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The Wines

from southern zone at Glun (1.4 ha), Tournon (1 ha), Mauves (0.25 ha), oldest Syrah 1920 on Peygros at Tournon, and 1990s Syrah, aged 4-6 year 228-litre oak casks 12-14 months, can be fined, filtered, silly heavy bottle, 12,000 b

2017

dark robe; the bouquet has a sturdy depth, gives notes of beef stock, dark berry fruits, hasn’t yet hits its stride. There’s a hint of reduction. The palate is wholesome, a bundle of wavy black fruits with oaking alongside, is discreetly vigorous, and persists with good intent, building as it goes. The oak needs another 18 months, so leave until mid-2020 for that, though it will be drunk before then. Decanting advised. It is bottled already. 13°. 2029-31 Dec 2018

2016

(casks) dark red robe. The nose has a well rounded aroma led by mulberry and blackberry, hedge row fruits. There is a spark of smokiness. The palate holds a mild gras richness that prolongs steadily, taking on rocky, pumice stone style tannins as it ends, with the last gasp one of mineral rather than fruit. The thick but limited juice for now has a raspberry flavour. This has a raw make-up for now, rides a rugged race along its granite shelves, so allow time, until late-2019. It will get together, and be a structured, serious style of St Joseph, its mineral texture in tune with lamb dishes, veal, for example. 13°. 2027-29 Nov 2017

2014

shiny dark robe. There are drifts of violets and blackberry in a tender and appealing bouquet, gives a nice little fruit thrust, with some licorice. The palate is supple, a bit light, drinks well now. The tannins are very soft. This is overtly modern. There is a hint of reduction and game in the wine, so decant it. Bottled 15 Nov 2015. 12,000 b. €18. To 2020  Dec 2015

2013 ()

dark robe, good shine. The nose is reductive, so decant this; it bears a steady, aromatic softness below, the dark berry fruit combining with a pleasing oiliness. This moves well along the palate, has a savoury, succulent side and a nice degree of freshness. Stylish, unfussy St Jo, good now, is w.o.w. for la table, the drinking effortless and rounded. Sausages, veal chops in rosemary will be very good with it. It delivers a winning little garrigue, mixed herbes de Provence, moment on the finish, a note of grainy tannin there. 2020-21  GB £102/6 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com Jan 2015

2012

dark, black-tinted robe. Ready, forward, nicely chiselled black fruits aroma that comes rushing out – it is free and upbeat, off we go; the nose has good style and a nice little spark in it. The palate gives a compact picture: fluid black fruit rolls through it, with a close-knit tannic overcoat, and it ends as one. Promising wine that can be good and drinkable. Serve in a large glass and enjoy this expressive, enjoyable drink. 2020-21  Nov 2013

2010

dark robe - nice oily dark red. Gives an intense air of blackberry, whack! Comes with light smoky notes, dark tea – a very good entrance. The palate offers engaging fruit, with grain and light touch powder tannins. There is a classy stroll along the palate, with depth and poise in the fruit, and a mineral reserve. Perfect for N European palates. Bottled Dec 2011. 13°. 2020-21 Feb 2012

2009

thorough, dark robe. Dense, black-fruited nose which I find promising; it shows a solid ripeness, offers an oily black fruits appeal, is not yet fully firing. Oak is present. Muscular style fruit which clamps firmly on the palate, with oak in play at the end. There is good content, so it needs to fuse. The finish is an issue – can the oak and the baked tannins soften? It is a bit mechanical now, still on the effects of its raising. The aftertaste is tarry, oaked. Wait. From 2013. 2019-21 Nov 2010

2008

red, bit of purple, fairly deep robe; curved aroma that reflects blackberry jam – it is speckled with licorice that lends a degree of crispness. The palate holds soft, benign blackberry fruit on the attack – it drinks easily, is gummy and textured. It gets along without offering snap or fireworks. There is enough tannin to support the finish, with a licorice taste there. Nice Syrah black fruits are identifiable here. 13°. 2014-15 Dec 2009

2007 ()

dark, bright robe; has a supple black fruits aroma, comes with curve and roundness – has a welcoming sweetness, is sunny. The palate is also friendly, delivering pliant black fruit with a late line of tannin. It runs very consecutively, with herbal and floral touches on the aftertaste. Beau vin in the making here. w.o.w. wine. From mid-late 2009. 2014-15 Dec 2008

2006 ()

robust, blackberry robe; the nose bears black fruit with a hint of earthiness, with the backdrop therefore grounded. The palate carries cool, loose-limbed fruit – it leaves the starting gate well and runs freely. A bonny wine with energy, there is some violet in the taste and a slightly stewed effect. The length is sound, with some variety and mystery that elevates it past a simple quaffing wine. Good connection between bouquet and palate here, this is a w.o.w. wine. 2012-13 Sept 2008, La Bonne Soupe, W55 St, New York, US$60 Previously Dec 2007 *** quite a dark robe; modern style nose – with mulled berry and a little undertow of earthiness. Clear, bright blackberry fruit on the attack – delivers that with an easy flow. Ends on polished tannin. Is a bit commercial, “spotless”, but good. The late tannins are soft. Good esp for early drinking. To 2012. Dec 2007

2005

dark robe; sappy, jam style aroma of black berry, is generous, if a little reduced – the fruit will be crisper if the reduction wears off. Rich-toned attack, supple and comfortable in mid-palate. The length is good – has a round, quite rich finale. Ripe, gourmand wine with plenty of charm in its future locker. From 2008, and double decant to ensure low reduction. 2015-16 Nov 2006

2004 ()

supple, friendly jam style aroma. A little animal alongside the red garden fruits. Simple, softly-textured fruit with a likeable sweetness. Unhurried winemaking on show here. Length is sound, this is good country wine. Some late burn on the aftertaste. STGT wine, a sound reflection of the southern St Jo zone's granite. To 2011-12. April 2006

2003

full, quite potent bouquet, a prune/red berry mix. Macerated fruit pastilles taste, lozenges style. Some mineral, restraint on finish, with heat. Drink from 2007 forward. 2013-15. Dec 2004

2002

fruit-forward wine; light pepper/berry nose. Stylish, clear fruit, good length. Nice round touch to it, some late tannin. 2008.

2001

sunny bouquet, black fruit quite warm. Broad, decent flesh. Hint of tightening at end. Some reduction. 2007-09