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The Wines

all southern sector Syrah from Paradis, Montagnon, Les Côtes (1960s, 1990s) at Mauves, Côtes des Rivoires (1910, 1960s, mid-1990s), Les Oliviers (1910, 1960s, 1975) at Tournon, southern sector, destemmed since 1995, 3-4 week vinification, daily pumping overs, occasional manual cap punchings, 1-2 part vat emptying/refillings, aged 30% new-10 year 600-litre, 70% 3-10 year old 225 & 228-litre oak casks 12 months (total of 2 new casks every year), fined, usually unfiltered, 30-32,000 b

2018 ()

1) (used 600-litre cask) ** quite a dark red; the nose is on reduction, is a bit wild, raw, airs of cooked apples, has a lactic side. The palate gives black fruit, then dries too early – the fruit goes only so far. This needs polishing. It goes into vat next week. 8 yrs 2) (used 225-litre cask) **(*) dark red; black berry fruit, prune ripeness show in a rather foxy nose. This is a solid effort on the palate, has a firm couch, with tannins giving a base to the wine. It dries early, like the previous. 9 yrs 3) (used 600-litre cask) *** quite a dark red; the nose has reduction, is warm, has an aggregate of red berries. This is the best palate so far, holds red fruits, raspberry with sinew, fibre in the tannins. It’s still a bit dry, but the fruit goes longer on this. 9-10 yrs Dec 2019

2017

red robe; spiced, black pepper airs combine with red berry, raspberry fruit. The attack is loose, holds mild richness, red cherry fruits, the tannins barely noticeable. It’s very easy, a bit simple, an early drinking wine. It has a little aromatic leaning. This is an example of what happens when the whole harvest is bottled – a relative dilution. 13°. Bottled Feb 2019. To 2023 Dec 2019 Previously March 2018 ***(*) (5-year 600-litre cask, Montagnon, Paradis, a bit of Chalaix) dark red. Soaked cherries airs feature in a nose that is all very curvy and open, has a hint of reduction. The palate attacks well, offers immediate content, decent, quite firm gras beyond, and the juice lasts well. This has matter. The tannins are ripe and rather thick, layered. 2027-29 March 2018

2016

good, shiny dark red robe, Has an easy styled nose, blackberry and an aromatic sweetness – it’s juvenile, not especially deep. The palate has a prune flavour, skips a beat or two in its filling, the texture is smooth, and there’s as mild, toffee-like finish. This has a well-mannered first half, a restrained second half, a little black juice there. It could hold more stuffing. It’s a lighter style than in the past, maybe because less wine is being sold in bulk. 13.5°. Bottled end Jan 2018. From late 2018. 2025-26 March 2018

2015

dark red. Has a good, inky nose, a hint of reduction, is nice and profound, on meat stock, mulberry-raspberry liqueur; it has a typical Mauves vibe. The palate presents well, holds good running fruits, clear tannins that add a boost; it lengthens very surely. This is STGT wine, with darkness and potential, has a good, grounded bearing. It ends on close-knit rockiness, salt… tar in the tannins. Decanting advised. 13.5°. From 2020. 2031-33 March 2018 Previously Dec 2015 **** different parts tasted: 1) (Les Oliviers, 50+ years Syrah, used 600-litre oak cask) **** notably dark red colour. Peppery, dense nose that gives layered black berry fruit, a hint of reduction. This is sunny vintage wine, holds a well-founded content/tannin mix, is wide and long. This will stay well over time, is chunky but pretty fresh. 15-17 years. 2) (Les Rivoires, 1950s, 1988/1990 Syrah, the bottom of the slope, used 600-litre oak cask) **** dark, inky robe. Reduction and game airs in a sturdy, wide nose that centres on profound, mulled black berries. The palate is tight knit, is a very good foundation wine for the blend. Its couch is solid, bears close-knit berry fruit and thick tannins. This is hearty, feet on the ground wine. 17-19 years. 3) (Paradis, Les Côtes, used 225-litre oak cask) **** dark robe. Very perfumed nose, ripples of flowers, raspberry, violets all mix on the nose. The palate is compact, with a top level of clear red fruit, substance below. The nose is building up well, and its promising palate is dense, stubborn. 17-19 years. OVERALL **** at least: pretty thick, dense wine that will take a little time, and start to drink when five to six years’ old. It is easily the “biggest” wine of the last four years. 2033-36  Dec 2015

