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The Wines

100% Viognier (av age 25 years) from 5 plots (inc Jeanraude at St Michel-sur-Rhône, Peyrolland (1.5 ha, 2011-12), Le Bourg (0.3 ha, 2011) at Chavanay, Lamberte (0.3 ha, 2016) at Condrieu) on granite, limestone soils, hand harvested, direct whole bunch pressing, 3-4 hour cool, severe decantation, fermented at 20°C, raised 10-20% new, 80-90% 1-4 year 228-litre (80%) & 500-litre (20%) oak casks 8 months, lees stirred, plot wines assembled one month before bottling, fined, filtered, tall bottle, 5,000 b

2018 ()

thorough yellow robe; has a grapey aroma, melon, peach, white plum, a hint of glazed fruits’ depth, has more to come, can open and blossom. The takes a finely mineral route, bear good, ripe cladding, with grip-tang towards the finish, has solid length. This can open up, will benefit from decanting. Good late control is very important for its quality, structure. It flows well into the finish, where there is some late oak thickness. 13.5°. 5,000 b. 10% new oak. €37. From mid-2020. 2026-27 Dec 2019

2017 ()

steady yellow robe; has an elder berry aroma, cooked pear in discreet offer accompanying it, vanilla with sweetness, roasted nuts on the nose. The palate is guarded, careful, with a gradual gain in depth into a fleshy finale. There is one flash of liberated fruit – pear, apricot, classic - at its centre. It’s one of the restrained school of Condrieus, deliberately managed around the heat of the summer – it works OK, but could flow more as one, as a true ensemble. The length is secure, though, with a finish on a touch of grainy grip. 13.5°. 2022-23 Feb 2019

2015

steady yellow robe. The nose has quiet style, leads on greengage plum jam, with a note of apricot behind. It’s curvy and ripe, but manages to float in the air. The palate bears cosy, tucked up gras with a need to be released, so decanting will be an asset. It plays it safe, is more “pale”, low-key, New Wave than some of the leading wines this year. To 2019 Oct 2016

2014

yellow robe with a rich aspect. The nose is also rich, obviously so, with glazed brown sugar, crème brûlée, apricot airs, a sense of pineapple chunks, also vanilla form the oak. The palate starts broadly, is based on cooked pear with a little stone fruit, musky spicing and the grip of orange marmalade. It lacks the crystalline qualities of the front rank 2014s, is a bit obvious, low on nuance, a static style of Condrieu. It may turn exotic and jungly fruited by 2017. It drifts on the finish, shows vanilla pod there. 13°. To 2019  Dec 2015

2013

yellow robe, legs. The bouquet is out there, immediately abundant, mixes pear fruit, crème patisserie, vanilla, has a pretty airborne, floating style. The palate is more buzzy than the nose, is based mostly on citrus fruit, and shows oak-toast, ending on a grippy note of tannin. The citrus fruit is very direct, and there is almost a void after the attack. This can serve for the aperitif. It doesn’t run consistently through the palate, though; it has acidity, and glows with a note of burn on the finish. It may shift together more by 2016: it is given the benefit of the doubt. 13°. 2019-20  Feb 2015

2012

healthy, full yellow, rich aspect to the robe. Has a subdued vanilla aroma, all very controlled and pretty elegant, not flamboyant. A pear-tangerine fruit mix gives it agreeable cut, and it persists with discretion. There is a subdued note of brioche, pear skin airs, and it flirts with acetate. The palate is rich on the attack, right away delivers a true Viognier fullness, fat both of texture and taste. It tones down, quietens on the finish, which could be more ample, sustained, supply more brio. A wee bit stiff. This aims for cut more than ample styling. It drifts, tapers in the late stages, so ends up doing a simple, more aperitif job. 13°. 2017-18  Oct 2013

2011

medium yellow; the nose floats gracefully, circulates well, mixes mango and pineapple, a scoop of banana with vanilla and flowers also present. The palate is wrapped up, not obvious today. It holds genuine gras richness, is textured from that, comes with a discreet oiliness. The finale reflects apricot, dried fruits, has sound depth. Carefully made, fine acidity, stylish wine with a few cards up its sleeve still. Good potential. Can do the aperitif. 13.5°. 2016-17  Nov 2012