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The Wines

made in 1996, 1999, 2001, 2004, 2006, 2010, 2011, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, late Nov harvest, from granite soils on Chanson, Mève, Boissey, 4 successive pickings - the first two with noble rot or botrytis, the last two passerillés, cool 3 day decantation, fermented, raised new 600-litre oak cask over two summers, monthly lees stirring, malo blocked, contains around 65-70 gm residual sugar, comes in 50 cl bottles, called Grain de Folie until 2011, not made every year, 2,900 b

2018 ()

(cask) gold, full robe. The bouquet leads on a pear in syrup aroma, suggests later harvested Viognier. It has a treacle, rich aroma, a note of damp wool above. The palate resembles a good vin de paille from Hermitage, is rich, compact, tasty, doesn’t overdo the fuelling. I like its structure, which gives it frame and control. It’s persistent, into a firm finish. The flavours resemble brioche, nuts, white raisin. It will be great with truffle, mushroom dishes. There is salt on the conclusion, which renders it more decisive than weighted. 2036-38 Nov 2019

2017 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2016

(600-litre cask) gold-tinted yellow robe. The nose is good, offers airs of cooked pear, lime, a good mix. There’s neat ripeness and freedom. There is very true Viognier Vendange Tardive on the palate, with salted touches in its big orange cooked flavour, with pear skin, apricot and toasting. It is very likeable, and is tenacious on the finish, with concerted grip, its decisive end a good card. “It was 19° natural at harvest time; we went through the vineyards four times in October and November; the harvest was 60% botrytis, 40% passerillage,” Stéphane Montez. 15.2°. 66 gm residual sugar. 2029-31 Mar 2018

2012 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2009 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2006 ()

full yellow colour; honey, nutted, clear aroma – shows ripe apricot, baked pear aromas. The palate has a profound flavour – white fruits, vanilla pod, with an oak tension late on. The length is pretty good, this has stuffing, good matter. From 2010 especially, to allow the oak to absorb. Tasty wine that can certainly live. The aftertaste is toffee, sizzled butter. 15.4°, 66 gm of residual sugar. To 2030-32, say. Bottled 10 Dec 2007. June 2008

2004 ()

bright, low-key gold colour. Refined, nicely full nose - pear to be found here, a little licorice. Butterscotch, orange marmalade flavour with a marked salty tang. Oak-honey end - draws to a tight, rather dry end. Uneven now - oak versus content debate. From 2008. 2012-14 April 2006

1999 ()

Oxford marmalade nose, varied, has honey, apricot, lemon hints. Full skin fruit, brown sugar flavour; oak comes back, mixed with orange peel. Leave till 2004 or so.