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The Wines

100% Syrah, 70% from sanded granite soils on Bassenon (late 1980s, early 2000s, rented vines), 25% from schist soils on Rozier, 5% from sanded granite soils on Maison Rouge (late 1980s, rented vines), destemmed, 3 week steel vat vinification of plot harvests apart, wild yeasts, pumping overs, Bassenon raised 75% new, 25% 1-year 228-litre casks 12-13 months, Rozier & Maison Rouge raised earthenware jugs12-13 months, assembled 1 month before bottling, unfined, filtered, 4,650 b

2018

dark robe; notes of black olives, black cherry, tapenade, licorice come through in a bouquet that gives a sturdy opening, also red meat droplets. Iron runs though the palate, with a good stream of black fruits, good quality, pure juice that sustains well, into its firm close, tannins there. It show rigour on the finish – I like that, which Rozier gives it, and a good burst of late juice. It’s not vintage marked. “Bassenon doesn’t go past 13° to 13.5°, even though it’s full South facing,” Julien Pilon. From mid-2022. 2041-43 Dec 2019

2015 ()

(cask) full, dark red colour. The nose delivers classic Côte-Rôtie muskiness, florality in with its soaked, plump airs of black fruits. It’s immediately engaging. The palate serves cooked plums with spicing, and an obvious take on the vintage, all up front. There is some grainy tannin in with the violets and Pez sweets on the finish. It’s a bit flashy, doesn’t have the stature of the best 2015s, but is enjoyable. From spring 2018. 2026-27 Oct 2016

2012

fair red robe, legs visible. The nose is compact, almost narrowly channelled, has a toffee-oak, dark berry jam, garden red berries air, and a very light note of violets and springtime bluebells. The palate is tight, restricted, slightly on the upright, nearly lean side. It needs to air – it requires encouragement to come out on parade, being withdrawn now. It holds direct red berry, raspberry fruit with a smoky, tarry tang, is a medium-weight, new school, modern Côte-Rôtie, but does keep going to the line. It is fragrant but light, a bit on the spare, economical side. The oak actually lends an ounce or two of extra body. 12.5°. 2023-24  Feb 2015