2014 ()

red robe. The nose is attractive, on red fruits, berries with a hint of fungal, has a steady heartbeat, is discreetly profound. This is a typical Mauves wine on red berries with iron in it, the iron running through it, giving it energy. It has filling, and holds up well. It finishes on a slight note of dryness, is gummy. This is good country wine, which has attractive red juice within. “We had a good late season after a rotten summer,” J-C Marsanne. 12.5°. 2024-25 March 2018 Previously Dec 2015 *** (cask, the assembled wine) gentle red colour. Has a bright cherry aroma, the roundness of raspberry fruit, also licorice. This has an easy to like, expressive fruit lozenge flavour, the red berries typical of Mauves, the tannins mild. There is a little late spice, kick, which livens the close. It isn’t a complicated wine, is rounded. It is genuine, if a little light towards the finish. 2022-23  Dec 2015

2013

has a shiny, belle, dark red robe. The aroma is nicely dark, centres on simmered red fruits, red cherries, with hidden pockets and a wee vegetal air, pepper present. A frame of steel still sits around some pure juice on the palate. This is interesting, slow-gain northern wine. Its tannins are lively, and mix some bend with fresh breeze. This is very long; it holds very good potential, is very true, if challenging for now. The exit is perfumed. It is one for the total enthusiasts, the informed Rhône heads. 13°. Bottled March 2015. “It is a wine to drink after the 2014, and will be super beau in two to three years,” Jean-Claude Marsanne. 2026-27  Dec 2015

2012 ()

dark red colour. Loganberry blackberry aroma, large berry fruit, has a safe depth. The bouquet isn’t quite fully firing today. This glides along with good, brisk red berry fruit and a little increase in intensity towards the finish, a joli crescendo there. Its tannins fit in well and help its late depth. This is veritable, well juiced wine. Decant it. 13.5°. 2024-25  Dec 2015 Previously Oct 2012 ***(*) (Côtes des Rivoires, steel vat, harvested 22 Sept, 2.5 gm sugar still left) bold purple-black; has a flourishing nose, is nicely aromatic, shows raspberry fruit. The palate fruit is shapely, is all in one, rolls along without deviation, its tannin embedded, is sympa wine. There is a little late tannin, overall is a round wine already. 8-10 years. (Les Oliviers, steel vat, harvested 24 Sept) forward aroma, has a classy, inviting fruit air. Low acidity feel on the palate, has grainy depth, fine fruit, suggests early drinking. Nice foundation, is appealing on its perfume. 11-12 years. Oct 2012

2011

nice full red robe. The bouquet is true, full of red berry, hedgerow fruit. It holds back – you have to seek it out. It gains all the time with air. This is lively, STGT St Joseph that delivers red fruits with gusto, is a lovely wine of Mauves. Its supple red fruits are very typical of Mauves. It has a pure, unadorned quality. The fruit is tight, the length good, a touch of pepper late on.  13.5°. 2022-23  Oct 2015 Previously Oct 2012 ***(*) (two parts, bottling Feb/March 2013) Lieu-dit Saint-Joseph, 225-litre used cask ***(*) sound, full red. Smoky bacon, grilled air with a good curve of restrained black berry fruit behind, also a dustiness. The palate fruit is forward, has a smoky, bosky crackle in it, a sappy, plump spot in mid-palate, which is attractive. It moves on to a grain finish, has good length. 11-12 years. Paradis, 600-litre used cask ***(*) dark red, black tints. There are game notes on the side of the nose, hung meat in with the red fruit. This shows the sweet, very Mauves red fruits, has a lot of local expression, and there are reduction notes here as well. This bears comely fruit at its heart, is a true child of Mauves, STGT wine. The length is decent. Still raw tannins are noticeable at the end, where there is a feeling of strength. 2022-23  Oct 2012

