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The Wines

some 1970s Syrah, also 1990s, from 15 plots, led by Combe, Les Saveux, Sauman, Mazards, Les Eygas, Champelrose, Patou, 80% destemmed, 15-18 day fermentation, pumping overs, cap punching, malo in cask, aged 4-year 228-litre oak casks 12-14 months, unfined, filtered, 12-15,000 b

2017 ()

dark robe, matt tones. The nose has strength but is reserved post bottling. There’s a wall of black fruit, a firm jam aroma. The palate is savoury, ripe, comes with rolling, rather thick matter that spins along in a steady way, the extended finish firm, a touch tough, with prune and chocolate and peppery flavours there. Its closed nature means it’s hard to get at today, but it will emerge as a solid, cool Cornas. Decanting advised. It is bottled already. 13.5°. From 2021. 2036-38 Dec 2018

2016

(casks) the robe has a dark intensity purple with mainly black. The bouquet has a swirl of suave, black cherry fruit, a lucid tone to it, hints of mint sauce. The palate is careful, modern, holds plump content, blackberries and blueberries prominent. The oak gives it a layer of toffee sweetness, but the fruit is never subdued by that – it is live and expressive, well-tuned. This has style, and will start to show well from 2020. 13.5°. 2031-34 Nov 2017

2014

dark robe. Blackberry coulis, fleshy style bouquet – it is a little reserved, and can give more. The attack is soft, comes with quite cool blueberry fruit at its heart. The tannins are fine – this is precise Cornas with decent length. It gives lightweight, modern, easy drinking. Bottled 15 Nov 2015. €25. 14,000 b. 2022-23  Dec 2015

2013 ()

(casks) dark, full robe. Blackberry liqueur aroma along with bacon, slight high tone present in a nose that has gamey, reductive notes – this is modern, quite cellar-led in style. The palate has a coated debut, holds ripe black fruit with good heart, true depth, shows an appealing sweet richness as it ends. This is plump, fat Cornas that will please. It develops finesse as it ends, fine juice droplets. The fruit really carries well here, the length good and persistent. Decant it. From mid-2017. 2028-30  GB £138/6 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com GB £133/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com  Jan 2015

2012

(casks) dark colour; the bouquet is wrapped up, but under the reserve lies a good heart of dark fruiting. It has stylish potential to show clear, rich fruit, flowers – there are ripples of savoury fruit here. The palate presents engaging, enjoyable, ace fruit, an open book roll of sweet-noted liqueur black fruit. It lines up its tannins well – they have sheen and life. There is very good late palate continuity and running fruit, long, stylish content. Max pleasure to be had. Drink this with beef or lamb rather than game due to its clean lines. Good balance, generous, uncomplicated pleasure. From late 2015. 2026-27  Nov 2013

2010 ()

dark red; smoky, prolonged black fruit air with a drift of herbs underneath, gives a sense of warm slopes and soil. Dark fruit with carry and rolling insistence lines the palate. There are grainy later moments, with cut, and it lengthens discreetly, never a false step. Fine wine. From mid-2014. 13.5°. 2024-26 Feb 2012

2009 ()

(casks) dark, full robe. Sweaty, bit stinky nose, sulphurous from its raising, but there is ample black berry fruit within. Round and fleshy fruit debut – a ball of flavour, sweet notes in it. It never strays far from that ball of roundness and ripeness. I like its persistence and slow infusion of tannin, has plenty going for it. Good texture and fruit – this will sing. From 2012. Sound price at €21 at the cellar. 2022-24 Nov 2010

2008 ()

quite a full red; raspberry, softly scented nose, vanilla pod – is rather sweet. The palate is supple, but the delivery of the black fruit is a wee bit flat, then it picks up towards the finish, takes on more thrust and mineral chew. The aftertaste resembles chocolate and grainy raisin. Bit droopy – suggest it may be more together around mid-2011, and has also just been bottled. 13.5°. 2016-18 Dec 2009

2007 ()

black, purple robe; has curved black fruits aroma, comes with spice, forest airs, is also a mix of earthy and floral. The palate leads with violet, squeezy brambleberries – this has a lush texture, the shape of the hammock, but also well-founded tannin within. It drinks now, but as there is a late display of tannin and chewiness, expect it to close in the next year. The fruit is perky, ends on a red fruit liqueur note. 2017-19 Dec 2008

2006

bright, pretty complete robe; there is a full burst of blackberry fruit on the nose, that is wide, well-founded, live and agile. The palate starts with bonny fruit, showing black berries, before it tightens and a clamp of tannin comes along, with a little oak. Has a clear-cut, mineral black-fruit/licorice finale. From 2010, but the fruit is bright and persistent and the wine can be drunk on that instant pleasure level through 2008. Beau vin in the making. 2018-20 Jan 2008 Previously Dec 2007 *** quite dark and bright robe with legs down the glass. Sweet-toned black fruit, pliant aroma – mulled berries. Black fruit and violet taste to start, then tannins that are ripe. It is quite wide; its tannins need 18 months. The fruit is a little stewed, so susceptible to a heated room. Licorice in the aftertaste from the tannins. 2016-18 Dec 2007

2005 ()

dark purple robe; high, rather funky aroma here – full black berries at its heart. Note – has been bottle just one week. Brewed fruit with sleek, ripe tannins alongside start the palate. Has an oily, scented texture. Is rich without excess and finishes clearly. Esp from mid-2008, but may tighten given the vintage character. 2018-20 Dec 2006

2002

compact, suave berried aroma. Evident probing blackberry fruit, light tar, minted end. Some richness, though tannins are quite tough right now. Length OK. More variety from 2007. 2014-15 Previously (casks) *(*) violet alongside stewed fruits aroma, some charm. Full, fruit flows along. Broad, ripe tannin finale, raspberry aftertaste. Lasts OK. Touch overdone, not sure. 2007 on. 2016-19

2001 ()

very berried, meaty aroma; ripe fruit, a meaty, full wine, has sap, richness. Live, peppered. Promising. 2007 on. 2018-19