted end. Good length, well-weighted, full finish. Plenty to offer.

1998

floral/pear/oak nose; quite rich on attack, nice length, smoked oak, touch burnt finish. Apricot/peach are its fruit flavours.