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The Wines

60-65% Viognier (early-mid 2000s), 31-36% Cugnette (a cousin of Jacquère, 1950s), 4% Chardonnay (8 rows at Clos de Château Ronzons, mid-1970s-mid-1980s) from galet stone soils on a rented vineyard on Clonas across the Rhône in the Isère (38), fermented, raised 5-6 year 600-litre oak cask 8 months, malo completed, first wine 2011, 20,000 b

2018 ()

yellow robe; live, bursting bouquet, lots on offer – salted notes, apricot, peach. The palate takes up a nicely rich baton, gives a full sweep of dried fruits, vanilla pod, peach on the close, a touch of tannin, glow there. This is very expressive. 14°. 65% Vio this year, usual 60%. €11.50 here. 2022 Feb 2020

2016

yellow robe, a few green tints. The nose has peach, apricot airs, a note of fennel, is well rounded, plump. The palate shows a glimpse of mineral, and drinks very easily, has a gras richness that persists softly, and extends without effort. It’s a touch low on acidity. There’s a wee note of salt late on. 12.5°. 2020-21 Mar 2018