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The Wines

Viognier (1989-1992) from 4.5 ha on Cret de Monrond site at Limony, most southerly site of Condrieu, firm granite, shallow soils, fermented, raised 80% tronconic oak vat, 20% 2-3 year 228 litre oak casks 9 months, (before late 2010s was 0-10% new, 90-100% 1-2-3 year 228-litre oak casks 10 months), lees stirred, malo completed, filtered, 14-16,000 b

2018

the nose is beefy, weighted, with prominent oak, a real plunge of depth, grilling, with musky, grapey airs, lemon curd.  The palate is rich and rolling, a bit of time warp in its fatness, its obvious depth. It’s not quite sipping only wine, but not far from that. The style is for drinking with sauced dishes à table. It’s in the here and now, is very layered. The finish gives a little late control, but the overall impression is of weight. 14°. 2024-25 Dec 2019

2016 ()

yellow robe with some full glints in it. The bouquet has scale, isn’t fully out yet, and suggests a wine that can live and evolve over time. There’s a compote of white fruits aroma, stewed fruits, plum, banana in the mix. It has a rather southern oiliness. The palate provides texture, a glycerol lining that sets it up well for monkfish, sauced turbot, lobster. It’s a little tucked up at present, and should be considered as a wine to revert to around 2020, decanting it and setting up a good table alongside. This is stylish, well nuanced Condrieu. 13.5°. 2024-25 Sept 2018

2015

firm yellow robe. The nose is broad, laden with fat, buttery airs, compote of white fruits with a white raisin ripeness. The palate sequels well from the nose, bringing easy gras and smooth textures, the flavour seasoned by nectarine, greengage fruits. It keeps going well, has some style, ends on citrus nudges. This is enjoyable, nourishing and true. 14°. 16,000 b. 2020-21 Oct 2016

2014

yellow robe, quite full. The bouquet expresses exotic, tropical fruits, greengage plum and lime, with a ginger snap in the air, some oak. This attacks with a direct, cooked citrus approach, has a line of tannin on the late stages. This is a little plain, lacking in deft detail. 13.5°. €25 at the cellars. To 2018 Oct 2015 

2013 ()

pale yellow robe. I find the nose restricted after bottling in Sept 2014; there is a small hum of pear fruit, apricot, some freshness in it. The palate is elegant, round, bears white fruits led by peach. The finish is fresh, refined, the length tender. Decant this. 13°. “I would drink this as an aperitif. It can live four to five years,” Louis Chèze. To 2019.  March 2015

2009

(3 year oak cask, sugars finished, malo not yet) delicate yellow; leesy, but sweet notes, pineapple-oak ensemble on the nose, behind lie pear, pear drop, flowers. Nice fat on the palate – it runs elegantly also. A low acidity, aromatic aftertaste on this. Nice promise. To 2014. Nov 2009

2008 ()

comfortable yellow robe; the nose is cautious, enclosed now, but suggests depth, has a baked nature. The palate possesses woven, mature fruit with brown sugar touches, apricot and barley sugar. It is somewhat slight towards the finish, where it tightens. There is a Roussanne-like note on the end, a salted grip there. “It has closed since its August 2009 bottling,” Louis Chèze. €23 for this. 14°. To 2014 Nov 2009

2005

bright yellow. There is a little oak in an alert bouquet, with a pear fruit, pear skin underlay. Good flow on the palate – with a ripe pear taste, and toasting from the oak. Solid, quite firm end, has the potential to deliver more, is well-knit. Honey on the aftertaste. Is bonny now, has a structured style. Best with food. 14°. To 2009. Nov 2006

2004

spiced, buttered nose, shows dried fruits rather than floral character, carries it off with style. Exotic fruits on start, the wine holds sound acidity, oak present on finish. Can run on, since it is genuinely rich, shows potential for more. March 2005

2003

big, round, scaled-up bouquet, tangerine aroma. A lot of "body" on the palate, but also has a taut, pineapple flavour. Richness appears on aftertaste. The oak is threaded all through the wine. Now to 2007. March 2005

2001

well-defined pear aroma, full. Stewed pear, elegant wine, nice style, fair length.

2000

tropical fruits/oak, exotic nose; pear start, then ripe guava fruit. Fair juice, a fat vintage. Touch dry end.