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The Wines

1950s Syrah from Les Côtes Derrière at Mauves, destemmed, 3 week vinification, wild yeasts, pumping overs, cap punching, aged 4-8 year 600-litre, 400 and 228-litre (14% of these new) oak casks 18 months, 3,000 b

2017

dark red; brewed red fruits, blackberry lozenges show on the nose, with a hint of flowers, violets. This is dark on the palate, comes with tar notes, prune fruit, firm filling, ends exerted. The nose is more appealing than the palate, though the latter has foundation. From late-2020. 14°. €16. 2026-27 Dec 2019

2010

quite a full red; has a prune with blackberry aroma, a mineral, steel tint in it, and a light note of mocha. The palate is ripely textured by its gras, holds an attractive, sweet black berry and a tar note near the finish. It is more robust and longer than the classic wine. Its mulberry-raspberry fruit is tasty, has slight spicing with it. An honest, country wine for hearty foods – “game, red meat or a chocolate dessert,” G Courbis. The palate is centred on a prune flavour, and its ripeness resembles dates. The aftertaste is charry. A slight time warp here. The wines just need a bit of extra polish, as they always have. Decant this. 13°. 2017-18  Nov 2012