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The Wines

Viognier (mid-1970s) from granite soils, direct pressing, wild yeasts, fermented, raised 3-year 228-litre oak casks 6-8 months, lees stirred, fined, tall bottle, 1,200-1,500 b

2018

yellow, rather lustrous robe; the bouquet is generous, rounded, on aniseed, pastis airs, peach and nuts. The attack is solid, presents a wall of durable white fruit flavour, is thorough, well formed. The flavour resembles flan, brioche bread. It will age pretty well, gradually evolving. Its length is sustained, and it’s suited to white meats, Szechuan, spiced cuisine. It has good integrity, comes across as a natural, abundant Condrieu. 14°. €36. 2025-26 Nov 2019

2017 ()

opaque yellow colour; the bouquet has a note of aniseed, cooked pear, could be fresher. The palate comes with a subdued flavour of apricot, pear, grapiness, vanilla-oak toasting, isn’t a real unit. It’s a low-key Condrieu, lack of freshness and lift an issue. 14°. Drink now until mid-2020. Dec 2018

2015 ()

shiny yellow robe, a handsome start. The nose has the inner strength of the vintage, isn’t showy; there is a grilled air, with white raisin, white tobacco, caramel, quince paste. The palate chugs along on a steady run of likeable gras richness, with a smooth texture to accompany it. This drinks well now, has a late elegance in its droplets of white fruit. 13.5°. 1,500 b. €18.50. To 2019 Oct 2016

2014 ()

shiny yellow robe. Spicy, ginger snap, petrol airs feature on the nose, which as such is out of the loop. There is a marked pine air from its oak. The palate duly delivers content with prominent pine-oak influence. It isn’t settled, not a whole as it stands. The degree glows on the aftertaste. Work to do here. Not sure. Try from mid-2016. 13.5°. 1,500 b. To 2019 Oct 2015 

2013 ()

full yellow colour. Bears a coated, broad aroma that is full of pear in syrup, pineapple touches. The palate is complete in substance, has a peach fruit, strawberry flavour. There are Muscat touches as it finishes. Foods required, has some character. 13.5°. €28. To 2019  Jan 2015