2010

shiny dark red colour. Pine needle, simmered red fruits feature in a bouquet of calm depth, one that prolongs well. The palate delivers classic red-fruited, southern Saint-Joseph, bosky fruit, red fruit darkness. Live tannins are freshness are well woven inside it. The length is steady – it keeps ticking over. This is unadorned, true St Jo; you sense the ripe concentration of small berries. It’s a wine from the ground upwards, de la terre, fundamental. Allow time to breathe, and there’s no real hurry to drink it – it will keep on giving, and rolling between **** and ****(*). 13.5°. 2028-30 March 2016 Previously Oct 2012 ****(*) good, dark red. The nose is impressive, gives a really wide landscape and surround, shows wild hedge berries, has a local stamp, attractive licorice, mulberry fruit. The palate combines grain and red fruit, has the dust of the granite in its texture. The fruit is racy – this is a real winner, the fruit clear, smoky and the tannins bright and uplifting. STGT wine, close to the soil wine, no make-up on it. Good balance. The fruits is tasty but also cool. Bottled March 2012. 13.5°. 2024-26  Oct 2012

2009 ()

pretty dark red. Blackberry fruit in the nose, a nice and safe roundness to it. It has smoke-ash airs, licorice, fruit intensity, isn’t cool like the 2010. The flavour has dark tints in it – the sun has brought the effect of ripe prune, concentrated black jam, and it ends on full, chewy notes. It is a bit stubborn, the close is tannic, so decant this. From mid-2014. It is strong from the vintage, also has traditional virtues. 13.5°. 2023-24  Oct 2012

2007

(cask, final assemblage) perfumed aroma – violets, Pez sweets. The palate is soft, supple, scented, comes with a little late tannin and its grain in the texture, and a slight old oak aspect. Has the red fruits feel of Mauves, its vineyard of origin. From spring 2010. To 2015. To be bottled Sept 2009. March 2009

2006 ()

mid+ depth of red; the aroma shows red fruits with a light floral air in them – it is welcoming. The palate has a sound red fruit foundation, then dry style tannins appear at the end, and curl it up there. A pity about the finish. This may get going – I have known similar wines from this domaine come round gradually, but their rustic nature is engrained. Try from 2011. To 2016. March 2009

2005 ()

the heart of the robe is a good red colour, with a wee advance at the top. Red meat, red berry liaison nose that is very Mauves in style, some game with it. It shows the compact style of the vintage – the bouquet hasn’t shifted a lot. The palate lances a direct red fruit message, zap, with a little gras pocket before the finish. The gras is gaining ground to render it more fleshy, and the second half is very expressive – it finishes with brio. An STGT, genuine Malvinois wine. It is still slightly rugged. 13.5°. 2025-26  Dec 2015 Previously Nov 2006 *** quite dark, with matt hue. Stuffed bouquet with some chocolate but also a touch vegetal. Supple, savoury, bonny fruit with lots of sensory appeal. Good tannins inside it. The nose needs sorting, but the palate is very tasty now. Would be **** but for the bouquet. 2013-14 Nov 2006

2004 ()

2003

2002

2001

(vat) fair depth, reduced nose; direct, pretty black berries fruit, tar end. Likeable, length sound. 2010-11

2000 ()

tar, overt reduction bouquet; low-key black fruit, tasty, fair length. Drink early.

1999

even berry aroma; upright wine, rather burnt wild fruit, dry toned tannins. Honest local wine, esp 2004 on. 2010-12

1998 ()

game, nice depth on bouquet. Cooked fruit, some pepper. Quite full, bit dry at end. 2006-08

1991 ()

red fruit, live bouquet, forest in autumn smell. Genuine flavour here - red fruits, some spice and plum. Quite delicate, drinking well after 10 years. 2005-06.