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The Wines

includes 100-year Syrah, from Saint-Épine hillside at St-Jean-de-Muzols, part of Saint-Joseph appellation, whole bunch fermentation, gradual progressive crushing, 20-25 day fermentation and maceration at low temperature in stainless steel or fibre glass vats, manual cap punchings 1 every 2 days until twice daily, aged 4-5 year oak 10-12 months, unfined, unfiltered, under 25 mg/litre sulphur dioxide applied 3-4 weeks before bottling, 3-6,000 b

2019

(casks, bottling autumn 2020) red colour; rocky, smoke, graphite feature with reserve on the nose – this is waiting to give more. The palate is close-knit, is rocky wine, derived from the fissures of the granite, all very well tuned. It lengthens on freshness. It’s very good, holds much promise, is STGT wine with a little rose note on the finish. 2033-35 Feb 2020

2018

(casks) dark red; mulberry/raspberry combine on the nose in a good, open delivery, has a sweet curve to it. There are southern, black olives and what approaches herbes de Provence notes that I am associating with the sun-filled 2018 vintage. The palate has a delicate debut, holds fine red fruits, a good stream of tannin, some light grain crunch on the close. Its strength creeps up on you – there’s definite mass here. Wait: it will unfurl well. The palate is more generous, southern, than that of the Cisseux St Jo 2018. 2034-36 Feb 2019

2011 ()

(casks, bottling towards autumn 2012) some dark tints in its purple robe. Has a cassis, small berries air that also involves its lees and flowers, a note of marzipan is present as well. Direct, springy red fruit leads the palate – raspberry. There are pebbly little tannins, a light grain, and these end on a licorice, low-key black stone fruit note. This will be a slow gainer over time. From spring 2014. 2020-21. Only 3,000 b this year. March 2012

2010

(1990 Clos Vougeot cask, sugars done, malo not quite finished) bright, good purple tone. The nose is a mix of silken airs and live ones – there are some damp traces and also leather in its black berry. The palate has a peppery start, its texture is fine, and it moves along well. Its berry flavour is beau, tight, and it widens at the end. Good balance, good potential. “I find the 2009 has more matter than the 2010,” Hervé Souhaut. 2016-17 Nov 2010

2009 ()

full, beckoning red. Quietly brewed aroma with suave fruit in it, and once more here I find a saline note, a sea breeze. The lead fruit aroma is red or black cherry. The palate has an assembly of tannin and dark fruit, so the first effect is smoky and grainy, then comes the dark fruit. Not really on the go now – it needs a winter or two, is not at all up and running. Its elements come at you from different angles, while its tannins are grainy, a bit demanding. From mid-2013, no hurry. It resembles a 2005 for me. Can do well. 2020-22 Nov 2010

2003 ()

(cask) floral, then baked, herbal, sweet fruit aroma. Baked grapes, dates almost in style. Tannins push forward. Drink 2005-07. May risk drying out.

2001 ()

stinky, reduced nose - raspberry, some jam, once aired. Rounded black berry fruit/tannins. Compact texture, fruit is OK. Needs decanting. 2005 on. 2012-14